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Samosas from Queen Vic.: ChroniclePigs have flown, Houston: Restaurants in the farflung exurbs of Tomball and Alvin have swaggered right onto my list of the 2010’s best new restaurants. Nobody’s more surprised (or delighted) by that than I am.
And what a year it has been for South American start-ups: Two such restaurants have earned firm places on the list, and two more — too new to be fully and fairly evaluated yet — are serious contenders for the final spots on my traditional roster of 10.
That’s great news and a natural fit for the local dining scene. Houston palates have long looked south, to Mexico and now beyond, for culinary thrills. The year’s spate of South American openings is a happy indication that there is life beyond our recent rodizio glut — and that the ground cultivated in previous decades by the Cordúa brothers (of Churrasco’s and Americas) and Rafael Galindo (of Red Onion fame) is finally bearing a bumper crop.
Last year at this time, I was so swamped by the late, unprecedented burst of high-profile openings that I had trouble winnowing my list down to 10. This year I’m having the opposite problem. Until October, I was worried that I might not be able to come up with even eight restaurants I felt confident belonged on my list. But I did, and here they are.
• Bootsie’s Heritage Cafe 112 Commerce, Tomball. 281-516-9699.
Chef Randy Rucker’s outpost opened in the spring as a neighborhood joint serving updated versions of folksy Gulf Coast standards. But over the course of the year it has evolved into a restaurant that serves intensely local and seasonal fare that can hold its own with the best in America, and that would do many an international Michelin two- or three-star proud. In September, I was wowed by a platter of feisty house-made charcuterie and some brilliant riffs on fresh Gulf mackerel: a supple crudo with pickled foraged 
elderberries; the meaty grilled head with charred lime; a soft egg scramble with the roe and liver. The showstopper was a tower of hay-smoked mackerel with pan-singed okra and tomatoes right off the restaurant’s nearby farm. For the best sampling of what Rucker and his gifted young team can do, go for the absurdly reasonable $35 five-course Third Coast tasting menus, or reserve a place at one of the more elaborate multicourse Heritage Dinners that are held most Tuesday nights. Seize the moment, because Rucker is constitutionally incapable of holding still for long (it’s his gift and his curse, inseparably), so you never quite know what Bootsie’s will be next week -- or next spring, when the chef plans to open his ambitious tasting-menu restaurant, Connate, in a nearby complex of galvanized sheds. Until then, Bootsie’s will be home to some of the most thrilling and ambitious food in Texas.
• Latin Bites Cafe
1302 Nance, 713- 229-8369.
This chic-on-a-shoestring BYOB is a cool Peruvian breeze in the old warehouse district just northeast of downtown. The flavors wrought by chef Roberto Castre are as clean and vivid as his gorgeous plating: ceviches singing with variously hued Peruvian chiles; masa-dough cakelets called arepitas topped with braised meats; chicha morada beverage, house-brewed of purple maize, that’s a deep, mysterious purple in its icy glass pitcher. Don’t miss the elegant lamb and cilantro stew, or the cliché-busting tiramisu laced with pisco (a Peruvian spirit) and lucuma (a tropical fruit). For the moderate price, this may be the most refined food in town.
• Melange CrÊperie SW corner of Westheimer and Taft, 713-291-9933.
This was the year of the food truck in Houston, where the late-breaking national fad has been making up for lost time. The king of our new breed of mobile food vendors, though — one “Buffalo Sean” Carroll — doesn’t even operate a truck or a trailer, but rather a modest two-burner cart parked on a near-town corner. There Carroll stages a one-man show so dazzling his acolytes are not deterred by heat, cold, rain or a lack of seating. Who needs conventional comforts when virtuouso crêpe-making skills are on such entertaining display, along with a host whose cheerful line of patter fosters an instant social scene? Carroll is less chef than wildly gifted home cook who has found the grassroots means to bring his ideas to a grateful public. His daily specials knit up Houston’s disparate culinary strands in exciting ways: a crisped, lacy pancake might clasp a dizzying subtropical ooze of bananas and key-lime curd, or lush avocados punctuated by tart, herbal tabouli. And his palak paneer crepe, folded around fragrantly spiced local spinach and the softest rectangles of locally made Pola farmers’ cheese, are the stuff of genius. Look for him on Westheimer and Taft 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Monday; 10 a.m. -2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. On Wednesdays he is at the City Hall Farmers Market from 10 a.m.- 2 p.m. Bring cash. Crepes are $5-$6.
• Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen 2712 Richmond, 713-533-0022.
The ingenious menu at this contemporary take on an Anglo-Indian pub is as much fun as the bold, Texas-friendly flavors. Glamorous chef and co-owner Shiva Patel scatters bubbly “Bullet Naan” with bacon, garlic and serrano chiles, wraps Scotch eggs in lamb keema for the deep-fry, and tosses paneer with cashews and vibrant three-chile curry. Even her burgers, of intricately spiced lamb on naan buns, jump with unexpected tastes. Add such interesting specials as moist tandoori branzino and a really smart beverage program (lots of great craft beers on tap, along with thoughtful wines and cocktails) and you’ve got the very model of a counterintuitive Texas gastropub. A warm, handsome neighborhood feel is made even better by an inviting dining terrace.
• Gatlins BBQ 1221 W. 19th, 713-869-4227. 
Brisket.: Chronicle
For those who have longed for a purveyor of distinguished brisket and ribs inside the Loop, I give you the friendly little Gatlin’s, a mom-pop-and-son spot that achieves a remarkable degree of consistence with its ’cue. Ask for the moist, charry fatty-side brisket — piled high on a sandwich or hand-chopped into a big ol’ baked potato — and be prepared to swoon with primal beef pleasure. So smoky and savory is this brisket that you’ll scarcely need more than a dab of Gatlin’s distinctive tart-sweet sauce, a tiny jolt of which goes a long way. Fine pork ribs come in barky-enough spare rib and diminutive baby-back form; and the sausages (including a spicy house-made grind) are good, too. Dirty rice, homey potato salad and slaw and drop-dead peach cobbler are all part of the church-supper vibe. Can’t find a table in this trim, tiny cottage? Eat at a picnic table on the covered porch.
• The Burger Guys 12225 Westheimer, 281-497-4897.
The three young chefs at this very modern burger joint have gone artisanal in a big way, hand-forming their patties from Texas-raised Akaushi beef and making every last condiment, pickle, relish and ice-cream flavor from scratch. The results can be spectacular, from the duck-fat French fries to the oozy lushness of the Houston burger, which involves an insidious onion-bacon jam, cheddar cheese, and a swift kick of bread-and-butter-pickled jalapenos. Want exotic? Try the Thai-skewed Phuket with green papaya, a layer of red-chilified bean sauce, and a gloss of lime-tamarind dressing. Don’t cry uncle before dessert — a thick, satiny half or whole shake of such hand-spun flavors as Ten-Cup Chocolate, Bananas Foster or Lemon Icebox Pie.
• The Barbed Rose
113 East Sealy, Alvin, 281-585-2272.
This low-slung roadhouse near the railway station in the heart of old-town Alvin styles itself as a steak and seafood restaurant. But that conservative formula is flouted by the soulful cooking that goes on in this surprisingly modern kitchen: the profound chicken and sausage gumbo; the quail with crawfish stuffing; the crawfish and escargot pot pie. And how about a perfectly dewy slab of crisp-skinned redfish with a discreet ribbon of piquillo-pepper beurre blanc on the side? That, too. Try a Blanc du bois white wine by the glass, from local Haak Vineyards, at the bar; or order a fine custom burger next door at the open-air Burger Bar. Alvin never tasted so good.
• Samba Grille 530 Texas, 713-343-1180. 
Chronicle
Yes, it’s another rodizio restaurant in a town that has scads of them. But handsome downtown Samba has much more to offer than the usual parade of rotisserie-grilled meats on skewers. As in superb empanadas, suave soups, even appealing sandwiches and salads (including a wedge brightened up with Manchego cream)for the business-lunch crowd. The rodizio meats can be very good. But big, perfectly cooked shrimp with yuca and coconut rice in a shimmer of winy butter sauce hints at the kind of cooking that separates this newcomer from others of its genre. So does the intelligent wine list superintended by Marc Borel.
• My 9th and 10th spots?
Zelko Bistro might sneak in there, depending on a couple of other contenders: Tango & Malbec, the clunkily named Argentinian restaurant near the Galleria, which offers some unusual specialties and big, bright flavors; and, of all things, Piola, a pizza chain founded in Italy that flourished in South America, acquiring many Brazilian and Argentinian influences on its menus. Stay tuned for the upcoming reviews.
Can't really argue with any of the selections, though I have a pretty bad impression of the Barbed Rose after they scammed the CitySearch awards in September.
And here come the "Alvin and Tomball are not in Houston" comments. We get it. Some of you are too lazy to drive to experience everything the Houston area has to offer. Kiss off. Those restaurants are delicious and worthy of acknowledgment.
They may have made Houston list, but I am so glad they are on Allistair's list. Tomball doesn't have a lot of restaurants - I never knew about this one.
+1 on Rob's comment. I'll never experience the Barbed Rose based on the Citysearch Scam and the way they handled the whole fiasco.
Bootsie's and Latin Bites have quickly become my favorite restaurants this year, I'll drink eggnog to those choices any day!
Let's get this straight once and for all. THE BARBED ROSE DID NOT SCAM THE CITY SEARCH AWARDS. Sorta like the most recent election that the Republicans swept into office you might really think they just got more votes and won fair and square just like the conservatives did. Sorry that you do not see it that way but that is the truth.
OK. That was nice.
That's true. The Barbed Rose and supporters played by the rules, and in doing so exposed everyone to just how the process within the rules was open to manipulation. It was a ridiculously obvious, joe, and backfired as it both devalued the awards and left some people, myself included, with a poor first impression of the place even having never set foot in the place.
Joe,
We are talking about places to eat......not politics ! Your taste in food is as good as your political stance......it sucks !
http://www.htownchowdown.com/2010/09/citysearch-and-barbed-rose-how-to-s...
The Barbed Rose kicks butt!
I wouldn't trust anything CitySearch says about anything. But the Barbed Rose is wonderful and I'm glad it's here.
MANCUSO'S ITALIAN TABLE
Love this restaurant - one of my best new finds!!! Delicious and great service!
I prefer taco bell.
I prefer taco bell.
How 'bout HOT WOK IN WEBSTER. They are not in Houston, but It is the best!
I really love a little restaurant called Hollister Grill. The chef there impresses me each time I go and the staff is very accomodating. Has anyone else tried Hollister's, if so, what is your take?
Who cares is Barbed Rose staged promotions to get contest votes if the food is good? That should more of a knock on citysearch's credibility than on the Barbed Rose.
@ Bob - I've never been to taco bell but i've heard good things. What do they serve there?
As the owner of the Barbed Rose I will tell you that there was no staging of anything we won by a large majority clear and cut. These people attack my integrity and all I have to say is that We WON the blogger is upset because his client lost. It was fair one vote per IPO address there is no way to beat it. We appreciate the support from our loyal customers and the bottom line is apparently regardless of what they say we serve alot of love from our kitchen and it is unfortunate that some people want to take away what we strive to achieve.
Whatever, Joe. Just know that the inclusion of The Barbed Rose on Ms. Cook's year end list is more valuable than any awards determined by internet voting.
...nice grammar usage
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...and how 'bout a shout out to Clay's on Clay, west of Hwy 6
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that is all, have a nice day!
Joe Wed if you are truly the owner of Barbed Rose you have just lost me as a customer with this last post. Everyone knows that computer voting on the internet can be beat. I won't say that your food is not excellent (actually I have eaten there but would not say it is the best at any category). You need to stop and realize that the award is flawed and go forward. Until your last comment I wouldn't have a problem since I don't really trust Citysearch. But the big part is "all I have to say is that We WON" is not true and you really know the truth. It is not a criticism of your food or your integrity but the flawed system
Gatlin's bbq is incredible....the brisket is melt in your mouth delicious and the ribs practically fall off the bone...good stuff...small venue so be prepared to wait during prime times....
I agree with the fact that the food at The Barbed Rose is delicious! I personally voted for them during the City Search awards, but I never received an incentive for voting for them and I never offered an incentive to the dozens of friends that I asked to check it out and vote if they wanted to. Being from Alvin, I wanted to see them do great. I'm unsure what the problem is here. Is it that a restaurant rallied (if that's what you want to call it) for support or that somebody's ego is hurt because their restaurant didn't win? Either way, if the system is flawed why bad mouth and point fingers at The Barbed Rose? When I logged onto City Search to vote I was asked to vote based on my opinion. There were no criteria or requirements that prevented me from voting for my new favorite restaurant. The city search issue aside, I think that the opinion of Allison Cook trumps any that I've found on here so far and I agree with her..."Alvin never tasted so good".
~Jo
Of the Jo/Joes, you are by far the better advocate for the restaurant.
We were not impressed by the Burgers Guys. Food was OK, nothing to write home about. I had the burger with pickeled beets and an egg, and my spouse had the burger with the avacodo on it. Skinny fried onions were not great, fries cooked in duck fat were better.
Special shake of the day - Banana's Foster - average at best. Tasted like it had banana syrup in it, very artificial tasting.
Ventilation lacking, all 7 in our party reeked of grilled foods - the overhead grease trap and grill smoke removal equipment was either not functioning properly or was grossly undersized - this from an Engineer.
Again, food was OK, but for 68 bucks for 2 adults, 5 youngish children, mediocre food, poor ventilation, you can do better for burgers here in town, that is a certainty!!
TREYTEXAG comments on The Burger Guys are way off in my book ! The place rocks ! The burgers rock ! No other burgers like this in this entire city .. I will be going back ... Often !
Sorry, Barbed Rose "owner Joe", your posts will keep me away. Sheesh!
I was pretty sure Alison had lost it (does anyone really want to see pics of half eaten burgers!?); this joke of a list confirms it for me.
Thank you Alison for the work you do for the restaurant community, as well as Houston restaurant lovers.
Congrats to all the fine restaurants on the list and off that made it through this very tough year. The restaurant industry is about good food and good hospitality. I have seen this in the Barbed Rose, Bootsies and several others listed.
When it comes down to it, I only trust personal expereince to make my judgements on a restaurant. I use websites, blogs and critics to peek my interest.
Have a very Merry Christmas and a blessed New Year.
I went to Bootsie when I heard it was trying to be "local". It was one of the worst experiences in dining we have ever had. 45 minute wait just for a cup of black eyed pea soup, served quick grits and horrible waitress. The food was good, but not worth the wait and poor service. They tried to make it up by giving hubby and me free desert. But they were out of the one hubby requested and then never brought him anything. Waitress was too busy hanging out with her friends or family. Never again
How does a restaurant try to be "local"?
chow, you suck!!!!!1
How does a restaurant try to be "local"?
Queen Vic was a real disappointment. A nice concept, sure - but poor execution and lousy service shouldn't have earned it a spot on this list.
Alison, sometimes reading all the 'whiner' comments posted after these lists makes me wonder why you even do it. But, we're glad that you do. Your take on a paticular place does not always agree with mine but your take ia always well reasoned and enjoyable to read because it is so well articulated. We love you, Alison!
Intrepid: thanks. but I'm fine with the nay-sayers. I get my platform; and then they get theirs. Seems fair to me. It takes a thick skin to be a critic and I have managed to develop one over the years. Sure, sometimes the carps are irritating, but mostly they are sort of fun (or funny) and interesting.
Well, Alison, they do give us a laugh so often that I suppose they can be endured. You handle it with such grace and charm. That in itself is fun to watch, too.
I'm with Intrepid. Alison, I'm glad you don't let the b------s get you down.
Hey, Alison, this post is unrelated to your excellent top-8 list, but I wasn't sure where to send it. (What is the best way to send you tips about good restaurants?) I just put a review of La Rosa Blanca on 29-95. You're probably already familiar with the place, since it's close to others food places you like, such as Dairymaids. But I'll paste my review below, just in case you havn't stumbled on (into?) it. A friend who's a Mexican-American business owner in the Heights brought me there. Now I keep going back without him. It's a great place to practice your Spanglish, or Cantina Spanish as I like to call it ...
"I go to La Rosa Blanca regularly. It is a small place, frequented during the week by Mexican-American diners who work at nearby businesses, including the Farmers' Market. On the weekend, plenty of adherents keep the place hopping. I like their pancakes, though the quality of the tiny tubs of syrup leaves much to be desired. The service is friendly and genuine. Once in awhile, a server's English is not up to the rapid English of an Anglo diner, but there's always an English-speaking staffer who'll jump cheerfully into the breach. La Rosa Blanca is one of the few places I know that has a good chile relleno on the menu. Fortunately for us vegetarians, the cheese version is delicioso. Although the restaurant's address is on Airline, it's actually a couple of doors east of Airline, on Service Street, at the back end of the tiny, L-shaped strip center on Airline where El Bolillo used to be."
BShane: great, now I want a chile relleno SO badly. Seriously, though, the comments here are a great place to leave tips, since I am religious about reading them all. Is that the place that has the great fresh-squeezed orange juice? Right next to Canino's? I have a dim, happy memory of a breakfast there years ago, I think. Putting it on my list. Thanks!
Hi Alison, just wanted to drop a quick note thanking you for the superb food reporting you do throughout the year. Using your reviews as a springboard, I have expanded my culinary range and encountered some truly great people and places (The amazing folks at The Anvil, Steve and the gang at Burger Guys, and many more). I've really come to appreciate how diverse a city we have, and how lucky we are that despite the dismal odds of success, there are brave souls out there willing to take a risk and open a restaurant that highlights what they love. So congratulations to all the people who made the list, and to all those who strive every day to make Houston a great place to live and eat!
I truly enjoy reading about people arguing over each others opinions. Quite entertaining.....
I am glad to come across this list, I have been looking to start searching out a few new places to eat. As far as Citysearch is concerned, I do not trust their reviews and find that they will prune negative reviews, especially for advertising customers. Better off using YELP.
While I thank you for this list and will most likely try as many as I can I am disappointed Danton's Seafood was not mentioned. They serve the best seafood in town in my estimation.
Happy New Year
The burger guys is about 5 minutes from my apt, it's one of the best burger places i've ever been to, i feel lucky to live so close to it, on to the bbq, ya'll need to do some research on "World Famous BBQ" in katy, haven't had better bbq in my life.
Bootsies is currently only restaurant . com, $25 gift certificate for just $2. Can't wait to try this place!!
Just went to Queen Vic. Good spot and think with a few modifications you will soon see this raise to a great establishment in the ever competitive dining scene.
"Tango & Malbec, the clunkily named Argentinian restaurant near the Galleria," Clunkily indeed! I often think that restaurant owners get too high brow with their place names. This is the first impression, make it right, folks! Make it welcoming. Just a thought.
Alright fine, I'm checking out Burger Guys tonight. But, and DONT JUDGE ME, I have yet to find anything that tops Fuddruckers.
ok, judge me. I deserve to be judged for that.
Owner of Samba Grill is super nice - congrats to them for making the list!
Walt: I'm fond of Danton's, too, but it's been around for a couple of years now, so it's not really eligible for a "best new restaurants of 2010 list."
Bulletin: modest little Casablanca Couscous and Grill on Richmond, near the Galleria, is making a late power-drive for the 2010 list. The place is strictly no-frills, with glary lighting and no liquor license or BYOB option. It's manned by a lone waiter. But the genial owner & his sole cook produce delicious Moroccan home-cooking. So far I'm two for two there.
Bulletin: modest little Casablanca Couscous and Grill on Richmond, near the Galleria, is making a late power-drive for the 2010 list. The place is strictly no-frills, with glary lighting and no liquor license or BYOB option. It's manned by a lone waiter. But the genial owner & his sole cook produce delicious Moroccan home-cooking. So far I'm two for two there.
I tried Latin Bites Cafe for the first time last night...and it was truly superb! What a little hidden gem turning out some of the best food I've had in Houston in a while. I cannot wait to go back!
Always spectacular reviews, and you do always handle criticism with such grace...I don't know how you do it!
Thank you, Alison!
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