Editor's note: Sugarcane's grand opening is tonight, June 9, 6-9 p.m. The review below was based on the first day the doors were open last month.

Washington Ave. Buzz, left, and the Scarlet LetterSugarcane, Houston's eco-iest cocktail bar, held its soft opening Thursday night. We scurried there after work to sample its wares before things had the potential to get crazy.

Let me get two things out of the way: first, I understand that it was their opening night; hell, we were there only 40 minutes after they opened for the very first time. So I won't be an ass about the bartenders having to check the recipes after pouring every ingredient or the music system on the fritz. Second, I am generally suspicious of anything that proclaims too loudly they are green, as it is sometimes a sign of green-washing. Want to be really green? Stop drinking! The production and transport of alcohol is inefficient and, if you want to be real about it, a waste of resources just for passing time in a jovial manner.

Surgarcane was not long ago a wine bar called the Corkscrew. Every wine bar should dream of dying and becoming a cocktail bar. The room is comfortable, but not exceedingly so. There's an average-sized, horseshoe bar and tables scattered throughout. But I wasn't there to sit, I was there to sip.

The bar's focus is "ECOcktails," which will run you $9-$12 apiece. Oh, I see what you did there. I expect we will see COCKtails (a gay bar), cockTAILS (a furry bar) and cocKTAils (a Kansas Transit Authority bar) soon. The menu is divided into takes on classics (margarita, Manhattan, etc.) and original concoctions, both categories using eco-sensitve ingredients. Many feature house-made juices and locally made spirits, including Balcones Rumble Whiskey, Dripping Springs vodka, and Riazul tequila. I like that these are traditional cocktails crafted with Sugarcane's theme in mind.

Oh, they had local beer and wines in the back for those that are interested.

We sampled from the original cocktails. The Scarlet Letter (Maker's Mark, CRISM Organic Hibiscus Liqueur, St. Germain, lemon juice) was a bit sweet, but we found that bourbon and St. Germain are two tastes that go well together and worth exploring in other recipes. The Washington Ave. Buzz (TRU Organic Gin, THEIA Jasmine Liqueur, tonic, organic agave nectar, lemon juice) was dry and citrus-based. It wore out its welcome towards the end. I'd suggest a bit more agave nectar to sweeten the drink and to let the jasmine liqueur peep out from under the gin, tonic and lemon.
La Brae, left, and Fountain of Acai

While debating our next drink a bartender generously walked over a La Brae (TRU Organic Vodka, VeeV Acai Spirit, organic agave nectar, ginger and cranberry juice) and a Fountain of Acai (Railean Organic Rum, Veev Acai Spirit, coconut syrup and passion-fruit juice). The La Brae "smelled like the most delicious candle in the world," according to my drinking companion. It was dry and light, with a garnish of berries to sweeten things up. Since I've been in a tropical mood, the Fountain of Acai caught my attention. Unfortunately the drink shouted "COCONUT!" at the top of its lungs, as if the Professor needed more materials for his latest invention. I could taste a really nice drink in there around the last few sips, but that coconut syrup needs to be toned down by at least half.

Bottom line: Sugarcane's drinks are a little ham-fisted. They aren't bad, just heavy-handed toward one particular flavor that overwhelms the others in the drink. I hope that the mixologists tinker with the recipes to achieve some balance and refinement. Or not; perhaps this is what the trendy "eco-socialite" (their word, not mine) is looking for.

If you're a cocktail lover, I'd urge you to give Sugarcane a try. Depending on your level of cocktail snobbery you might have to suck some things up ("only one type of ice? Scandalmity!") At least it's a good place to experience the "green" ingredients you've seen appear on liquor-store shelves. I understand that Washington Ave. is the vipers' den of Houston douchery, but that shouldn't keep you from trying the place; it's comfortable and everyone was friendly. While none of the drinks blew me away, I could taste the potential in all of them. I plan to go back once they've had some time to work out some of the kinks and to try some of their more classic offerings.