Craig H. Hartley
Founding chef-owner Gerard Brach is back in charge at his charming north-side French spot, and the quietly assured food shows it. Service, too. Look to the left side of the menu, where daily specials dwell, to find memorable dishes: smartly accessorized fish, soulful variety meats, swell charcuterie plates. Special-order souffles run rings around the other desserts.
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