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Pork tamale and cheese enchilada as served at Soto's Cantina.: Alison Cook : 29-95
Houstonians consider Mexican food, devoured early and often, to be their sacred birthright. Here are some of their favorite places to get the good stuff, and the margaritas that go with it.
Irma’s
Distinguished mom-style plate lunches and breakfasts in a rambly downtown venue that’s more a folk-art environment than a dining room. Enchiladas in chile sauces made from scratch, pristine guacamole (possibly the best in the land) and fabled lemonade all contribute to the Irma’s experience. The James Beard Foundation has named Irma’s an America’s Classic. 22 N. Chenevert, 713-222-0767.
Villa Arcos It’s cash only, and it closes at 2 p.m. most days, 1 p.m. Sundays. But this modest family-run taco shack makes some of the finest breakfast tacos you’ll ever eat: from the gargantuan Bacon Super Taco to the sublime Velia’s Burrito. Try the weekend chicharrones tacos or the lunchtime Tex-Mex specials, especially the enchiladas. 3009 Navigation, 713-227-1743.
Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen
Rio Grande Valley gal Sylvia Casares turns out some of the best Tex-Mex in town at her two locations. Green-sauced chicken enchiladas or the “Lubbock” version swathed in chile con carne are highlights, along with avocado-spiked pico mole relish and the fabulous new mesquite-grilled cabrito al pastor. 6401 Woodway, 713-334-7295; 12637 Westheimer, 281-679-8300.
Enchiladas suizas as served at Hugos.: Steve Campbell : 29-95
Hugo's
Chef-owner Hugo Ortega, a native of Mexico City, brings both soul and fine-dining chops to this handsome restaurant. There’s a seriously good bar, a smart wine list and a menu that riffs skillfully on classic dishes from the interior of Mexico. Make your own tacos from the stunning octopus al carbon, grilled with jalapeño and garlic; or try the pan de cazon from coastal Campeche, a sort of soft, stacked tostada layered with chile arbol salsa
and chunks of smoky wood-grilled shark.
1600 Westheimer, 713-524-7744.
Teotihuacan
A rambunctious, down-to-earth Mexican joint where fantastic handmade corn tortillas and charcoaly platters of grilled beef fajitas, ribs (agujas) and shrimp pack them in. Flautas, green enchiladas and sopapillas are other good bets. 1511 Airline, 713-426-4420.
Spanish Village
A staple for old-school Tex-Mex for more than 50 years. The faithful congregate on a funky enclosed porch for serious cheese-and-onion enchiladas in red chile gravy and killer margaritas. (Try the frozen variety, full of splintery shards of frozen fresh lime juice, served in a Nick-and-Nora cocktail glass.) 4720 Almeda, 713-523-2861.
La Guadalupana Bakery and Café
This neat, family-run hole in the wall is beloved for its breakfasts (try the chilaquiles or huevos rancheros with cinnamon coffee) as well as carefully made lunch or dinner plates, from Veracruzana-style fish to green chicken enchiladas in a frisky tomatillo sauce. Chef-owner Tracito Diaz is a pastry whiz, so sample his flan or tres leches, too.
2109 Dunlavy, 713-522-2301.
A margarita as served at El Tiempo.: Dave Rossman photo
Original Ninfa’s on Navigation
This is the place where sizzling fajitas were introduced to the world by the late “Mama Ninfa” Laurenzo, and though her family no longer owns this location (or the many separately run chain locations around town), the original remains surprisingly true to her memory. The fajitas of beef skirt steak are among the best in town, the red and green salsas still sing. There’s lots of swell patio seating, plus an excellent margarita-and-tequila program by local mixologist Bobby Heugel. 2704 Navigation, 713-228-1175.
El Tiempo
The Laurenzo family, of onetime “Mama Ninfa” fame, runs these pricey but good cantinas specializing in epic charcoaled platters of meats and seafood, with all the
right trimmings. Lethal margaritas; approach with caution. 3130 Richmond, 713-807-1600;
5602 Washington, 713-681-3645; 1308 Montrose, 713-807-8996.
Soto’s Cantina
A family-run pearl of the northwest side, Soto’s turns out some of the best fajitas in town, along with very fine renditions of chiles rellenos, green enchiladas and fat Gulf shrimp glazed with
chipotle. Even the nachos and basic combination plates are painstakingly done, and the Texas vernacular cottage setting has a folk-arty charm. 10609 Grant Road, 281-955-5667.
Pico's Mex-Mex
Chef-owner Arnaldo Richards does an exceptionally fine job with dishes drawn from the Mexican interior. His top-shelf margaritas have long set a local standard. (Try “The Perfect,” served straight up in its own shaker.) So have his wonderful cochinta pibil (Yucatecan roast pork), Oaxacan tamales, table salsas, rich mole and nightly specials — like the softshell crab. 5941 Bellaire, 713-662-8383.
El Real Tex-Mex
This tribute to old-school Tex-Mex in a restored movie house is the brainchild of chef Bryan Caswell and cookbook author Robb Walsh. Enchiladas, puffy tacos and excellent fajitas are the mainstays, and a 3 a.m. closing time on Fridays
and Saturdays is a major plus. The refried beans here, made with serious lard, are as good as they get. 1201 Westheimer, 713-524-1201.
Wow, although there are some on the list I applaud you on some are just so terrible...
El Real, this place is a joke....hype hype hype and no delivery!
Spanish Village...last time I went it was awful bad.
El Tiempo...really, like really, come on this is cookie cutter tex mex.
...now let the bashing begin...
There's no Mexican food worth the prices at El Real.
Lopez Lopez Lopez
lopez outstanding place for Mexican Tex Mex
Hugo spare me...Garbage
Lopez definately has some of the best true Tex-Mex around. I've been a customer for over 25 years and even though I may venture out to different restaurants I always come home to Lopez. It's just real Tex-Mex. My only problem w/ Lopez is that it's so loud - the accoustics in the "new" restaurant are just bad. But when it comes to chile rellenos, enchiladas and tamales - you just can't beat 'em!!
Ok Allison, I'm confused. Haven't you reviewed El Real twice and each time wasn't a fan of the food?
Sherry - you are correct. Alison's reviews of El Real have not been great. However, to be fair to Alison, she does start the article with...
"Houstonians consider Mexican food, devoured early and often, to be their sacred birthright. Here are some of their favorite places to get the good stuff, and the margaritas that go with it."
So, my assumption (hope) is that this list represents what Alison considers Houstonians' favorite restaurants; not necessarily hers.
It's complicated. I am a fan of certain dishes at El Real, but I do not love the place across the board, nor do I consider it to be that consistent. But this compilation of Mexican restaurants was re-framed for a special section for participants in the upcoming OTC conference, and I felt I should include El Real as a notable Mexican restaurant fairly near downtown that might be of interest to--and easily accessible to--the conference-goers.
I understand and appreciate your response.
I don't think it's a good idea to suggest out of town guests go to a place that is not a good representation of the food offered in our great city. We already get a bad rep pretty much across the board (Top Chef completely ignored Houston when they filmed the Texas season).
I would go out on a limb by saying most of the attendees of the conference have a rental car and could venture out. Actually, if they were to go to some of the other restaurants listed, they would be going outside of down town.
Bottom line: El Real should not have been included on the list. That opinion is based purely on your experiences there in the past. I have never been and have no intention of going. I would not suggest someone try a place I did not personally enjoy even for convenience sake.
Top Chef didn't ignore Houston - the city didn't want to pay Bravo to film here (San Antonio & Dallas did), and wanted to have control over how the city was portrayed on the show.
El Real does certain things very well, which Alison notes in her article and her reply. Saying it "should not have been included on the list", without you having ever eaten there, makes no sense.
I was astonished to read that sentence that says "I have never been and have no intention of going." Really? Then you don't get to comment on whether it should be on this list. Seriously, first you take Allison's not-all-bad review to heart so much you refused to go, then you chastise the very reviewer you revere so much for including it on this list. El Real has great cheese enchiladas and enchiladas borunudas and many other things. But you'll never know because you've sworn off the place on the thinnest of evidence, that being none at all. Save up $8 and go have some lunch.
El Tiempo & Spanish Village are my two favorites on Allison's list!!!! El Tiempo has the biggest Tex-Mex menu selection: Great fish tacos:) & Spanish Village has the hottest homemade salsa and even serve fried chicken for lunch if you call ahead.......
El Tiempo is also one of my favorite places...I love the Durango Filet Fajitas with grilled jalapeno and cilantro , onions and tomatoes! Not that I can be a good judge of anything after a couple of the potent margaritas. The people at the Washington Ave location are great!
ok let me start with this: I am NOT a fan of yours and think most of what you write and judge is basic taco bell grade stuff.
You never mentioned Spanish Flowers on North Main. Good (notice I said GOOD not great) Tex Mex but pretty authenticate food then most listed. Lunch special goes from 10 AM to almost closing.
Los Cucos, Clay and Jones are the two I go to the most. GREAT and reasonably priced food.
Victors on fry road near clay, really good..... try the beef fajitas.
I have eaten at Ninfa's both on canal and in Bellaire triangle. And at Sylvia's. Both are over rated. You really need to branch out before you just re toss old notes about old restaurants around. But then again I don't put much weight on your comments so it doesn't matter to me.
On Fry rd try El Vaquero. It is the shopping center down from Victors Behind the pawn shop. No it is not fancy but it is good old fashioned Tex-Mex and more importantly consistent.
Fine by me if you're not a fan (it would be so boring if everyone felt the same). I welcome comments from dissenters--a healthy debate is part of what makes a great food town. FYI I reviewed Los Cucos in 2008 and liked it quite a lot. Here's the review: http://www.chron.com/entertainment/article/Los-Cucos-1661549.php
Los Cucos is good. I think the owner is related to the owner of Teotihuacan Mexican Cafe.
If her opinion doesn't matter, than why are you bothering to respond?
Come on people, this is a paid ad.
Obviously you don't know what constitutes a paid ad. I can assure you, no restaurant has ever paid to be featured in 29-95's editorial space. Of the dozen restaurants on this list, only two have ever advertised with 29-95. And editorial staff isn't aware of the advertisers until the section is printed.
I do not see HOW Sylvia's makes these lists! They charge too much for the quality of their food. Each time I have gone in to the location on Woodway - there are few people working - less people in the place and they seem angry they have to wait on you. I have been there several times hoping against hope my next visit will be better and after about twenty visits - yes it takes me a while - it has not changed.
El Tiempo is very good. Irma's is excellent. Both are expensive. As my Dad said, only Chinese food is cheaper to make than Mexican food.
Molina's and El Patio/No Minors is Houston comfort Mexican food, not the best in town, but I am happy when I am at either.
There are two restaurants in Katy that are also excellent. El Jarrito and La Hacienda Guanajuato.
What about La Fisheria? Although they are new, they are definitely worth a trip to visit.
My first trip to La Fisheria was promising, if slightly mixed. Just didn't think I had enough of a handle on it yet--and also thought it didn't seem like an OTC kind of place. I left out a couple of really far flung places I like, too, thinking that they were too much of a drive for visitors staying further in--but I think I'll go ahead and add them to this online list later this evening. I'm thinking specificially about Alicia's in Cypress and Romero's Las Brazas on Hwy 6.
So glad to see that many of our faves made the list! I really need to get to Spanish Village...been hearing some good things. I still have yet to find a better cheese enchilada than those cranked out by Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen (but I am still searching) and the beef fajitas at El Tiempo are killer!
Out in Baytown, Donnelly's Mexican Restaurant on James St. and Commerce St. is an excellent hole in the wall. Best enchiladas and tacos around and I've tried them all in Houston it seems. BYOB, which makes it nice, too!
El Tiempo is definitely one of my favorites in Houston. I drive up just for the guacamole, beef fajita nachos and margaritas. Yes, they are lethal Alison (the margs that is!)
Thanks for the Donnelly's tip!
El Real and Original Ninfa's as BEST in Houston? No way!!! When the new owners of Ninfa's took over they changed their hot sauces and their Ninfaritas which were probably the best things there. Their food has been for the most part very mediocre. El Real is just bad. Stale tortilla chips, salty food, etc. No thanks.
Anyone have an update on Sylvia's condition these days?
....all joking aside Alison do you get paid to write this by someone or somebody? Seriously your reply above makes me laugh, don't put a piece out until its right...like Underbelly claiming they represent true Houston food, good lord how wrong they are.... I think I'm giving up on folks I thought really understood what good food was.....
The piece I updated for one purpose (OTC special section) doesn't work as well as an online "Best of" list for regular Chronicle readers. That seems simple enough to understand. When I updated the piece for OTC purposes, I was not aware it would be posted online at chron.com.
Now that I am aware--I will adapt it to better fit its double purpose.
Please have a look at Pueblo Viejo on I-10 at Wirt on the north side of the freeway in front of the Home Depot. I was pleasantly surprised not to find the standard Tex-Mex there, but instead, authentic food from D.F. Mexico. The enchiladas are made with queso fresco rather than the gooey stuff of the typical Tex-Mex (which I like as well) Huge plates of food for a good price. My wife and I ate lunch there with enough food for four and our bill was seventeen dollars. The service was quick, friendly,there were no slip-ups and everything that touched my tongue was fresh and tasty. An all around great experience. I was full after half a plate but could not stop, which is unusual for me, though I didn't leave feeling bloated, rather, entirely satisfied.
Thanks for the tip!
El real is a joke, el garbage, Hugo overrated , n high price, Lopez much better. Al u don't know jack.
Lopez on S. Wilcrest is by far the best Tex-Mex restaurant in Houston.
A respectable list. [Except for El Tiempo which I have yet to be impressed by]. My only complaint: the title of the article. I feel that some of the spots listed are decidedly Mexican while some others are decidedly Tex-Mex. And in my opinion, these two cuisines should not be lumped all together into the "Mexican" category.
I have to laugh at the guy who said that Laurenzo's El Tiempo is "Cookie cutter Rex Mex... People, This family invented Tex Mex!!! Mama Ninfa, I LOVE YOU STILL!
Alison,
Have you tried Mexico's Deli on Dairy Ashford? At one time, I believe they were planning on relocating into the space next to Uchi.
Insane variety of tortas and there are lines of folks typically waiting for the al pastor.
Give it a try if you have not already.
gthou, I agree. But please stop telling everyone...the lines are long enough already!
Two restaurants that never get mentioned, but serve some of the best comfort Mexican food in twown, are Tecate on Ella just inside the North Loop (the Lomo de Puerco and the Enchiladas Ricas are outstanding, and the Tamales plate is classic Tex-Mex), and Taqueria del Sol off I-45 South (always busy even though they do not sell alcohol, and makes the best Machacado con Huevo you will ever have).
I went to Taqueria del Sol and found the food to be ordinary taqueria fare. Maybe I went on an off day but they used store bought tortillas.
To those that say they do not place stock in Alison Cook's reviews then you also have the option to:
A. Not read the posts.
B. Not go to the places she suggests.
C. Write your own restaurant reviews.
Alison, you show class in your reaction to some of the more negative hoi polli. Thanks for your creative and informative restaurant reviews. Love the ooze factor and will always remember Aries. Have a good weekend.
Allison, where is Juanita's? Love Juanita's and thought you did as well! (one off North Loop, one off Kuykendahl (my personal fave) and one near Louetta and Jones.
ninfas old school, move on pappasitos is soooo much better then all thoses filthy ,dirty kitchens wannbees restaurants.when those restaurants can do 2 million a week in sales like sitos then they can talk.
Sylvia's is just plain bad and El REal is good, but Hugo's should be numero uno for the freshest,best and real (not tex-mex)Mexican food in the City!
Good list. Amazing how effective these types of articles are at bringing out the trolls and ignoramuses.
clumsy dumsy and your opinion is great. open a restaurant then u can speak.
Ah, an Aries mention slips in. Nice job, Sue3.
You are all wrong. The best Mexican food in town is at Cristina's. Chicken tacos sound simple fare? Hand pulled premium white meat & super secret tortilla treatment topped off with as-fresh-as-possible veggie mix. Great cooks make it look easy! LOL!
Suegra! Only by invitation!
My 2 cents: La Hacienda on Memorial Drive: love their Tacos al Carbon and Shrimp Vallarta. Plus just about everything else including their Margarita (on the Rocks, of course).
Very nicely put together group of restaurants, Alison. Ever since you wrote that article about Chile Con Queso, I know you write from the heart about mexican food. All you haters in the building, I'd like to see the number of articles you've published. I grew up in Houston, have read and experienced mexican food for years and years, and love finding new places to go (especially after moving to the Northeast and living internationally for a while). Let's just be thankful we live in Houston, because no one has a handle on mexican food like we do.
There are a lot of good Mexican restaurants. The you need to be open minded and go to some Hispanic neighborhoods. Very good places to be found.
What about Pappasitos?!
What about Landry's, Perry's and Houston's?
Obviously you are not an aficionado of Mexican food!
What about Don Picos in Pasadena? Or Jalisco on Hwy.3(Galveston Rd.)and Richey in south Houston ..fresh made corn and flower tortillas...not much to look at but always packed.
don picos lol, cheap food, dirty kitchen, and always a coupon u can use, The wal mart of mexican food.
I will have to throw in a THIRD for Lopez Mexican Restaurant. I was dismayed, at first, when I noticed that your list only included ITL restaurants, but I get it if it was geared towards OTC peeps.
Allison- have you every or will you ever review Lopez? I've been eating there since I was a baby in 1982 and still contend that they make, hands down, the best cheese enchiladas anywhere around here. Only place I've had as good is The Vermillion in Brownsville.
Try em!
I will have to throw in a THIRD for Lopez Mexican Restaurant. I was dismayed, at first, when I noticed that your list only included ITL restaurants, but I get it if it was geared towards OTC peeps.
Allison- have you every or will you ever review Lopez? I've been eating there since I was a baby in 1982 and still contend that they make, hands down, the best cheese enchiladas anywhere around here. Only place I've had as good is The Vermillion in Brownsville.
Try em!
Guadalapana????!!!!! Curse you allison cook! I have wasted 2 meals of my life at this horrible dive. Nothing is good there, except the price and even than you can get much better tex mex elsewhere. What about taqueria Laredo as well as others. I think you write eloquently and sometimes your taste is ok, but maybe you need to bring someone along with you so that they can say "what are you smoking?" before you write recommendations. This place among others has discredited your judgement.
Simmer down Bobby. I don't care for Irma's but I am not going off the deep end. Poor Allison, taking quite a beating.
I think a lot of folks are making AC’s point about “sacred” birthright. You might as well argue religion. Zagat says Hugo’s is numero uno, but it’s not Tex-Mex as much as a stepping stone for people who might want to get interested in real Mexican food. I like Hugo’s, but it’s almost over-qualified.
Spanish Village lost me when this old trailer-trash barfly of a waitress forced us to order meals before serving margs, citing policy. We were sober, BTW. I don’t order until my second margarita is teed-up. How can you begin to make the poor nutritional food choices that make up a typical Tex-Mex feast without half a buzz on? They weren't that good anyway. My top three of the big names, that if I want one and you want the other today, there will be no argument from me:
Teotihuacan - East side
El Tiempo - But best for a late Saturday lunch. Screw those dinner prices; I ain’t no trust fund baby.
Ninfa’s on Navigation – Take me back to the 70’s.
Plus, any Tex-Mex joint that calls a pre-fried upside-down corn bowl a “CCQ Puff” should be excluded from consideration.
Totally agree with the CCQ Puff exclusion. These should only be served in speroid form and should be no smaller than a small dodgeball.
I have eaten at over 100 mexican places around Houston....
Irma's...is horrific.
El Real is a cool place....but food so-so
Sylvia's is simply bad...
All three of these are vastly over-rated...and always have been
Original Ninfa's...I have to agree with the other poster...changed managment..and changed 2 of their best things...Ritas, and Sauce..????WHY is my question...Still very good.
EL Rancho in Katy (Fry Road) is a under-rated, good place.
Always liked Los Tios...but I think that is more of a personal thing with me.
Cantina Laredo....over-priced, but pretty good.
Don Carlos ?
How about Loma Linda's on Telephone? I LOVE their puffy tacos. Yum!
Loma Lindas is good, and pretty cheap for lunch!
i also really like lopez but i grew up eating at el gallo on gessener near hammerly road. I love it, i don't care if someone else thinks its terrible. there i said it...
Don't forget about the Last Concert Cafe!
Funny, out of all of the listed restaurants maybe 2 can be considered Mexican. All others are Tex-Mex. Real Mexican? Mexico's Deli, El Hidalguense, and Otilia's. Hugo's may have a Mexican chef but his "pibil" is no better than canned adobo.
Los Cucos and Molina's Cantina should def be listed!!
Molina's Cantina
Hidalguense on long point
What about Doneraki Authentic Mexican Restaurant on Westheimer (near Voss/Hillcroft Intersection) ??? The fajitas are unbelivable..
I've been eating at Villa Arcos since I was a kid some amazing tasting packed tacos I wish they would stay open later I haven't had a chance to go by there in almost a year but almost everyday I think about going.
I ate at Molina's on Washington Blvd last October and the food was very good. The refried beans are the best i have had in many years. So long in fact that i forgot what good refrieds should be. I had given up
on most other places refrieds (tasteless mush) and would always try to get whole pintos instead. But at Molina's , the refried beans are very well seasoned and should be considered a benchmark to judge all other refrieds.
Jouquim was
a most excellant waiter. Mature, well dressed and professional - not the young punk part-timers lots of places hire. When you have had a
good experience - tell the staff so they know what is being done right
in order to replicate it.
ps to Chron.com staff - the 29-95 Blog format requiring seperate log-on
than from Chron.com ( ive been a member many years) has further fragmented your newspaper. The Chron.com used to be much more consistant in its format and layout graphical interface . You have
also gone to franchise certain sections which i dont bother to look at
because they are not Houston sourced.
I am surprised nobody mentioned Tacos La Bala on Bellaire. They are the most authentic tacos I have tried in the US after 6 years in Mexico.
Native Texan, grew up in South Texas, 20 years in Houston. Keep trying other places, but Molinas (Westheimer or Washington Ave.) is the gold standard.
I despise Pappasitos - the food is inedible, made with the cheapest ingredients and is of the poorest quality at that. Rice, beans, processed american cheese and flank steak overly marinated w/packaged seasoning (think McCormicks) do not justify $15 for fajitas. The servers are young and unprofessional - thinking nothing of having a conversation with other servers while trying to take an order. The Pappasitos near Willowbrook is just filthy. Not even a free meal would get me back into a Pappasitos and Pappadeaux's is just more of the same.