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During the months I labored on compiling this ranked list of my 100 top Houston restaurants, scarcely a day went by that I didn’t hear the inevitable objections echoing in my head. Gripes like “it’s arbitrary.” Or “it’s just one person’s opinion.” Or “why on earth did restaurant X not make the cut?”
Even, more pointedly, “How can she rate a food cart above a white-tablecloth restaurant with a brigade of trained chefs, a squad of polished servers and a crack sommelier?”
Imagining those arguments kept me awake at night, but they also kept me on my toes. And increasingly as I worked, I embraced the value of the project.
I’ve been thinking and writing about Houston restaurants for the better part of four decades. I’ve had a ringside seat as the city evolved from an imitative dining backwater to a multicultural powerhouse with a dynamic sense of its own culinary strengths and its own unique heritage. My choices for this top 100 list in large part reflect my understanding of where Houston is at this particular moment in its dining history, and where it is headed.
These are the restaurants that matter most to me right now: the ones that make me happiest, that stir the keenest anticipation and convey the richest sense of place. They aren’t necessarily the fanciest or most expensive or even the most ambitious restaurants in town, although there is a place in my heart and my head (and on the list) for restaurants that meet those descriptions. The quality of the food served was my first and foremost consideration.
I was liberal in my definition of “restaurant.” There are trucks and a cart on this list — places with no seating and few amenities, but the special gift of “restoring” diners that characterized those first restaurants to emerge in centuries past. These mobile purveyors are an emerging part of Houston’s restaurant scene and a source of considerable vision and energy. I honored that by taking them seriously.
Ranking the restaurants was the hardest work I have done in years. I made a rule for myself that I would return for a close look at restaurants to which I had given my top four- or three-star ratings in recent years, and that I would revisit as many two-star and one-star restaurant candidates as humanly possible.
It was humbling how often my assumptions were upended by my revisits. Restaurants I thought would rank highly disappointed me with woeful or mediocre meals. Restaurants I had all but forgotten about wowed me with their vibrance and consistent execution. Some restaurants fell off the list-in-progress when their talented chefs departed or when they closed.
I was reminded anew how changeable restaurants can be, whether from day to day or from year to year. The best of them, despite the odds, manage to maintain an even keel, and those are the ones that rose to the top of my ranking. I tried to make my list as diverse as Houston’s wide-ranging restaurant scene. But if no restaurants in a certain category truly grabbed me, I moved on. Maybe next year.
Also on the docket for next year are the important restaurants on which I haven’t yet formed a firm critical opinion. Time will tell where they fit into the scheme of things, but I was in no hurry to pass judgment on every new contender.
As to the arguments such a list is bound to stir up, I welcome them. A spirited dialogue about restaurants is a sign of an exciting food culture. Let the debate begin.
This list is making me hungry! It's not in "order" right? Bc Kata is def not better than Uchi??
I was also very suprised about Kata Robata being better than Uchi!
The pictures confuse me. Are you listing the top 100 restaurants in Houston overall or is it the top 100 plates that you can get in Houston?
These restaurants are Alison Cook's choices for the best restaurants in Houston. The photos are dishes the restaurants serve.
No spot for Triniti? Had a pretty good review.
My final deadline came before my third visit to Triniti, which was the game-changer for me and would have secured it a good spot on the list. It's definitely in the running for next year.
Triniti reminds me of a throw back to some of those pretentious restaurants of the 70's and early 80's where you paid through the nose to leave hungry! Two thumbs down!
There are not 95 restaurants better than Rainbow Lodge. Sorry.
Lists like this are always a lot of fun, not least because of the discussions they set off. I applaud you for the work and thought that clearly went into compiling this. But I'm curious: Did you have any qualms about putting such a new restaurant in the No. 1 spot? No matter how good it is, can you be sure a restaurant is "the best" when it hasn't had to stand the test of time? Did you factor in sustainability at all, or is this purely a snapshot of the moment (as it appears with three 2012 openings in the top 10)?
Definitely more of a snapshot of "right now." Restaurants that might have been in the top 10 two years ago were revisited, and placed appropriately (in her opinion) considering how she felt they stood at the time.
That's a really good question. Certainly I knew ranking a new restaurant like Oxheart so high was a risk, but to me it wasn't a big enough one to be decisive. I was already very familiar with Justin Yu and Karen Man's work and their work ethic. And from my very first visit, I knew I could compare Oxheart favorably to some of the best restaurants I've visited anywhere. That's the kind of achievement I just felt I had to recognize.
The interesting thing is that any way I did the list, it would be a snapshot of the present. Along the way, from month to month, restaurants I had ranked highly closed or lost their chef, and new ones that I felt strongly about opened. The restaurant scene here is even more fluid than I had thought, and I just did the best I could with that fact.
Thanks so much Alison. I was glad to see some of my old casual favorites like Himalaya and Giacomo's so high on the list, and I've already noted a few new places I need to try!
I'm a food blogger here in Houston. My blog is called "Thyme". I am so happy to see this list. I am moving into doing more and more restaurant reviews. I can't wait to check out some of your recommendations! Thank you for all of this hard work. (Oh, my blog is rileymadel(at)blogspot(at)com
Hugos? As someone who grew up in Mexico City that has to be the most pretentious worst tasting food in Houston. Otilias on Longpoint is a thousand times better.
OMG right? Chapulines and cabrito... so pretentious!
PRETENTIOUS IS THE PERFECT WORD TO DESCRIBE THIS ENTIRE LIST!
I have eaten at both and would not compare the two. While Otilia's is more everday Tex Mex, Hugo's is a Mexican restaurant with an upscale twist.
Otilia's has a great chile relleno, enchiladas, and lemonade. What they sorely lack is HOMEMADE TORTILLAS! They are store bought and you can taste it!
Spanish Village? For reals?
For reals! Spanish Village is a Houston classic!
Yes Spanish Village is still a lunch favorite of mine & my co-workers. The Salsa is a bit hot, but everything there is the same stuff that was served when I grew-up in H-town back in the 70's & 80"s!!!!!
Best margaritas and hot sauce in the state!
I can't believe how many of these places I haven't tried! Must get out more. :)
Great, thought-provoking list.
And for the record, Hugo's is fanastic. As is Oxheart, Kata, Feast, and Underbelly (still haven't tried Tony's, but now more than ever - I want to).
Pondicheri is worth it for the bake bar alone (and if you're unsure of the food, try the chickpea-flour fried chicken - stupendous). Glad to see a lot of personal faves (like Giacomo's) as well.
Enjoyed the list and thought Alison did a good job including all types of restaurants and foods that really illustrate the variety available in Houston. I think we are lucky to have such a gifted food critic and I always enjoy reading her reviews.
Of course, there will always be one place we like that we feel should be on the list and for me that is Charivari. One of our favorite places, we not only go for the food, we love the atmosphere. Quiet setting (hard to find in Houston), thoughtful service and reasonably priced wines. Open for 12 years now, I think we have been going for 10.
But two places I was very glad to see on the list are Virgie's and Spanish Village. We have been going to Virgie's on a regular basis (nearly every Sat. for lunch) since Alison's first review. We love the smoked brisket sandwiches, but we have also bought briskets and ribs for large parties and everyone always raves about it. I travel around Texas alot, and I often try brisket sandwiches in many different locations just to compare to Virgie's. Have only found two places that are on par if not better, and they were in Refugio and Fannin. Do take Alison's recommendation to leave off the sauce. As much as I like Adrian's brisket, the sauce is too sweet and smoky...and I think that masks the real flavors of the meat.
We also love Spanish Village. Quirky, best Margaritas..you can taste the tequila, they are not sweet and I love that ice. Best place for the kind of Tex-Mex I grew up with, especially the cheese and onion enchiladas. Always feels like home.
WHERE. IS. HAVEN?
It's right there in the #38 slot.
whoooaaa...um, no Da Marcos and Mark's ? Zagat at one point ranked Da Marcos as best in Houston. How'd it not make this list at all?
Da Marco's is on the list at #20. It would have ranked much higher had I not had a very disappointing meal there when I revisited for this project. Still, its long record of excellent meals factored into my placement.
Marks has gone downhill since like 2003-2004. It deserves to be left off. It needs a revamp!
I agree with leaving Marks off the list. Last visit was well, very disappointing. They had the of the chart attitute, but the food was so-so
Great list! Thought provoking and interesting. Brava. I have one primary disagreement. I think Glass Wall should be included on any list of Houston's best 100 restaurants. Superb food; magnificent wine list.
Have you been since they switched chefs? Lance Fegen isn't involved with it any more. I used to like it quite a bit when he was there.
Did you include any of the incredible places in the Clearlake area? Tommy's Patio Cafe on Bay Area Blvd.is my favorite place to go when I visit our friends in Houston. Tommy was the head chef and president of The Flying Dutchman...which was the best place on the Kemah pier before the pier became so commercialized. Then he opened Tommy's Patio Cafe, which is an upscale Cajun restaurant. I believe he has now opened another cafe off of Beltway 8 and Westheimer.
I miss those days before the Kemah Pier became a tourist trap. I used to go down to Rose's Seafood and buy fresh right off of the boats.
Cathy
Korean BBQ (#77) is in the Clear Lake area. It's right there on El Dorado and would have been my choice if I could have chosen only one restaurant from the Clear Lake area. If I were to add more from Clear Lake it would be Cuisine of India and King Chicken.
guess I need to put Cuisine of India and King Chicken on my to-do list.
Thanks so much for putting together this list. My wife and I relocated to Houston from Los Angeles four years ago, and we were initially worried about leaving our favorite LA restaurants behind. We visited Feast on our final visit before moving here, and I knew after eating there that we would be OK. Since then, we have never looked back, and many of our new favorites are on your list. I am especially glad at the range of places you have included - from Tony's to Asia Market - and look forward to trying out some more of your choices. Indeed, we snagged a reservation for Oxheart just before your list came out!
Glad you're over the culture shock and enjoying what we have to offer here. LA and Houston seem similar to me in many ways: wide=ranging, vibrant ethnic restaurant scene, car culture, strip malls, kind of the New America. I always felt strangely at home in LA when I visited there.
I find it interesting that you did not inclued Le Mistral in your top 100 list, yet Le Mistral was ranked the #1 restrauant in Houston by Zagat's for the last 2 years.
Le Mistral is one of the best French restaurants and for that matter restaurants in Houston. It is definitely worth a visit.
I agree, as usual the list is typical Cook's pretentious old taste on most, but some of them are really good....T'afia comes to mind.
so you're arguing that Le Mistral is NOT "pretentious old taste" but places like La Guadalupana and Alpha Bakery and Bernie's Burger Bus ARE? I don't understand that line of thought.
A good reason not to depend on Zagat's.
I agree!! Le Mistral is my favorite restaurant!! The chef's table experience at Le Mistral should definitely be on everyone's, "Must DO List!" Chef David Denis is a true artist and master chef, the most gifted one in our region. He also is always very gracious with his guests. We are fortunate to have him in here in Houston. His new venture, Artisan, is also a real gem.
Confusing exclusions that are both in my top 10: Mockingbird Bistro and Backstreet Cafe. And also El Real should be somewhere within the top 3 or 4 Tex Mex. And Goode Co Seafood but not BBQ--REALLY?!
To Cathy: I got deathly, crawling on the floor, wishing I was dead sick from Tommy's Patio Cafe in Clear Lake. Watch out!
You missed a wonderful restaurant: Le Mistral
Allison, You forgot Lankford Market for hamburgers. It's the best greasiest hamburger in town but don't tell anyone or it will become too popular and ruin it for us regulars. Enjoyed reviewing your list. Regards,
Your beloved hole in the wall was on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives a couple years ago. It's hardly some secret place. And, in my opinion, well behind the 3 listed burger places in terms of quality and consistency.
I love Alison & this list is great! There is plenty of room for carping because so many judgments go into a list like this whenever it is done. If she redid it today, it would be different! Any place Aliison likes is worth a try for me. My experience on a given visit may not be the same as hers, and I certainly yield to her knowledge and discrimination for evaluating a restaurant. One thing I think should be added to this publication is an interactive map with links to all the restaurants on it. I will build one for myself, but why is I not part of the presentation? When I am looking for a new place to try, location will always be a big factor!
Thanks, AnonRG. You are correct--if I did the list today, in mid June--as opposed to my mid-April deadline--it would be different. That was one of the things that really impressed me while working on the project: how fluid the Houston restaurant scene was. Actually there is a map, built by the estimable @kylejack on Twitter, which graphs the locations of every single one of the Top 100 restaurants on the map. Enjoy: here's the link:. http://bit.ly/NlJp50
Love the list, and reviews. Honest and I'm sure sure hard to score. I'd love to see a new 100 list sorted by areas out side of Houston.
Gotta love Giacomos at #17!!!!
I'm surprised Zelko Bistro is not on your list. My recollection is that you had good things to say about it. Why is it absent?
Actually my review was very mixed. I admire chef Zelko's talent and think the place looks charming, but I was disappointed in the food, which was anything but consistent.
Having to defend our fair city many times from the subtle jibes of friends from more sophisticated and culturally developed cities to the north, I now find myself defending a food critic who thinks that an umbrella stand serving crapes should count amongst our finest restaurants. Pathetic. I’m certain Frank Bruni is scurrying to survey the hotdog stands in NYC in response. James Beard would turn over in his grave.
I am pretty sure James Beard would have loved Melange Creperie and asked for seconds and thirds.
The soul of a city's food scene is found in the streets and builds from there. Crepes are French Soul food and variations of them are just that in many other cultures. In the end walls does not a restaurant make; it is the passion and ultimately the food.
And apparently someone missed that Frank Bruni eats at Shake Shack, has his favorite dive bar and street food along with the latest cutting edge trend-setting restaurants, not that it matters. It’s about the food. Great List, it has people talking, spurring discourse, and that always a good thing.
thanks. I didn't even want to get into the Frank Bruni angle; just the thought of James Beard spurning Melange Creperie was enough to make me throw up my hands. I am pretty sure he and Buffalo Sean would have been soul mates.
Walter, you might want to bone up on your spelling before launching into a tirade. It is crepes, not crapes. Good and noteworthy food can be found in many venues. As for friends from the north, take it from a Jersey girl transplant living in Houston (the second time) since 1993, Houston can rock any palette just as well as any place up north. I think Houston can stand on its own and not be defended by someone who obviously thinks it needs defending. As for the food critic, she is someone that graciously provides informative and interesting reviews.
Alison...Will the Chronicle let me use their credit card to see if I agree with you ? It seems that you ignored a number of places that I frequent and many of your choices I've been to and will not return. Never the less, your column is, if nothing else, amusing.
Nope, you're on your own.
I really am enjoying the list and so far I have been to almost half of the restaurants. I do believe that Le Mistral is missing. Hopefully it is was just an oversight. Thanks again for putting the list together.
A group of 5 of us made the trek to RadicalEats on Fulton over the weekend based on the Top 100 Ranking in the Chron survey. Okay, this place is not much to look at, parking is limited, and the overall ambience inside is well ... disheveled. After sitting down and looking around you get that feeling the place needs a good scrub down. But the food was good-to-very-good, and reasonably priced to boot - but hold on now, it's not one of Houston's top 100 restaurants ... top 200 maybe.
The place needs a scrub down and so do the workers! I went to try RE out and half the workers were smoking, the guy who waited on me was touching his mustache and the lady in pjs was scratching her head. The old guy making tamales didn't even wash his hands after smoking and didn't use gloves. (I'm glad they were out of tamales after seeing that) they have the best tortillas but, if they can't bother to clean the place up I can only imagine how the kitchen is! But its not top 100 in cleanist restaurant
Alison, What? No Jonathan's The Rub?
I kid, I kid.
What about Sammy's Wild Game grill? Different, tasty and unique. Love it!
Kata over Uchi? Curious how you came up with that. Also, what about Cafe Lili or Tiny Boxwoods, both very pleasant, and Benjys, the original hip Houston restaurant.
Have you ever been to Thien Thanh on Bellaire Blvd. in the strip center by Lee's Bakery? The banh cuon dish is to die for!
no, but I am putting it on my list. Thanks! Love banh cuon.
Yummy List Alison. Banana Leaf and Balaji are two of my favs. You've got to try Bundu Khan Kabab House (Southwest Houston) and M&M Grill (Medical Center). You'll love their food.
Thanks for the tips, Amber! Putting them on my list.
I compliment you on your list. It was great to see that it was very inclusive and represented the wide diversity of food offerings and cultures in Houston. There are a number of Indian/Pakistani and Asian places that we need to try out. Great guide for your readers.
Somehow, you forgot Perry's in Clear Lake. With the three-pepper steaks, chatearbriande, oysters and bananas Foster, it would be impossible to knowingly leave them off this list. I have been going there since 1994 and consider it a treat to go. Oh, I forgot the pork chop.
Whining about Woody's Smokehouse in Centerville...Anybody want to eat a raw COW...OOOHHH!!! Worst brisket EVER!!! They should have made boots instead of sandwiches. And everything in the store is expired or on the verge. If this is the best they have to offer they should go the way of the old Terry's truck stops...go away...we'll look at the bones of your business like old dinosaurs in a museum except you'll be on both sides of the road.
alison, thank you for compiling this list but I believe you are missing White Oak Kitchen + Drinks in the Galleria Mall. They have the best Falafel Fattoush salad!!! They just opened...I'm surprised you don't have them in your articles or list.
thanks for putting them on my radar.
I can't beleive that there aren't any restaraunts in the North Side of town. But after looking at the map that one of your readers produced, it became clear what the situation was. Your comfort zone extends from downtown and heads west. You should venture up to the northside. There are are a lot of places to eat. Certainly there are more great places to eat up North other than America's in the Woodlands.
Why not give me a list of your favorites? You must have some specific places in mind.
Alison, way to spring this list while I'm spending two weeks schlepping through Europe with my damn girlfriend's choir! Having said that, I thought this list was an incredible (not to mention brave) piece of work. It must be hard to spend the time needed to do this right and then see people complain about why some random fried chicken place didn't make the list.
Anyway, my question is this... How do you think this top 100 list stacks up against other high profile culinary cities? I travel quite extensively for business, and I'm always evangelizing Houston restaurants. I think we have some of the best food in the country, but why is it that we never seem to get our props?
Great list! I've been visiting some of the restaurants on here just because of Alison Cook's list, and I have not yet been disappointed! This really shows the diverse and different types of restaurants we have in Houston.