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Photos by J.C. Reid: The new Burns BBQ location
Over the last few years, tragedy has befallen some of Houston's best-known barbecue joints. Drexler's BBQ quietly closed its doors a few years ago. Williams Smokehouse burned down in 2007, never to reopen. The original Thelma's BBQ on Live Oak Street burned down in 2009, only to be resurrected at a new location on Scott Street. And just this past March Virgie's Bar-B-Que, a relatively under-the-radar joint in west Houston highly regarded by barbecue aficionados, closed due to a fire (they plan to reopen).
But one of the more surprising closures happened last May, when the venerable Burns BBQ suddenly closed with little explanation ("closed due to repairs" the sign said). Although the founder and patriarch, Roy Burns Sr., had passed away a few months earlier, Burns BBQ had continued to serve up barbecue to devoted customers at the De Priest Street location in the Acres Homes area of Houston.
Turns out that the location had closed due to violations found during a health code inspection. This wasn't surprising, considering how hard it is for any barbecue joint to satisfy health department requirements. At the time I talked to Kathy Braden, owner and daughter of Roy Burns Sr., and she assured me that they would reopen in a few weeks after extensive repairs. But weeks turned in to months, and people began to wonder if it would reopen at all.
Then last summer, Burns BBQ reopened in a new location on North Shepherd near Little York. Although the old De Priest location oozed character with its tiny order counter/waiting room, picnic tables out front, and an old-school, falling-apart barbecue shack feel, the new location is a big improvement. There's a big parking lot and an equally big ordering area in a tidy, brightly painted building. There are a few tables along one side, and even more individual chairs lined up side by side along the opposite wall where customers wait for to-go orders (Burns is mostly a take-out joint).
The barbecue at Burns is not the best in Houston, by my estimation. The brisket is invariably dry, often with little smoke flavor (I think the brisket here is mainly used to fill the chopped beef sandwiches that are drenched in sauce). The ribs are tasty, though sometimes chewy and far from "falling off the bone" tender. But what do I know? On a recent Saturday afternoon, as I sat and waited for my order, I watched a steady stream of patrons collect plate after plate of Burn's barbecue to go. Surely with this volume of business, they must be doing something right?
Of course barbecue, like just about everything else, is a matter of personal taste. Some people prefer a certain style of barbecue, whether its the porky goodness of North Carolina, the beef-centric approach of central Texas, or the Southern-inspired, sauce-driven barbecue made famous by the African-American pitmasters of east Texas (Roy Burns, Sr. being one of the most famous purveyors of this style in Houston). More objectively, Burns BBQ has garnered several notable awards over the years, the most prominent of which is being named to Texas Monthly's latest list of the Top 50 Texas barbecue joints.
A little known story about Burns BBQ features, of all people, Anthony Bourdain, the bad-boy former chef best known for the Travel Channel's food/travel show "No Reservations". In the second season of his first widely viewed series, "A Cook's Tour" on the Food Network, Bourdain made his first and only visit to Houston to cover the food scene here. The one place he chose to visit was Burns BBQ. (Video above, with a youngish-looking Bourdain and a wonderful interview with Roy Burns, Sr. at the old De Priest location).
So depending on your taste in barbecue, you may find Burns to be great, average, or just plain mediocre. I'm in the "average" camp when it comes to Burns' barbecue staples like brisket and ribs, but there are a few menu items that make a visit worthwhile. First, the aforementioned chopped brisket sandwich is big and tasty, with mounds of brisket soaked in a not-too-sweet barbecue sauce. Also the house-made sausage links are a rich, meaty, spicy delight. But one of the most interesting things on Burns' menu isn't even on the menu.
A styrofoam container of "regulars" at Burns BBQ
Many years ago, during one of my first visits to the old Burns location, I was sitting at an outside picnic table waiting for my order. There was one other fellow at an adjacent table, eating his way through a big container of what looked like ribs. As my order arrived he got up and brought his container over and set it on my table. "You want my regulars?" he asked. "I can't eat all these."
I had no idea what "regulars" were, but not wanting to appear like a barbecue neophyte I replied, "Sure! I love regulars!" And that's how I learned about one of the oldest traditions on Houston barbecue.
Regulars are the leftover trimmings of pork spare ribs that are saved and cooked alongside the main slabs of ribs in the barbecue smoker. The term "regulars" is presumably an abridgement of "irregulars," as in "irregular cuts" of pork rib trimmings. In other barbecue traditions, these pork rib trimmings are known as "rib tips" or "tasters." Leftover or throwaway cuts of meat have a long history in other styles of barbecue, too. "Burnt ends" are well-known in Kansas City style barbecue; in fact these chunks of charred-to-a-crisp fat and brisket meat are considered a delicacy.
As far as I know, Burns is the only barbecue joint in Houston that still serves regulars (they're not on the menu — you have to ask for them). The main draw of regulars, in my experience, is the value. You get a huge styrofoam container piled high with pork rib trimmings for about $8. Although there is a lot of meat to be had in a pile of regulars, you have to work to get it. A lot of the rib chunks are either filled with inedible gristle and cartilage or cooked to a crisp. But patient work will often yield succulent chunks of pork rib meat and well-rendered fat.
Houston continues to nurture a long-standing tradition of Southern-style barbecue with the resurrection of Burns and Thelma's and, hopefully, the return of Virgie's. Relative newcomers like Pierson's and Gatlin's continue the tradition. Houston may not have the breadth and depth of the central Texas barbecue meccas like Lockhart and Taylor, but if you know what to order and where to find it, great barbecue can still be had in Houston.
Follow J.C. Reid on Twitter @houston_foodie and his blog J.C. Reid, Texas.
Still missin' the Lockwood Inn.
I thought It was just me that thought Lockwood Inn had the best BBQ. I sure miss that place. Daddy used to take us there on Sundays.
Thought I was the only one. Lockwood Inn was the best in Houston.
Love this post, Chris. I do enjoy Burns BBQ and will have to ask for some regulars next time I'm there :)
are regulars the same as the knuckle of cartilage and meat that comes on most spare ribs (as in, not the kind served at pizzitolas)?
I love this article. Chris said it eloquently. I and my pastor's wife was recently in there. We ordered the chopped beef and she ordered the home-made sausage. It was filling but it is not the best. That was her first time actually going to Burns. They have had take-out brought to the church office, but she have never been to the location until then. I told her if we went, she might expect a crowd and we could get take-out. She said she prayed that it would not be overwhelmingly crowded, and it wasn't. We had a pleasant visit, though someone noticed her and spoke. She is a prominent pastor's wife that is humble and keep their names on a low profile and Jesus exalted. I was honored to have taken her there first! Their name is still being spread wide, Burns and the pastor and his wife, even though they are humble.
The style of "falling off the bone" is not good barbecue, it's overcooked in that case. And why is it hard for barbecue joints to pass health inspections? What is it that makes it more difficult than other types of restaurants?
Well, "falling off the bone" is the way I like ribs. Generally, the meat gets that tendency from long cooking time at very low temperature; the meat does not get "overcooked" from the long and low cooking anymore than meat is undercooked when the meat is put for 20 minutes directly over grilling coals.
I can understand what you are saying. I'm actually referring to the overcooking that turns the meat into mush. True BBQ is not falling off the bone (my opinion I grant) but has some structure to the meat, some bounce. You can pull the meat off without too much trouble and it is tender but it doesn't just fall off. Yes I agree slow cooking does not mean overcooking. I'll low temp cook a brisket or pork roast for 12-15 hours and the meat is tender and juicy but not mush, that's the difference. 'course I'm of the mind there isn't any 'bad' barbecue just good and great.
Three BBQ joints and Three fires?
What was the determination of the HFD Arson Division?
BBQ is BIG business in TX and I'd be looking for a certain large BBQ chain trying to stamp out the good hometown food for their overpriced poor quality fare.
I'm happy to read that there is still someplace to get REAL BBQ in Houston and I'll be stopping by to sample some.
Best of luck and continued success!
Has anyone tried R&K Barbecue on Normandy St.? He parked his trailer in front of the Home Depot for years, but now has this restaurant. I'd like to make it out there soon.
Rudy's is serving up by far the best BBQ I have had in recent years. And yes I have been to Thelmas, Burns, Hickory Hollow, Clyde's, Goode Co, etc. etc.
You have GOT to be kidding me. I tried Rudy's on 290 and it was by far the worst bbq I've ever had. The meat was cold, sauce was weak, and the bread was too thick. Terrible. I'll never go there again. Gatlin's BBQ is the best bbq in the Houston Area....hands down.
No kidding here! Never tried Gatlin's so I can't speak on that but the aforementioned places have seriously declined since I've started visiting them many many years ago. Goode Co. has HORRENDOUS sides that are not edible at times, Thelmas is hit-and-miss, HH is good but can taste bland at times, and Luling Market is just decent overall. A good BBQ joint IMO has to have good meats, good sauce, and good sides. Rudy's potato salad is amazing, their meats are always tender and hot, and their sauce is good as well. The sauce might not be the best out of all the places I have mentioned but it isn't the worst by far either. The thing about Rudy's is that they are consistent with their product while the other places are not.
On point, Pechis, but I've got to disagree w/you on one thing - Thelma's is way more miss than hit. She was perfect for the downtown lunch crowd, but the Third Ward BBQ palate expects a bit more. There's BBQ history in that little building, and it deserves way better than what the last 10 years have brought. The mobile guys on the corner of Wentworth and Dowling and/or Almeda and Palm do the BBQ tradition justice.
You're right about Rudy's. They are surprisingly good (and consistent) for a chain. They 'aint scared to feed you - we always have to leave the 290 location with a to-go plate. Sauce is more for dippin' fries than dressing meat, but if you say so...
Hey, speaking of chains - no love for Gabby's around here? LOL!
Gotta say I agree with you on Rudy's. I've been to the 290 location twice and left very unimpressed both times. My personal favorite is Carl's down at 290 & Telge. Their sausage has got to be the best I've ever had and I have yet to find a place that matches it.
LOL, I almost tried Burn's today (old closed location); however, since I didn't know the status, I chose not to do another drive by (no pun intended) only to have to go elsewhere. At least I know about the new location now. Unfortunately, I felt that the "charm" of the old location was part of the appeal. I loved taking out-of-town coworkers to the old Burn's, sit outside, watch those cats fight over the scraps and the music downoading dealers sell their burned CD's. Do they at least have a fountain drink dispenser at this one, or is it still the change in the soda machine route? I'll have to try the regulars. My old standby was the pork rib sandwich.
BTW, Pechis, I really like Rudy's (as a matter of fact, I have 2 Rudy's cups on my desk as we speak), but Goode Co. has them beat as far as flavor. I prefer Rudy's over Thelmas due to the fact that I don't like Thelmas sauce, and I've always felt that Hickory Hollow is overrated - kind of like Goodson's cfs (well, and Hickory Hollow's cfs as well). Some of my current favority BBQ is at Four Corners (Channelview area) at Crosby Lynchburg and i-10 as well as Straight Off The Road BBQ in Crosby.
I've been going to the original location since '95 and Wwent to the new location for the first time a few weeks ago on a Saturday and was very dissapointed. The sauce has changed. It is no longer the tangy orange flavor, but now a darker smoke flavored (KC Masterpiece BBQ sauce??). Also the ribs were tough.
Thanks, Chris. I'm really glad Burns is back. I'm loyal to Pierson's but Burns is good stuff, too.
Whenever BBQ is written in Houston, it is always the same places shuffled around. Like it is a sacrament to mention others.
My parents raised me on BBQ and I have tried most of them. I always go back to the best -- Demeris on S. Shepherd at Alabama. I have eaten at this place since I could walk. The meat is good, there is a larger choice of sides, and the sauce is to die for. Demeris is a family business, with the same friendly people having worked there for decades.
And if you make it to Austin, don't believe the local hype. Go to Green Mesquite, Lamar at Barton Springs. This is the best BBQ I have ever eaten anyplace.
i'm honestly taken aback. i ate at demeris for the first time last week. i'd always heard mixed things about it, mostly not good. well my team at work decided to take a coworker in from out of town to get barbecue. they decided to take him to demeris.
wow, what bland, bland, food. it was like barbecue they would serve at an old folks home. i thought i was eating barbecue at the old gabby's at astroworld. i will never eat there again. i seriously feel bad for the guy from out of town (and embarrased for me) who'd never had texas barbecue before, because he's going to think that what he had at demeris is representative of what texans call good barbecue.
wow.
I'm glad Erica mentioned Demeris - they do have great bbq! I didn't know Williams had burned down. They had the best ribs!!!
Haven't been to the new place and most likely won't. My Father n law took us to the old location and it was really bad. Some of the worst BBQ I have ever had. We were craving some good BBQ and were so disapointed that we went and had BBQ somewhere else the next day to officially get our fix. My Father n law, who happens to live in Acres Homes, took us there only because we wanted BBQ but he never eats there and didn't order anything that day either. Now I know why.
Brother-in-laws on Freeport in East Houston is great, but the best ribs I've ever had came from RJ's Rib Joint Riverside Drive. Their sauce was amazing.
Tried Burns BBQ three times at the old location. Never thougt it was more than above average at best. When I want the good stuff, I head out I-10 to Luling or Lockhart or up to Livingston to Bodacious BBQ. But a good local place is No-Name BBQ on 225 in Pasadena. Tender brisket and good ribs and sausage.
I have tried Burn's bbq since Mr. Burns was selling it on the side of the road in Garden City on West Montgomery Rd in the 80's. Now that's when it was GOOD bbq. Over the years the taste has deminished, in my opinion. The brisket seems to have been boiled and has a rubbery texture. If you are in the market for some bbq try Thomas BBQ on the North Freeway at Tidwell. The homemade beef links are to die for! I am not a big fan of bbq chicken but their's is the best and not to mention their chopped beef potaoes. YUM Thomas' is the absolute best!!!
I didn't know Thomas BBQ was still there. They have THE best links, but I haven't been there in over 20 years. Good thing to know, I may have to swing by there this weekend.
After seeing Thelma's featured ont he Food channel, I tried it and was terribly disappointed. The sauce was too thick, and sweet -Overpowered the meat.
If you are ever in East Texas, try West Texas BBQ (go figure) in Silsbee, Texas. Some of the best home-made dry sausage I've ever tasted. The sides are worth the trip with home-made everything - including yeast rolls (yum!).
Save room for the home-made pies. This place is 100% family owned and operated.
West Texas BBQ is the only thing I miss after moving from the Beaumont area.
the bones in the photo look delicious
As much as I watch his show and do like it, Bourdain can sometimes get too full of himself. He probably does not know (or bother to know) much about Houston. Most people do not realize that Houston offers a vibrant array of wonderful food tastes and styles. Living here as I have from 1984-1985 then back in 1993 to present I saw the culinary landscape change thanks to the many cultural influences here. This is a city that rivals Chicago, New York (both of which I have visited countless times) as well as other cities in terms of gastronomic offerings. People that discount and don't investigate the variety of cuisine here in Houston just do not know what they are missing. Peace Out.
Cant beat Burns for local great BBQ!
The ORIGINAL old Matt Garners on West Gray was a childhood memory!
Triple J's Smokehouse on Homestead has the best ribs and brisket in Houston.
Burn's BBQ always tasted like the meat was done in a regular oven without any wood at all. Hopefully, that has changed. I'll give the new location a try or 2 or 3 and determine for myself. No wood smoke = no BBQ.
For the BEST BRISKET and RIBS, Gatlin's BBQ on W. 19th; try it, you'll LOVE it!
For the BEST BRISKET and RIBS, Gatlin's BBQ on W. 19th; try it, you'll LOVE it!
Ms. Finkelsteins I guarantee you WON'T be disappointed with Thomas' links. I'm getting hungry just thinking about them. Gotta go now, feel like chewing!!!! HA
I need to tell the boyfriend about these "regulars". HE EATS GRISTLE. It is so narsty. He thinks I'm a doofus for "believing it is inedible" LOL. MEN.
I agree with the assessment of Burns BBQ in the article. Nothing spectacular just average BBQ at best. However, it still beats Rudy's by a mile which ranks as the second worst BBQ I have ever had. Number one was off of a truck which was at FM 1960 and Jones Rd. years ago. It was billed as "Cajun BBQ" but no self-respecting Cajun would have cooked or eaten this garbage.
That is "wurst" to you, sir.
I have had the privilege of coming from a bbq family up in North Carolina and I will have to admit, I was not a wood-smoked BBQ fan until I tasted Burns BBQ. I understand everyone has their own taste and preferences, but the entire experience felt like home to me. From the young ladies at the counter taking my order, to my last bit of my beef and rib dinner I order. I even loved how they mix their links in with the beans. The food is delicious and above average. & coming from someone who is VERY particular about her BBQ, that is a grand compliment to Burns. Again this is just my humble opinion, but the food was outstanding. I had never heard of regulars though before I got to Houston, but the other customers raved about them. Maybe I will try them on my next visit.
-KD
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