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Sign on the door at Liberty Kitchen. Photo by Linda Salinas
Well, it's finally happened: I seem to have been banned from a restaurant. Liberty Kitchen, the new oyster-bar-and-local-beer joint that opened this week on Studewood in the Heights, has my name emblazoned on its door, captured inside a red circle with a slash through it.
I guess that means I'm not welcome.
Here's the backstory. Last year I gave an unfavorable review to BRC Gastropub, another restaurant owned and operated by chef Lance Fegen and managing partner Shepard Ross[CORRECTION: Ross is not affiliated with Liberty Kitchen], who made such a success of the Glass Wall.
Fegen complained mightily about my review in at least one online forum, alluding darkly to "all this trouble" he had had with me in the past. By which he apparently meant a brief and relatively mild mention of the Glass Wall in this blog post.
Fegen and Ross are talented guys, and I've said so more than once. I wrote a positive review of the Glass Wall and gave Fegen major props when he was at the late downtown Zula, where he first began making a name for himself locally.
The Big Red Cock of contention, outside BRC Gastropub. Photo by Alison Cook
When Glass Wall opened, I posted an admiring first look on my blog. Even at BRC, I found something to love and spotlight, writing a Burger Friday post praising the burger and the fine selection of craft brews on tap.
So I'm a little nonplussed that Fegen seems to think I have it in for him. I liked what I read about the concept of Liberty Kitchen (there are never enough oyster bars for me), and I was intrigued by the unusual beer program, which will offer craft brews solely from local Karbach Brewing, some of them made specifically for the restaurant.
Oh, well. Criticism can be hard to stomach, as I know only too well from reading my blog comments week in and week out.
I've got to admit I'm amused to see my name on a restaurant door with a red slash through it. I mean, I was once hung in effigy at a restaurant banquet, and I felt strangely honored.
And if the whole thing is just a sly publicity stunt to draw some attention to a new venture, I tip my hat.
awesome
What is the deal with the "White Plate" thing though?
I don't understand the "Warning: We use White Plates" tag line. Allison...do you also "have it in" for white plates!?!
I think the "white plates" reference may allude to the fact that I criticized an all-white-and-brown sandwich in a white bowl as being visually unappealing.
It's more likely attributable to Alison suggesting that they serve pimento in a ramekin rather than on a white plate.
But, let's face it, naming their joint Big Red Cock doesnt display a high level of maturity. But they do get kudos for not naming the new joint Slippery Throat Ticklers.
Tara, that's gotta be it. I never would have figured that out. Thanks for clearing up the mystery.
I think you are being very unjustly singled out in this case. I felt the the BRC was over-priced, badly run and the food was just not well done, except that it hit the soft spot in the In Crowd tastes. As for the Glass Wall, you must have had a much better time that the two times I took people there, as we all came away muttering and appalled. Yes they have a lot of talent, but I don't think it is especially well applied and although I love craft beers and like a couple of the Karbach brews very much, I think I will spend elsewhere, at least until the shine has rubbed off and they have got it whipped into shape.
I am glad you didn't get the head in the bulls-eye poster treatment.
Lance kicks arse!
I'm sure restauranteurs take criticism personally (it's human nature) but even if this is a publicity stunt, it still makes them seem very petty.
You would think restaurant owners and chefs would have a thick skin to be in that business. I bet restaurant critics have a thick skin. Must come with the territory.
And if BRC is so crowded all of the time, why would they even care about your review? Just goes to show food is only one part of the equation for restaurants. If anything it just brought them more (free) publicity.
Holding a grudge at their new restaurant because of your past review of their other restaurant is simply childish.
At least there are other restaurant critics in the city who'll do their reviews regardless.
Maybe the Liberty Kitchen guys formed a club with what's his name who bounced you from his steak place.
Arn't you assuming it's a publicity stunt?
Who cares? Aren't there like 165764378 other restaurants in Houston?
Exactly!
I think it was just plain rude of them.
It does bare mentioning that Shepard Ross is no longer a part of BRC and is definitely not affiliated with Liberty Kitchen. Also, Lance hasn't been a part of Glass Wall for some time. There are few if any professionals in the Houston restaurant/bar scene that are more accommodating and friendly than Shepard Ross. If more Sommeliers had his attitude and easy going nature there would be a lot more wine drinkers in this country.
It's unfortunate that anyone in this business would take themselves and what we do so seriously as to ban a person for politely airing there criticisms of an establishment. That said, to each there own.
Corrected. Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware that Ross wasn't in business with Fegen in the new venture, or the old one. I agree that he's terrific. Here's his bio from the current Glass Wall website
http://www.glasswalltherestaurant.com/GW_Site/about_shepard.html
I agree with Sean, Shepard is a font of wine info, pairing recommendations and all around good guy! Jorge has stepped up to the plate as head chef and produced some of our favorite meals in Houston- bravo to Glass Wall!
didn't see anything from Lance Feagan on your link....
You even appear above "No Smoking" on the sign. They really do dislike you. That said? I thought your review of BRC was on target and really no more harsh than other bad reviews I've read of other places by other reviewers. IMHO, BRC is overhyped and the food is marginal. It's a pub that serves food. However, that does not make it a gastropub, and it shouldn't be advertised as such.
Any business owner who would do that is not a business I want to frequent. If they would do that to someone over some past 'offense" either real or imagined, whose to say they wouldn't do something to my meal if I said or did something to upset them. I'll go somewhere else.
It does seem ironic to read this and them think about how unprofessional you acted at another Heights locale,Downhouse. As one who saw that fiasco, you might be able to draw a correlation to that slip up of yours and this Liberty Kitchen's sign.
Having already eaten there, and knowing full well the service was off due to just having opened, I loved the food and restaurant and will be back.
Oh yeah, I have never read anything you have written before this. I don't need someone telling me what's good and what's not.
Why don't you let everyone know how you got kicked out of a place for being "rude". I was a guest that night and saw it. Those in glass houses should not throw stones, Alison. .
Um, that was a different Allison, Allison Hiromi (well, that's her Twitter handle and the name under which she got ejected), whose name is spelled differently and who is not a restaurant critic. It would be a good idea to get your facts straight before claiming you saw me get "kicked out of a place."
I think you are the one living in a glass house right now.
You are an idiot.
Did someone really just confuse Alison Cook with Allie Matsu? Never speak again, your foot might explode out the back of your cranium. No really, unplug your computer and then drop it on your head in penance.
Edit: my captcha is kkkh8. No point, that's just awesome.
Oh damnit. I was wrong. Didn't you get kicked out of Jonathan's Rub??
Were you there, too?
Apologies. As I said I never read critics as I don't give a damn. I don't know one Alison from another and didn't know there was more than one critic around. Once again, if I cared about what you write aboutaybe I would know. take my own opinion. But I have also never been kicked out of anywhere, so at least I have that going for me. These owners and chefs provide jobs and incomes for lots of people, and in an economy like this that's great.
And The only reason I came across this is that I ate at Liberty and loved it and then googled the sign on the door as I did not understand it. Now I do- and will be going back to LK a lot.
TL;DR
Water and Drinker, as you've mentioned multiple times, you're ignorant in many different aspects regarding this topic.
" These owners and chefs provide jobs and incomes for lots of people, and in an economy like this that's great."
Actually, paying patrons make it possible for anyone in the service industry to take home wages. It is a group effort on the restaurant team's part to "court" the diner.
Ah, I gotta tell a related story... I live in CO now, but I miss the restaurants from my 40 years in Houston (Rice, then JSC). I actually was thrown out of a restaurant (if you can call a Shakey's beer, banjo, and pizza sing-along a restaurant). It was my first date with a nice lady, and I thought I'd take her to meet some of my cool Baylor medical student buddies. Bad mistake! They'd had a ripping exam that day, were completely blasted in celebration of its being over. They'd already been warned for their -- shall we say, "boisterous behavior" -- by the time my date and I arrived. Then my roommate, and eventual best man at my practice marriage (to a different woman than this date), threw up on the table. That was the final straw, and we were all evicted. To my date's credit she actually went out with me again, and we remain friends.
Did you walk up and see the sign or did someone let you know about it?
A friend Tweeted a photo from her camera phone and cc'd me on it. Have yet to see it with my own eyes.
Alison, perhaps they are flattering you. At any rate, you the quintessential food critic of Houston and possibly the entire universe.
ha, good one
Hey, all! Here's the straight scoop, right from the horse's mouth! I am currently an equal owner in BRC with Lance, Lee and Carl. I am also an owner/operator in Glass Wall. I am not affiliated with Liberty Kitchen. It's like the "I'm in a relationship and it's complicated" setting in Facebook. Think of the restaurant business as one big dysfunctional family(Maybe I'll pitch a show to Bravo). I'm a lover, not a fighter. I prefer to make friends, not enemies. I love wine, food, and entertaining people, plain and simple. Houston has been a great home to me for the last ten years and I've spent that time building a career that I am very proud of. I have always sought to bring clients, friends, and families together through great dining experiences. I am excited everyday to see old and new faces at Glass Wall and continue to take pride and have a whole lot of fun entertaining Houstonians. I am dedicated to my Heights neighborhood and look forward to new projects in the works that will only make it a better place to live and visit! My daughters brag to their friends that their dad is the best "restaurant guy" in the world. I spend my days trying to live up to their expectations. Ella Fitzgerald sang, "Accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative." Good advice. Cheers! -SR
That's a long post/advertisement without an explanation or "straight scoop" for the subject of this post. All you did was say how experienced and brilliant your kids think you are. QED.
Nice try Shep, but never once did you say you would never react in such a childish way to Alison's reviews and that she always acts with integrity and in a spirit of fairness. I discount your self serving response.
You're a jerk too. Do you and Culinary Curmudgen eat out a lot?
Great rely Shepard!! Don't listen to these "haters" they just stir the pot and don't like anyone. Not every place is for everyone, if you don't like it don't go there, if you do keep goings. Cash is the loudest voice.....
Why has nobody mentioned the disastrous stylistic choice of black letters on a black background? If you're going to put dumb signs on your restaurant, at least make sure they are legible!
Wow. Alison, this is just proof of your integrity, as if any was needed. We all know you are fantastic and we love you! As far as Liberty Kitchen, they probably won't last until this time next year. If you aren't upsetting the kiddie's once in a while you aren't doing your job.
This may be the dumbest f*#king thing I have ever seen. last time i checked a restaurant critic has one f*#king job...guess what you idiot it is to criticize a restaurants food and service. If it f*#king sucks then the critic is going to be honest. what a douchef*#kingbag...and by the way person named water and drinker...you just made my head hurt, if there is any justice in the world your fingers will fall off so no one ever has to read something you type anywhere ever again
Go Away... Just Go Away...
Man... you are seriously ill!
I stand with Alison. Don't Occupy Liberty Kitchen!
Tough one! As a restaurant owner and being under the pressure of the online media it is hard. You put everything in place (standards and procedures) and all it takes is one dumb ass employee to give a customer or a critic a bad experience. Your food is only as good as your service. Does the public know that we are solicited by services to "manager our online presence." So, does your favorite spot really have 5 stars or did they just buy them?
Well, this particular critic would never review based on a single experience, so the "one bad employee" argument doesn't really apply. I go three times at a minimum, so I have a chance to experience the restaurant under a variety of conditions, and to interact with a variety of employees. If the food has problems on one shift, I'll see if it recovers on a couple of other shifts. And nobody "buys" stars from me. They earn them by putting out a good product or experience.
Utter bollocks.
Can't we all get along?
Alison, I hope you the sign does not deter you from reviewing Liberty Kitchen.
As always I look forward to your insight
Another thing Alison, they did it just to make you column.
I am fairly certain that this is a 100 percent publicity stunt. Placing that sign on the door gave Liberty Kitchen a 100 percent chance of being written about in this space. It will also make people curious to go out and give the place a try. There is no such thing as bad publicity.
Glass Wall Rocks! BRC is mediocre and I will give Liberty Kitchen a fair shot.
Imagine this:
A salesperson calls a business. "Would you like to buy advertising in our publication?"
"No thank you." is the response.
After a "respectable time" passes the business is highlighted in the publication as being bad.
No connection, correct?
Correct. As difficult as it may be for you to imagine, I take my work and my reputation seriously. And nobody at the Chronicle or any of the other publications I have ever written for--including Texas Monthly, the Houston Press, Esquire, the New York Times Sunday magazine, Gourmet, Saveur, Food & Wine, House & Garden, Vogue, Business Week, GQ, etcetera--has ever suggested I tailor any of my reporting to suit advertisers. That isn't how respectable publications work.
It also may be difficult for you to imagine this, but if any publication ever suggested I tailor my reporting to suit an advertiser, or to punish a non-advertiser, I would quit on the spot.
I love Saveur! #offtopic
Well, this post is now linked on the front page of chron.com, so if that sign was intended as a publicity stunt, I'd have to say "mission accomplished".
me, too. My guess is it was a twofer: publicity bait coupled with lingering snit fit.
I do appreciate posts like this.... helps me relieve any curiosity to try BRC or it's brethren. First things first, when you appeal to juvenille Bevis and Butthead humor to sell food it's like the movie where the trailer represents the best 3 minutes of footage... (think Caddyshack II or any number of sequels). Lashing out at someone on the door of your restaurant just screams shortsighted. For all I know Allison's taste is not the same as mine... .although I do think we agree on certain over-hyped TexMex restaurants with aggressive valet. Bottom line is that anytime a Chef or Restauranteur takes the low road on the front door - the food isn't getting the attention it deserves. I certainly won't be eating at any of these 3 establishments.
I have to agree. Too much drama. This is as bad as the tit for tat tweeting episode with Down House.
Alison should have taken the high road and just ignored this and their restaurant.
Curious Alison, why the response?
Because it amused me and I figured it might lead to some interesting discussion.
I wouldn't rely on a food critics opinion of any restuarant --it is just their lousey opinion and that is probably effected by their mood that day or if they like the chef or owner, etc. I really don't hold any of them in high regard. Most critic's are just cooks who couldn't cut it.
Do you have any idea how ignorant and ill-informed your comment sounds?
It's affected, not effected. Affect is a verb, effect is a noun. Grammatical errors make it difficult to take your point seriously.
I'm headed to Liberty Kitchen tonight! I'm told they cut all their meat with the "axe to grind" that Cook usually carries.
I am waiting until they offer "
nachos as big as your arse"!!
I think I'll just stick to Applebees.
Sounds like the Houston "dining scene" is dysfunctional, like a soap opera or something.
I grew up in the Bay Area, where restaurants are actually taken seriously. Nationally. I also used to live in Phoenix and Las Vegas, where restaurants are also actually taken seriously. Nationally.
Industry players, and no, I am not in the restaurant "business," act a LOT more grown up than this.
Stuff like this turns me off from "dining out". If I had more than $20-25 to spend per plate for a nice dinner and evening out, I'll go to a national chain.
Talk to me when Lawry's the Prime Rib comes to Houston.
Applebees? Seriously?
That's dipping down in the barrel...
Is this a joke?
I also used to live in Phoenix and visit Las Vegas frequently. Phoenix is not even worth discussing aside from the famed "Cheese Crisp" I can only get there, and Houston stands up with Vegas in terms of taste and variety, and is much cheaper in price.
So please do stick to Applebee's, that way I know I'll never run into you and your whiney, misinformed rants.
Hahaha. Ive only read Allison cook once before. I normally stick to the front page news. Some of the topics and off topics in the comments is funny. Micmac99, Lawry's Prime Rib will come to Houston when you go to the store and buy their seasoning and some prime ribs. Otherwise get on their website and write them a 'note' about how Harris and Montgomery county is growing and we need a restaurant like theirs, here. Seriously.
cmkb I already did about a year ago, and they said they were going to open downtown in Houston Pavillions but the economy tanked. I'll be the first in line when they do come here. Maybe someone locally will copy their concept. I've seen people's YouTube videos of their Lawry's experience and it looks like fun, and well worth the price. Something the average middle-class family (for which Applebee's is just fine, thank you very much) can do maybe once or twice a year.
I think I'd take it as a tongue in cheek statement and laugh with them. And also as a compliment. The guy named a restaurant after a wave, he's a surfer dude, how mature do you expect him to be? I can't wait to try Liberty Kitchen. I've heard good things so far. Hopefully, I'll also get to compare my experience to Alison's.
Well I have never eaten at any of these places, and didn't know who allison was....but now I am going to try them all and also follow her columns...ha...the publicity works! I live north so not down that way too much...but now I am intrigued.
Here's what you need to do, Alison: Just use the new Houston Press model of restaurant criticism - in which you are basically nothing but a chef groupie*. Become "friends" with the restaurant owners, because it makes you feel cool. Give them great reviews, not because their food's good, but because you're seeking their favor.
That'll get ya in the door.
*I know this might sound weird at first. You've got to let your journalistic integrity and any personal self-esteem fall apart, then it'll make perfect sense.
It may be a publicity stunt but i still find myself completely uninterested in trying the new restaurant and generally unwilling to go to a place that throws a temper tantrum about poor reviews instead of trying to better the establishment.
all critics everywhere (food,movie,etc.)should be bar-b-qued.you are all worthless.i don't need to ckeck with someone to be told what like or don't like.
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see where Alison spoke with them about this or where they actually contacted her and requested she not come. I also don't see anything about Alison being refused entry to the restaurant. If I were a critic I would get a kick out of it. It's probably intended to be good natured joshing like celebrities poke fun at each other but good naturedly. Like Hope and Crosby for example. Maybe they thought Alison would get it and take it as a light-hearted jab. I don't know. Either way, it doesn't seem particularly scandalous or insulting. Really nothing to get upset over.
Do I seem upset to you?
Not you - the commenters. You always appear fair and level headed to me.
This is much ado about nothing. I ate there last night - really enjoyed it immensely, despite the kitchen being a bit overwhelmed by an early Sunday night crowd. I walked in and out twice, knowing full well about the sign and couldn't find it until I actually asked about it. It's tiny and it's in the bottom side door panel. I'm sure it's a tongue-in-cheek ploy for publicity (it worked), but really, I wouldn't get my feathers ruffled over it. I found it amusing actually. Our food was tasty, FYI. I much prefer it over BRC.
But what if you put on a wig? Then you can see the white plates yourself. Keep being awesome Alison!
I thought restaurant critics were supposed to review restaurants anonymously. Obviously you are not very anonymous in Houston's restaurant scene. Because if you were, you wouldn't have any problem going into the restaurant and reviewing it, and no one would know who you were.
Unfortunately very few restaurant critics are anonymous anymore in the era of cellphone cameras, Google Images and 24/7 online information saturation. For much of my reviewing career in Houston I did manage to retain a good measure of anonymity, and I still can dine unrecognized in a lot of restaurants. The high profile places, where there's a revolving cadre of staff that goes from one hotspot to the next? Not so much. Part of that is a function of having lived and reviewed in the same city for many years, and having held higher-public-profile jobs that didn't involve restaurant coverage.
Would I rather dine anonymously? Absolutely. Do I think a restaurant can magically produce good food if I am recognized? Absolutely not. I get plenty of subpar food even when a restaurant knows I'm there. They CAN change the service, but that is not necessarily a plus, because often they lay it on too thick.
I do try to level the playing field by reserving under different names, just walking in without a booking, and going at odd times when the full court front-of-the-house press may not be in effect.
Seeking a refuge from ever more T-giving leftovers, we (me, the wife, and the kids) struck out on foot for LK last Sat evening. The meal was pretty good. The french fries were a little over-seasoned and my wife didn't think much of the ice berg lettuce that served as the bowl for her crab salad. Otherwise everything was tasty and the staff was extremely attentive and friendly. As for the serving devices, we got a kick out of the surplus school lunch trays used for the kids' meals. The only draw-back with the atmosphere were the usual d-bags in their embroidered button down shirts (untucked) that seem to be the de rigueur uniform of the Washington Corridor crowd.
I take no sides in any of this. I enjoy reading AC's reviews. Even if I don't agree with her, she at least gives me a sense of what to expect. I liked LK, I continue to dislike BRC, and Glass Wall continues to perplex me; ie, high-priced, artistically executed, cheap food. I am both impressed and appalled with them.
What a great comment. Yours is the spirit in which I wish readers would approach my work. I don't write to tell people what to like or what not to like. That's their call, obviously. Tastes and palates differ. But what I do hope my opinions and analysis will provide is a point of departure for thinking and talking about restaurants in Houston. Any lively food culture benefits from an ongoing conversation or dialectic.
Don't agree with me? Tell me why in an interesting, thoughtful way. I'll benefit from that, and so may other people.
I just read your article "Dealing with real-life restaurat traumas" and you make yet another reference about foie gras. Surely you know how it is made. It is extreemly cruel and has been banned in some places so far. Could you at least do some research and get the whole story on this barbaric process and MAYBE you too will see why it is being banned (hopefully everywhere someday)?
There isn't a red slash through your name. The "don't" sign is clearly behind your name. Play it up.
Hey, Alison, another new Heights restaurant (ours!) has a sign with your name on it at their front door!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151003969715374&set=at.2339174...
FYI
Smart free marketing on Feagan's behalf.
I wish they'd let you in so I could know to do the opposite of what you recommend. That's right, very very often I am quite disappointed by the places Alison recommends and on several occasions was quite pleased with places she disliked. She's worse than most movie critics... Unfortunately the Chronicle carries her poor reviews so I keep getting exposed to them like an albino with his shirt off...
Hah - I thought the article is hilarious - a critic being surprised at being criticized! How dare she write an article about how someone else feels about her. What kind of ego trip is she on....btw I am not in the restaurant biz.