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Raspberry Millefeuille at Salé-Sucré French Bistro on White Oak. Photo by Alison Cook
I am not one of those diners who lives for dessert. Often I order it more from a sense of professional duty than out of desire for something sweet at the end of my meal. But if more desserts were like the raspberry millefeuille I encountered at Sale-Sucre recently, I think I might change my tune.
This modest new family-run French bistro on White Oak is tucked into a strip center between Fitzgerald's and the bustling Onion Creek. Chef Philippe Harel happens to be a pastry specialist, which explains the backlit pastry case at the rear of the restaurant. These are precise, formal French pastries, befitting Harel's training at LeNotre Paris, and I wound up goggling at them appreciatively while I waited to order at the bar.
When dessert rolled around (more about the salé, or savory, part of my meal presently), I knew not to pass it up. And the triple-decker Raspberry Millefeuille was nothing short of a dream: billows of barely sweetened whipped cream studded with fresh raspberries and sandwiched between crisp, thin layers of flaky pastry. Okay, there weren't a thousand of them (millefeuille is French for "thousand-leaf"), but they were lovely.
Dining room at Sale Sucre on White Oak. Photo by Alison Cook
Sale Sucre. Photo by Alison Cook
Sale Sucre. Photo by Alison Cook
I basically inhaled that dessert, which is quite unlike me. I couldn't get over how light the effect was, how pure the textures, how subtle and satisfying the flavors. It left me wanting to sample the rest of Harel's sucré repertoire.
I'll also come back with pleasure to drink some wine from the delightfully French list, and to sample more broadly though the menu. It's a bit of a mixed bag, mixing crepes with a selection of bistro entrees and some substantial first courses suitable for grazing or a light meal. And while the quality varied, the best dishes were fun to eat: most notably a democratic version of Tournedos Rossini with a thin slice of seared foie gras on top.
The beef filet was seared perfectly rare, and it reminded me that a filet can be a pleasure, even if it's one scorned by prime steak snobs. Once I had smooshed the side relish of fig chutney through the sauce of dark pan juices smoothed with a bit of butter, and added a half bottle of 2008 Domaine de la Garenne Bandol bursting with resinous hillside herbs, I was pretty much in heaven.
Or I would have been, had the sides with this rustic edition of a fine dining warhorse not been so disappointing. There was a sort of twice-baked potato that was barely lukewarm; and a similarly tepid melange of carrots and mushrooms housed in an enameled cast-iron mini-pot that was used for show rather than for conducting and maintaining heat.
At least the little enameled cast-iron pot for my first course of Escargots Bourguignonne was used as the kitchen gods intended. It came to the table so hot that the garlic butter swamping the plump snails was practically bubbling. Nice version. I kind of wished I had a cone of twice-fried frites, like my neighbor at the counter, just so I could dip them in the butter.
Sale Sucre. Photo by Alison Cook
There's a certain rakish, post-graduate appeal to the bits and pieces of Salé-Sucré's decor. It's flea-markety and sort of devil-may-care, which seems right for this eccentric little business.
Service seemed disorganized the night I visited, but it was charming: both from the waiters and from Philippe and Béline Harel's son, who's quick to recommend the right wine and may even produce something that's not on the list yet.
I'll be curious to see how this unassuming, rough-edged restaurant develops. It's already a source for at least one of the best desserts in Houston, and it's a funky spot for some holiday grazing and toasting, with 8 different champagnes and sparkling wines by the glass or (half) bottle, starting at $8 and $20 respectively.
Salé Sucré storefront on White Oak in the Heights. Photo by Alison Cook
Salé-Sucré, 2916 White Oak Blvd., 713-623-1406. L&D Monday — Friday 11 a.m. — 10 p.m.; BL&D Saturday & Sunday 7 a.m. — 10 p.m.)
Sounds like a place we have been needing for some time, Alison. We love you for finding it for us.
thanks, intrepid. I mean it!
Hi Alison,
I was very surprised at this review! That "millefeuille" appears not to be lacking a few layers, but made of exactly 3 tuiles and disproportionate amounts of whipped cream. It could just be the picture but the fact that the restaurant is calling that a millefeuille is a red flag. Another one red flag is that odd, comically small lump of foie with no sear marks that looks like it was probably cooked on too low heat by the lack of sear marks and presence of pink congealed blood/fat on top (though the steak looks well-seared on the outside). I'm going to have to pass. The only reason I care is because I've been looking forward to the day when I get get a proper tartare de boeuf et frites at a proper bistro in Houston at a reasonable price! :)
Sorry, pottywu. as I noted in the text, there were not a thousand layers but the pastry was fabulous. You weren't there to taste it. I was. Same with the admittedly rustic version of the tournedos--not a big-deal fine dining version, but winning nonetheless. You should try it before you write it off. Or not.
I don't argue the taste. I'm sure it was every bit as delicious to you as you say. However, calling it a mille-feuille when it is so clearly not makes the establishment seem ignorant or apathetic when it might not be. Personally I've been so jaded by the many Americanized or Texas-ized cuisine around (which can also be delicious and have its own place) that I would proceed with caution based on such a seemingly small detail. No one wants fine dining. Just good food, reasonably priced like I said. I'm sorry I seem to have offended you based on your curtness. Was not my intention.
You know, chefs of all kinds take liberties with classic concepts, riffing on them in various ways and keeping the original names as a kind of hat tip. Happens every day. It never bothers me as long as the results are good--in fact, I find it entertaining. Your mileage may vary. I clearly note in my piece that it's not the classic "thousand-leaf" treatment.
Alison, as usual you are right on the money, but my pet peeve is when a chef calls a dish by a specific name without referring to it as being either "deconstructed" or "a variation of."
For example, the chef at Coppa claims to have a spaghetti carbonara dish on the menu. However, she uses mortadella (which we Texas call bologna) instead of pancetta or salt pork. Plus, she omits the eggs and butter, which are central to the dish.
Now, I may be finicky, but there's no way in Hades I'd call that a "spaghetti carbonara," regardless of what the chef says. And unless it tasted like a proper carbonara, I'd be sending it back.
Getting to your dessert dish, as long as it has the right ingredients and is prepared at least visually the same way, then it could be called a millefeulle a la maison. But that's just me.
Ditto to what Intrepid said - this place is exactly what we've been needing in Houston ever since Chez Georges went bust. Sale-Sucre is a nice, quiet French bistro that is unpretentious on the outside, but inside you find delicious cuisine at reasonable prices.
What really attracted me was the picture of the table d'hote menu board. A three-course lunch for $15? With crepes? I'm SO there!
Thanks, Alison! :-)
Excellent review and it closely reflects my experience there. I wonder if your waiter was the same we had. Charming French kid about 20? Again, he knew exactly what wine to recommend and confirmed what we had been told about seeking out 2009 vintages from the Provence region. I also had the filet which was cooked perfectly (seared and rare for my taste), though I could have left the foie gras on the plate. I tried a bite of it and while it added a nice richness to the meet (almost like a pat of butter), the texture was a little off-puting. My side, a steamed vegetable medley in that same pot that you described, was boring and seemed like an afterthought. Next time I will ask for the frites.
The folks who are so quick to dismiss it should consider the context. Sale-Sucre is an easy going neighborhood bistro without the pretension of Houston's other well known French places like Cafe Rabelais or Au Petit.
We've been for brunch three times in the past month and a half. Affordable and yummy. I'm surprised more people haven't caught on to this place by now.
That dessert looks like three fried wonton wrappers with some Reddi Whip sandwiched in between....But i'm sure it tastes much better than that.
Alison, I almost always agree with your reviews, but sadly not on this one. I really wanted to like it, as so many have said, we need a place like this in Houston, but going there for lunch today, I was severely disappointed. Mediocre French onion soup I could live with, but my crepe... The salmon was incredibly overcooked, again, I can live with what is maybe just a bad chef day, but the savory crepe was awful. Had a hint of sweetness to it that makes me believe they use the same batter for the savory as well as the sweet ones, and it was soft and much to thick. Savory crepes are supposed to be thin and crispy, there's no argument to be had about that. I just desperately wanted this place to be like the ones you find in France, and it really really isn't.
well, alas. It was one meal, and I was by myself - not a full review based on multiple visits with other people sampling a wide variety of dishes. I enjoyed myself, enough to write a blog post. I'm sorry you had a bad experience.
Happy you enjoyed yourself, and I didn't mean to come across as someone who is warning people off that place, because, like I said, I really wanted to like it, the location is great for me, and every kitchen can have an off day. I was just hoping for a genuine French bistro experience, and it was everything but. Nice room, but the dishes where oh so lacking. The only place in Houston I've had a good savory crepe is Melange, maybe my expectations where too high, and maybe this is what people want/expect. There's a place in midtown that does the exact same thing to their crepes.
I hear you. In fact a couple months back I wrote a story generally bemoaning the state of crepes, both savory and sweet, in Houston. Like you, I think Melange sets such a high standard that others are found wanting.
Alison, have you ever tried the crepes at Jeanine's Bistro? Magnifique!
Salé Sucré is located on a particularly unattractive span of White Oak in a small, generic strip center just off Studewood not far from I-10 but you'll see the restaurant's glow before you even enter. And once in, you will be quickly enveloped by a welcoming, warm sensibility.
There aren't any other places in the nearby area that offer such nuanced French bistro fare. This lack of competition is both a blessing and a curse, translating into generally higher prices than one would normally expect to pay for the inconsistent quality and simple menu.
Philippe Harel and his wife Béline are the husband-wife entrepreneurial duo behind Salé Sucré. Unfussy yet dignified, Salé Sucré is relaxed but possesses a certain sophistication. On a Thursday evening when we visited the live music's volume was much too loud for the small space, precluding any attempt at having a conversation with our guests while eating. The music was good but left our heads throbbing by the end of the evening.
The waiters know about the food, and they're attentive without being overbearing. While well-intentioned, the bartender and small wait staff can be easily overwhelmed resulting in service that is often slow. You will need to be patient.
The order of service was disjointed and somewhat surreal. After an extended wait, our bottle of wine arrived while we were still wondering what happened to our cocktail order. Our cocktails arrived half-way through the appetizers. After several requests, bread (a single small loaf) initially made an appearance mid-way through the meal.
Once the bread arrived it was a joy in the form of a single miniature, delicious peasant baguette. Unfortunately, it was too small to adequately share between our party of four diners. Luckily, after several further requests, additional loaves began arriving at oddly-timed intervals.
The small menu, still apparently a work in progress, includes a lengthy list of both savory and sweet crêpe dishes, plus starters that include pan-fried Camembert served with spinach salad and honey dressing. The chef uses fresh herbs, which are well sourced and typically incorporated in well-chosen combinations. Main lunch entrees are somewhat pricey, and dinners are even more expensive. We found many menu items to be either over or under-seasoned resulting in food that was generally good but inconsistent, missing the mark of being great. The moules marinières in particular were bland due to inadequate seasoning and cooked for much too long resulting in an unpleasant, rubbery texture. The baked camembert was very salty due to an overly free-hand with the seasoning.
Salé Sucré is a good choice for simple bistro fare, like savory or sweet crepes and frites. Dining at Salé Sucré isn't perfect --but unfortunately it's about as close as you'll get to Paris within this area of the Heights.
DON'T MISS
THE SPACE Situated in a nondescript strip center, this bistro has an interior that is an entirely different story, with a welcoming bar and a handful of colorful tables creating a dining area with a warm French bistro feel. Soft lighting, wood floors and scattered cushioned seats along with a long cushioned wall bench create a cozy atmosphere. Seating in the bistro is snug and it can get uncomfortably loud, particulary if there is live music. A small but pleasant outdoor front patio is ideal for lunch or brunch during good weather. Wheelchair accessible.
THE CROWD Runs the gamut, from couples out for a romantic meal and singles at the bar to groups and families (There is a children's menu available but rambunctious children would not be appropriate). Great date spot or for small groups. Dress is casual.
THE BAR The centerpiece is a nice selection of premium liqueurs and alcohols, The restaurant offers both specialty cocktails and wines by the glass or bottle. The small wine list features French wines of varying quality and price.
THE BILL Entrees from $19 to $26; specials as high as $34. Major credit cards accepted.
WHAT WE LIKED Baked camembert, French fries, mixed greens salad, New Zealand lamb ribs served with mashed potatoes and vegetables ($18) and Tornedos Rossini: beef with foie gras, fig chutney with vegetables and frites ($24).
IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Sunday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended, especially for Friday and Saturday nights. Free private parking lot across the street from the restaurant. The Harels also run a custom bakery business on-site for weddings and special events.
RATINGS Overall O.K. but not great. Fairly expensive for bistro fare with slow but well-intentioned service and dishes of inconsistent quality. Has the potential to evolve but would not visit again anytime soon. . Only the test of time will tell if Salé Sucré can survive long enough to mature and realize its full potential.