Not that there was anything glaringly wrong with the regular fresh-cut French fries I ordered, although they were markedly better when they were first served than when they had lost a little heat. But the beet fries I sampled on a subsequent visit were memorable enough that I am still thinking about them.
There was a soft, earthy tone and a slight sweetness to the circular chips, heightened by a texture that crunched satisfyingly before melting away on the tongue, like a transient morning fog. That made the chips seem light on their feet and possibly even good for me, although my brain told me otherwise.
Never mind. The fluffed-up garlic aioli served with the beet fries wasn't exactly health food, either, but it sure was good.
Two people could split an order of beet chips, simple sea=salted and peppered, and still devour one of Guru's substantial Akaushi beef burgers without feeling unduly stuffed, the way regular French fries or the restaurant's sweet potato fries might leave you.
Truth to tell, I'd be happy sitting out on the terrace here at Sugar Land Town Square with a plate of beet fries and a local beer on tap, just enjoying the fallish weather.
I imagine eating them slowly, deliberately, so that I can pick up each crisp circle and admire it: the deep magenta color; the crystalline flash of sea salt; and the concentric rings that lurk beneath the brittle crust, as if they were growth rings on some ancient tree.
(Guru Burgers & Crepes, 2268 Texas Drive, Sugar Land Town Square. 281-313-0026. Monday — Thursday 11 a.m. — 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 11 a.m. — 11 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. — 9 p.m.)