Houston chefs named as James Beard semifinalists

    Some leading figures on Houston's food scene have been named semifinalists for the 2011 James Beard Restaurant & Chef Awards, often described as the Oscars of the food world. (Disclosure: I serve on the committee that superintends the balloting for the awards.)

    On the ballot list of 20 names competing for Best Chef Southwest, a region that includes states from Nevada through Texas, will be chefs Bryan Caswell of Reef and Randy Rucker of Bootsie's Heritage Cafe in Tomball.

    Chef Bryan Caswell at Reef: Photo by Brett CoomerChef Bryan Caswell at Reef: Photo by Brett Coomer

    Caswell, who is also the founding chef at Stella Sola and Little Big's, a casual slider joint on Montrose, is coming off a year in which he appeared on the Next Iron Chef show and made plans for another restaurant, El Real Tex-Mex, a concept he hatched with Houston food writer Robb Walsh. It is scheduled to open this spring.

    Chef Randy Rucker and his mother, Bootsie Nicol, at Bootsie's Heritage Cafe: Photo by Melissa PhillipChef Randy Rucker and his mother, Bootsie Nicol, at Bootsie's Heritage Cafe: Photo by Melissa Phillip

    Randy Rucker, who appears on the Beard Awards ballot for the first time, leads the talented young team that has turned Bootsie's Heritage Cafe--in the space of a year--from a spot serving twists on Gulf Coast comfort food to a tasting-menu laboratory for modern dishes using foraged and intensely local ingredients, including some from its own farm. The restaurant is named for Rucker's mother and business partner, Bootsie Nicol, a frequent presence in the front of the house.

    Bootsie's Heritage Cafe also made the cut for the Outstanding New Restaurant balloting, a national category that includes such names as chef Sean Brock's Husk in Charleston, S. C. and chef Tyson Cole's Uchiko in Austin.

    Bootsie's Heritage Cafe in Tomball. Photo by Alison Cook.Bootsie's Heritage Cafe in Tomball. Photo by Alison Cook.

    Michael Cordua, founding chef of Churrascos and the Americas mini-empire, will appear on the ballot for Outstanding Restaurateur, a national category that also includes such names as Philadelphia's Stephen Starr and Chicago's Richard Melman. Cordua recently opened Americas River Oaks location, another showcase for the stunning contemporary restaurant design he has pioneered in the city. His influence has helped to make South American cuisine a strong factor in Houston.

    Chef Michael Cordua at the new Americas River Oaks: Photo by Melissa PhillipChef Michael Cordua at the new Americas River Oaks: Photo by Melissa Phillip

    Bobby Heugel, the mixologist behind cutting-edge Anvil Bar & Refuge, will appear on the ballot for Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional, another national category in the awards. Through his work as a cocktail consultant at Haven, Catalan, the original Ninfa's on Navigation and projects outside the state, Heugel has been a catalyst for progress on the food & beverage scene, as well as the instigator of collaborative projects with such talents as barista David Buehrer of Greenway Coffee & Tea.

    Anvil's Bobby Heugel: Photo by Alison CookAnvil's Bobby Heugel: Photo by Alison Cook

    Robert del Grande, of restaurant RDG + Bar Annie, will appear on the ballot for what is perhaps the most prestigious of the national awards, Outstanding Chef. This is reserved for working chefs whose careers have set national standards in the industry, and whose work has served as an inspiration for others in the profession. Del Grande is coming off a busy year in which he planned the two new restaurants: the recently opened Ava, a Mediterranean spot in the glossy West Avenue development on Kirby and Westheimer; and Pizzeria Alto, a yet-to-open restaurant in the same location.

    Robert del Grande at RDG Bar Annie: Photo by Dave RossmanRobert del Grande at RDG Bar Annie: Photo by Dave Rossman

    Houstonians will also find some familiar Texas names scattered throughout the ballot. Joining Caswell and Rucker on the list for Best Chef Southwest will be Tyson Cole of Austin's Uchi and Uchiko; Teiichi Sakurai of Tei-An, the rarefied Dallas soba house; Bruce Auden of San Antonio's Biga on the Banks; and Armando Pomales of Cafe Central in El Paso.

    Cole in particular has a legion of Houston fans, and he is scheduled to open an outpost here that will combine features of both Uchi and Uchiko. And Auden first made his Texas name in Houston at Charley's 517. His new casual restaurant, Auden's Kitchen, opened in San Antonio this year to good notices.

    Paul Qui, the young Filipino-American chef who is in charge of the kitchen at Tyson Cole's Uchiko in Austin, is in the running for Rising Star Chef, an award reserved for chefs 30 years old and under who are likely to have an impact in years to come. In addition to serving as chef de cuisine at the excellent new Uchiko, Qui contributes to Austin's lively food truck culture with his popular cart, called East Side King.

    Phillip Speer, the pastry chef at Uchi and Uchiko, appears on the ballot for Outstanding Pastry Chef.

    Chef Stephan Pyles, of the restaurant of the same name in Dallas, is in the national-level hunt along with del Grande for the title of Outstanding Chef.

    The Mansion restaurant in Dallas, at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek hotel, is in the national running for Outstanding Restaurant; while Dallas's French Room (in the Adolphus) and Cafe on the Green (in the Four Seasons Dallas Resort at Las Colinas) are in line for the Outstanding Service and Outstanding Wine Service awards, respectively.

    The current round of voting by past winners and over 200 regional panelists will whittle the lists to five finalists in each category. They will be announced in Portland, OR on March 21. Winners will be named at Lincoln Center in New York City on May 9, 2011.

    2011 James Beard Foundation Awards Restaurant and Chef Award Semifinalists

    Comments

    foodlover Thu, 02/17/2011 - 9:32am

    Congratulations to these fine Chefs who have really helped to make Houston dining World Class!

    A Person Too Lazy To Register Thu, 02/17/2011 - 9:33am

    Ava is at West Ave, not West End. Unless you were speaking geographically, and then I'm not sure it qualifies as West End.

    Ava's food is delicious, and the bartending is even better. Plus I love the ladies' restroom. SO PRETTY!

    Alison Cook Thu, 02/17/2011 - 9:39am

    You are quite right. Too early in the morning for me to marshall all these details. Will fix and thank you!

    Alison Cook Thu, 02/17/2011 - 9:41am

    PS love your screen name, A Person Too Lazy to Register!

    Noneya Thu, 02/17/2011 - 11:33am

    Go Bryan Caswell!!!!

    A Person Too Lazy To Register Thu, 02/17/2011 - 12:20pm

    If you haven't been to Ava, you should definitely go. I've never seen a restaurant so on top of things a week into being open. Plus the Key Lime Martini is freaking amazing. And that's not an honor I give to most. I reserve that for the BEST. It's creamy and delicious and tart and just a bit sweet, but not cloying. I love the little foam that floats on top.

    :) Yeah, I might actually register with that name. It makes me smile, but that might be overly ironic.

    Patrick1492 Thu, 02/17/2011 - 4:28pm

    Alison,

    I don't know if you've seen it but what is your take (if you have one) on Hanna Raskin's story in the Dallas Observer from a couple of months back, "Homesick Restaurants: How Dallas Became a Dining Nowhereville"?

    http://www.dallasobserver.com/2010-12-09/news/homesick-restaurants-how-d...

    I ask because your listing of all the Texas chefs named as semi-finalists included some mentioned in some Raskin's story and it was the subject of a segment on the Southbound Food show from this past weekend.

    Patrick1492 Thu, 02/17/2011 - 4:58pm

    Bracing for the flood of "Tomball isn't in Houston" hate mail in 3...2...1...

    EatDrinkHouston Thu, 02/17/2011 - 8:13pm

    Great piece, Alison. They make us Houstonians proud!
    Congrats to all the well-deserving semi-finalists.

    @EatDrinkHouston

    By the way,
    Underneath Bobby's picture you have 2 words overlapping each other.
    "whose work has served as an inspiration for others [int he] profession."
    Just thought you'd want to correct it.

    Alison Cook Fri, 02/18/2011 - 10:18am

    you're right. thanks for the sharp eye. hate when that happens.

    Jon 1957 Sat, 02/19/2011 - 3:00pm

    Alison,

    Always enjoy your knowledgable pieces...good luck to all of the nominees, especially the prolific Bryan Caswell. Go Reef!

    Jon 1957 Sat, 02/19/2011 - 3:00pm

    Alison,

    Always enjoy your knowledgable pieces...good luck to all of the nominees, especially the prolific Bryan Caswell. Go Reef!

    chefspop Tue, 02/22/2011 - 3:30pm

    Thanks for this piece, and for mentioning the Austin nominees. Future reference: Philip Speer spells his name with one L. How do I know? I named him!

    chefspop

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