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Chef Jonathan Jones upstairs at El Xuco Xicana.: Craig H. Hartley/Chron
The owner of midtown’s El Patio rolled the dice last year when he brought on chef Jonathan Jones to rebrand the restaurant that became the critical hit El Xuco Xicana.
Unfortunately, Jon Deal admits, he rolled snake eyes.
Jones and Xuco Xicana have parted ways.
Xuco Xicana – an ambitious Tejano-style Mexican menu which Jones called “comida Texano” – simply didn’t catch on with the dining public and was losing money, co-owner and managing partner Deal said Monday. Jones’ menu, popular with foodies, never found a wide following, Deal said, adding that he’s as disappointed as anyone that the concept failed.
“I, like many people in town, felt that [Jones] hit a home run with what he was doing. But the market didn’t accept it. I guess I overestimated what we could do. I really thought we could create a destination,” Deal said. “It just didn’t work out.”
Deal said that he had informed Jones more than a week ago, per a gentlemen’s agreement they had, that “it was time to dust off his resume.”
“I’ve lost all the money I could lose,” Deal said.
Jonathan Jones' fish tacos at Xuco Xicana: Craig H. Hartley/Chron
(On Sunday Jones was set to host a preplanned party upstairs at Xuco Xicana which became something of a goodbye party for the popular chef.)
What becomes of Xuco Xicana as a restaurant and a brand remains unclear at this point. The fact that Deal calls the restaurant El “XX” (which he pronounces “El Double X”) says something about the former El Patio’s identity crisis during the time it was El Xuco Xicana. The young midtown crowd that Deal said he hoped to attract may have come to drink but weren’t warming to Jones’ critically lauded comida.
“If we’re going to continue to operate at that location we have to figure out how to cater to that market,” Deal said. “We weren’t delivering what they wanted. They simply didn’t come.”
According to Culturemap.com's Sarah Rufca, Jones said his separation from XX was “a necessary move” because “Midtown demographic is not supporting the biz.”
Upstairs bar at Xuco Xicana: Melissa Phillip/Chron
Deal said he and his partners are mulling changes for the restaurant/bar that for now is keeping the Xuco Xicana menu. But he might bring back some of El Patio’s classic menu items. “I don’t’ anticipate completely doing away with what he’s done,” Deal said. “What he’s put on the menu is great stuff unique to the city.”
Yet, Deal added, “If we’re going to move past anything, it’s got to be beyond Xuco Xicana.”
He said that he is meeting with his restaurant staff today and also talking with partners about the direction El “XX” will take.
He had only praise for Jones, which he called his “food hero.”
“I can’t imagine he doesn’t have a list of people calling him right now,” Deal said of Jones. “He’s super talented and creative.”
*
Late Monday we heard from Jones, who said he bears no ill will to Deal to is disappointed that Xuco Xicana never gained popular steam.
“I’m upset that people didn’t see how beautiful it is,” Jones said. “It’s very emotional for me. I put my heart and soul in everything I do. I get really attached to my concepts.”
He said he understands that Deal and his partners needed to cut their losses. “I believe differently than they do about the concept. But the long and short of it is it’s their restaurant and their money,” he said. “They have to be very much more concerned about what’s happening to them in the long run. Nobody wants to lose a bunch of money.”
Jones said he is unsure about his position with Beaver’s, where Deal is general managing partner.
“All I know is I’m out of work. I don’t have a position in the kitchen” at Beaver’s, Jones said. “I don’t know what’s going to happen, I honestly don’t.”
One thing he is sure of: his plans to team up with sommelier Jonathan Honefenger for a series of pop-up dinners, as reported by Houston Press's Katharine Shilcutt.
Jones said the pop-ups, called “crosscurrent,” will kick off with a brunch at El Gran Malo later this February.
MY wife and I always wanted to go to XX. But because of all the publicity, we felt it was always too crowded. So we never got to eat there.
Here is a care where the publicist did the restaurant a real disservice.
What was it Yogi Berra said? Oh yea - Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded.
"Xuco Xicana – an ambitious Tejano-style Mexican menu which Jones called “comida Texano” – simply didn’t catch on with the dining public and was losing money, co-owner and managing partner Deal said Monday. Jones’ menu, popular with foodies, never found a wide following, Deal said, adding that he’s as disappointed as anyone that the concept failed."
Well, guys, there's your problem. You catered to a niche that was way too small for you to profit from in the first place.
Look at some of the busier and more profitable restaurants out there. Guess what they all have in common? That's right - THEY PAY ATTENTION TO THEIR CUSTOMERS' TASTES.
When you cater to snotty, trendy "foodies" who want to stand & model, see-and-be-seen, then you are not getting the right customers.
Just as in Stanley Tucci's movie "Big Night," the cuisine was fabulous but nobody went because it was not mainstream enough.
As one prominent writer stated: "You write for the masses, you eat with the classes. You write for the classes, you eat with the masses." Same could be said for cooking pretentiously overrated "comida" when all we want is good flavorful Tex-Mex.
Live and learn, fellas.
I don't know why white restaurant owners keep trying to do upscale Tex-Mex in Houston. Remember Tonyo's and Grateful Taco on Shepherd? They weren't even open six months. I also wonder how long El Real will last. There are just too many good, authentic Tex-Mex places to choose from, with better prices. Viva Otilia's!
I am going to miss the food at XX. Thought it was really special, especially the guacamole. One suggestion: Rename it something that people can pronounce.
I went a couple of times and the food didn't wow me. Cuban/Caribbean/South American fusion seems to be where it's at right now (exhibit A: Julia's).
@Tequila Mockingbird - The fish taco at XX is an incredible dish to behold. I'm no hipster or scenester. I'd be thrown out of someplace if I tried to "stand & model."
Your observation about cooking for the classes is a good one. And, I'll take Jonathan Joseph anytime before Norm Brinker or Ray Kroc.
WEnt 3 times. 1 good, 1 medocre and 1 awful. The service was terrible all three times and the maragritas just weren't good. To compete for my dining out business you need to be consistent and serve good drinks. Beavers does both of these things well not sure why XX fell short.
@Tequilamockingbird- care to expand on how interior Mexican food is a "niche" category of food? Since when has tacos w/ cilantro and onion become a foreign concept in Houston? Sounds like someone NEVER ate there. Fortunately, I got in one last lunch before the dookie hit the fan.
@Roadchick- This wasn't Tex Mex. Not anything remotely comparable between Grateful Taco and El XX.
Midtown lost its best restuarant and the haters who never ate there are out atrollin'.
I hope JJ lands on his feet very soon. His food isn't avant garde "foodie" anything. It's as good of a representation of our city and its regular folk as anyone. MAJOR loss for the area, but I am really looking forward to seeing what he does next. Unbelievable talent.
Loved this place - I never saw it empty....weird it was loosing money . Jones is better off outside of midtown =). Hopefully Jones will take his talent to the Heights!
Jonathan Jones' menu at Xuco was creative and delicious! My friends and I made periodic trips from the Clear Lake area to enjoy his creations. It's a shame more people didn't discover them. I'll be watching to see where Mr Jones lands next!
Oh, no! Xuco Xicana has been my favorite since Jonathan Jones has been in charge. Absolutely delicious nachos, fish tacos and to-die-for Wangs. Please don't do away with those. My only complaint about the place is the parking, and his departure won't help that.
The hipster chachbag Washington crowd is the kiss of death for any restaurant in this city, turn it back into El Patio and enjoy your profits.....
I'm not youg, hip or a resident of midtown. I work downtown and spend frequently for business lunches. This WAS a "go to place" prior to the change. Loved their pre menu change fish tacos. Went once post change, did not like it, although the jet fuel house ritas remained.
@Tequila Mockingbird
"Look at some of the busier and more profitable restaurants out there. Guess what they all have in common? That's right - THEY PAY ATTENTION TO THEIR CUSTOMERS' TASTES."
Sounds like Houston's reverse snobs are alive and well. This all so reminiscent of the demise of Ciudad in Dallas, another venture into authentic Mexican cuisine. Because Ciudad never served chips with bland, uninspired salsa and their menu was bereft of Pablum for the gooey-cheese-enchilada loving masses,they fell off the mass appeal radar much like Xuco Xicana. This is just another black-eye for Houston's great food scene and all the more reason for national critics, like Tony Bourdain, to shun our city.
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