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Photo by J.C. Reid
The headline on the KHOU website was alarming: "Health department says filthy taco truck vendors found during surprise visits." It was also surprising, at least to me. I'm a taco truck connoisseur. The food can be phenomenal — some of the best in the city — and the price is right. But I'm also a stickler for hygiene and cleanliness. Lord knows the sickest I've ever been is from food poisoning.
So it's ironic that I've never gotten sick from eating at a taco truck. In fact, I've made it a habit to keep a close eye on the conditions of the taco trucks I patronize, and the vast majority are clean and well-run. In my experience the workers are hygienic and well-groomed (not to mention hardworking). I can assure you, if I come across a food establishment that is obviously unsanitary, I'll stop going there and report it to anyone who will listen. Hundreds of people die each year from food poisoning.
So how could I explain the discrepancy between the apparently dire conditions found by the KHOU reporter and my own benign and even enjoyable experiences eating at taco trucks? Local television news organizations are, after all, one of the most reliable and trustworthy sources of news in any community.
Of course, I'm being facetious.
In my opinion, local TV news organizations are rapidly becoming the bottom feeders of the increasingly murky swamp that is "gotcha" journalism. It pains me to say this because I have a lot of friends in Houston who are professional, ethical and hardworking journalists. But the reality is that we as consumers of media have come to expect sensational stories about deadly flesh-eating bacteria on supermarket shopping carts, and the obligatory sweeps week report (with hidden video) of strippers ignoring the three foot rule as they grind up against sweaty, fat, middle-aged guys. If it bleeds, or gyrates, it leads.
I have no idea if the reporter, Jeff McShan, knew of the hornet's nest he was getting into when it comes to taco truck politics with its undercurrents of racism, xenophobia, and anti-competitiveness. But based on my own research and experience, I believe that KHOU's taco truck piece is just another example of the disingenuous, alarmist, and fearmongering "journalism" that is the hallmark of local TV news. Let's go to the video, shall we?
After the anchors set up the spot, the video begins with a fly — one single fly — buzzing around the interior of a taco truck. We see a clean and well-kempt young Hispanic man with hair cut so short he is basically bald, as an ominous voice-over bemoans the lack of hairnets. Yes, I know even short-haired workers must wear hairnets, but couldn't they find a better example?
Next we see a city health inspector who talks like Flo the Waitress addressing confused workers as "Precious" and berating them about "bad hand contact!" She also lectures them on storing what appears to be a bottle of cleaning liquid too close to a food preparation area. No, I don't want hazardous chemicals next to my food, but again, couldn't they find something more incriminating than improperly stored cleaning materials in a supposedly filthy food establishment?
So what happened? Where's the (rancid) beef? I'm quite sure if they had found a dog carcass or some gopher meat or something, the images would have been played on an endless teaser loop in the hours leading up to the late local news. What accounts for the seeming lack of any "smoking gun?" Because I doubt there was one. Here's why.
One of the great resources provided by the City of Houston is the Health Department's Food Inspection website. Here you can look up the records for every restaurant inspection. I wanted to determine if the inspections of the taco trucks reported by KHOU were truly representative of "filthy" or unhealthful conditions as they relate to other routine health inspections. To do this, I compared the historical inspections between one of the taco trucks in the report, "Taqueria Veracruz," with one of Houston's most professionally-run and well-respected restaurants — Tony's. The results are interesting.
From May 2007 to May 2010, "Tony's Restaurant" kitchen was inspected five times and the "Taqueria Veracruz - Mi Jalisco" truck 10 times. All inspections for both were listed as "Routine Inspections," none were listed as due to a "Complaint." Over the course of these inspections, Tony's averaged 4.4 violations per inspection, while Veracruz averaged 2.5 violations per inspection. Sure, they are different-sized operations, but you would still expect these "filthy" taco trucks to rack up more violations than the fanciest restaurant in Houston.
Furthermore, health violations are categorized into three grades from most-to-least impactful on public health: substantial (most impactful), serious, and general (least impactful). Neither establishment had any substantial violations. Both establishments had about an equal number of serious and general violations in their respective number of total violations.
Looking at specific violations between the two establishments, many are similar and some are exactly the same: employees not using gloves, openings to the outside not protected from insects, floors not kept clean. For example, both establishments have been cited for Violation 20-021.22(a): "Floors / floor covering not kept clean in: food preparation area / walk-in refrigeration unit / food storage area / dressing room / locker room / utensil-washing area / toilet room / vestibule."
Also, one of the violations prominently featured in the KHOU video, broken or open screens that are supposed to keep out insects, did in fact result in Violation 20-021.21(b) for Taqueria Veracruz: "Screens for windows / doors opening to the outside not tight fitting / free of breaks." But in 2007, Tony's was cited for the exact same violation, described as "Openings to the outside not protected against the entrance of insects by tight fitting / self-closing doors."
What can we conclude from a review of these records? Most health inspection reports are reflections of exactly what they are: routine inspections where otherwise sanitary kitchens are reminded about actions they need to take to stay clean and compliant with legitimate health codes. Just because violations are found at Tony's during a routine inspection does not mean it is a "filthy" or unsanitary restaurant. It's not. But neither is the Taqueria Veracruz taco truck.
So why did KHOU do a report that gives the impression that taco trucks in general are "filthy" and by extension dangerous? I think we all know the answer to that. A lot of local TV news deals in the currency of fear, alarmism, and, in this case, xenophobia. Viewers like to feel that they are being protected from bad people and bad things. Stories like filthy taco trucks and flesh-eating bacteria on shopping carts play perfectly into the mindset and beliefs of at least some of the local TV news audience. It's also important to note that using words like "filthy" in the headline is an unfortunate reminder of xenophobic buzzwords like "filthy Mexicans."
Not convinced? Just have a look at the comments associated with this piece on the KHOU website. I'll excerpt a few that are representative:
"Who in their right mind would eat from a taco truck? Some nasty illegal who does not was his/her hands after taking a dump, then right back to making the tacos... NASTY!"
"Leave them alone. Most of their customers are illegals. Let them eat, get sick and die. Immigration problem solved."
"I'm sorry but they need to completely shut ALL of them down. They are just so nasty and dirty. They did an ordinance but none have been followed. Did they think they would?? This report sure didn't surprise me, but it needed to be done, to bring awareness to all."
I can only imagine that for every wacko that actually took the time to comment on the website, there must be hundreds if not thousands sitting at home watching this report, thinking the same thing.
I want to make a few things clear. I am not advocating that the Health Department use kid gloves when inspecting taco trucks. On the contrary, I expect the Health Department to aggressively inspect taco trucks, and all food establishments, to ensure public safety. But I do object to any sensational or alarmist characterizations, either by the Health Department or a local TV crew riding along, that misrepresent the results of those inspections.
Based on my own experiences with taco trucks, as well as on the knowledge gained from researching this blog post, I'll continue patronizing establishments like Taqueria Veracruz (and Tony's). What I can do, and will do, is choose not to watch local TV news.
I've never tried the taco trucks, but after reading this, I will. Between you and GunsAndTacos, I should have a pretty good resource for where to go.
Dear JC Reid,
I want to personally thank you for doing your due diligence and providing an informed counter argument to the sensationalism provided by KHOU news. Reading this article renewed my dwindling enthusiasm for the Houston "foodie" scene and gave me a small sense of pride in knowing that when dealt a hand of utter bullshit, someone representing the real face of Houston will step up to the plate and bat it right back at 'em.
There are a lot of ways this rebuttal could have gone, and you chose to state your mind and present valid evidence backed up by factual data. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Thank you for not resorting to simple name calling and whining, as justified as that would have been.
Keep up the great work, JC Reid. Continue to dwarf the journalistic approach taken by the fear-monging, buzz-brained team at KHOU. It may sound a bit much, but in my opinion this is what real journalism is all about.
Once again, thanks.
Sincerely,
japandemic
Nice job.
If you're ever on Bolivar Peninsula there is an awesome Taco Truck in the parking lot of The Big Store. Delicious!
Thank you, thank you for this report! I tried to alert Jay (GunsAndTacos) when this story appeared on TV. It was short, but brutal. I patronize various trucks in the area and I have never gotten sick at all from any of them.
I have, however, gotten mild food poisoning (only 2 days in bed/bathroom) from a well-established latino food restaurant here in town.
The taco truck vendors know they have a target on their back, so my guess is that they are MORE diligent in keeping things on the up & up. As they are typically family businesses, it makes little sense to risk the income for the whole family.
I am so glad someone spent the time to research the alarmist report from KHOU and has shone the light of truth on the situation.
Tacos for lunch today, anyone? I say YES.
One: I expect that someone at city hall doesn't like taco trucks.
Two: Taco trucks don't advertise, at least not in the "official" mainstream media.
'nuf said.
P.S. I'd like to see a Top Ten list of taco trucks ;)
Seconded!
i give you the facts on smashburger, the mighty chain. i ask why all of the locations are inspected by the same inspector, with passing scores? i wonder why their open self service drink stations need NOT be covered with a wipeable surface, a the city requirement? this city/ country still runs on 'it's who you know and how much you are willing to pay'. immigrants such as myself (and millions of others) have worked hard and created a need...then along comes a story of "let's find any story to make the immigrants look bad" in a time where immigrants are forced to the front line to defend others.
McShan reported that these inspections (conducted on 5/1) were the result of customer complaints, but in fact they are all listed on the Health Department's website as routine inspections. Complaint-generated inspections are cited as such. McShan reported that multiple taco trucks were temporarily closed, but in fact only 1 of the several visited on 5/1 was closed. McShan reported that none of the trucks "passed inspection" which he is apparently defining as no violations, but perusing inspections of other restaurants, you will find that it is nearly impossible for a restaurant to escape with no violations.
Worst of all, McShan didn't even list the trucks inspected and their violations, so that we could know which to avoid. I was able to glimpse the name of 2, but the message seems to be that you shouldn't go to taco trucks. It was a hit job on taco trucks as a whole rather than a cautionary message about particular taco trucks.
As a relatively new Houstonian, I've been unclear about the role of taco trucks in the city. Nevertheless, I found myself succumbing to the same baseless prejudices that the KHOU report replays for us. I suspect that many American cities have street vendors and the local culture determines what is said about them. Growing up in New Orleans, for example, it was a "given" that the Lucky Dogs vendors in the French Quarter served an inferior product. (We used more colorful language.) So, I brought that prejudice against street vendors here to Houston. I suspect that in places like NYC where there is a well-established acceptance to street vendors, the Word on The Street is quite different.
After reading this piece, I realize that it is to my distinct disadvantage that I hold this prejudice. Thank you for shedding honest light on it.
Indeed, it's probably a bad idea for a food establishment to kill it's customers. I will find and patronize my first taco truck this week.
I maintain that the best taco truck taco in town is the mollejas taco at the Tacambaro truck behind Canino's Produce, but I defer to Guns And Tacos, who has a lot more experience.
The video is the very reason I NEVER watch local news, especially Channel 11. I found the comparison between Tony's and T. Veracruz most interesting.
The racist comments are very unfortunate. Let's face it - hard-working members of the Hispanic sector of our community are here to stay...man up and try one of the taco trucks. I guarantee you'll be surprised - start here: http://www.gunsandtacos.com/houston_tacos/taqueria-taconmadre
Regards,
Dragana
www.draganabakes.blogspot.com/
i like you.
Kyle,
Tacambaro is certainly excellent. I like Tierra Caliente, back in service at the West Alabama Ice House after being closed for awhile. Also, El Ultimo on Long Point & Antoine is delicious.
These establishments are a credit to Houston. They deserve to be celebrated not condemned.
Nice Job! Well written. Keep up the great work
I do agree with the main point of your piece, JC, and I applaud you for it. However, the statement about having never gotten sick from eating at a taco truck as a metric for the cleanliness of an establishment is flawed logic. Being a sampling test of one, and serially applying that, would be inconclusive at best had you gotten sick. It's anecdotal, and cannot support or refute the allegation.
Playing devil's advocate, I can understand the idea that while registered trucks will merit equal inspection scores to a standard brick and mortar restaurant, creating an unregistered operation is easier than an unregistered storefront, and thus, can fly under the radar. Which could very well have been the focus of the original story, instead of sensationalist mongering that only fans the unvoiced tribalist frustrations amongs the city's media consumers.
Thanks for playing devil's advocate. :)
I don't think I presented my own personal experiences as a "metric" or "fact." Rather, in the spirit of never taking data at face value, I noted that on a very basic level my own personal experience--I've never gotten sick from a taco truck--mirrors my argument that taco trucks are highly regulated and generally clean food establishments on par with storefront restaurants.
With regard to your second paragraph, I did not get the impression, through the content or the title of the segment, that the focus of the piece was about "registered" or "unregistered" establishments. Additionally, I provided context, in the form of other sensationalist reporting that local TV news is know for, that supported my argument about the nature of the piece.
McShan also claimed that some of the trucks were operating without a license, but I seriously doubt that. None of them were cited for that violation, and I have seen a taco truck cited for it before. Perhaps he was talking about having a certified food manager on premise, which several were cited for.
'If it bleeds it leads' has long been a hallmark of local television reporting & KHOU is certainly not alone in alarmist & reactionary pieces being aired or written before fact checking can be properly done. I don't condemn the station as a whole, they have several reporters who are thorough and have ethical boundaries well established. This piece was not one of them. Great job utilizing the same resources KHOU did and revealing the hyperbole and inequities of their report.
Jeff McShan should've stuck to sports. He seems to be HPD's pet reporter. I think he's trying to become the next PIO for the police department or the police union. Has anyone ever seen a report he has done that is critical of anything HPD does? Does HPD accompany all City of Houston health inspectors on their rounds? Or was this done because of the ethnicity of the truck owners and operators? If HPD presence at food establishment inspections is routine, then that is a huge waste of money, if it isn't then why were they there?
Well done. I love taco trucks and hate KHOU. While I don't know Jeff McShann, I do know a number of people who work there. I suspect that this story was an effort to boost advertising relationships with area restaraunts. If only they allowed some real journalism...
Good piece. Some of the best tacos I have ever had were from these trucks. Like the Tony's comparisons you looked up!
Nice work, Mr. Reid.
Another "Well said, sir!!" supporter of taco trucks and fairness in reporting. It seems to me that as small family businesses charging comparatively little for their products, they MUST maintain their customer bases. KHOU needs to clean up *their* act in regards to accurate reporting and return to News, not inaccurate sensationalism. As for the inspector, she did herself and the department no representational favors. I'd suggest they focus on items truly health-hazardous; telling the virtually hairless man to wear a net was truly laughable. I hope you've sent a link to this article to the health department.
Those tortillas looked undercooked.
..."are rapidly becoming the bottom feeders of the increasingly murky swamp that is "gotcha" journalism" . . .
Who's lower? The Enquirer? Maybe not. FUCK local "news".
Loved it.
JT
Thanks for bringing this "journalism" up.
Please listen to these quotes from the piece, "...their target? Taco trucks. ". "On Houston's North side, (inspector)Yvonne Walker was on a mission." and "City records show 600 mobile food vendors are in Houston, and last year the city issued more than 400 citations."
Very interesting...kind of seems like a bit of bias/sensational journalism to me.
WorldFoodie
I could not watch it all. The inspector was showboating. I have never had such an aggressive, disrespectful inspector from the Houston City Health Dept. Policemen or not, I would have politely asked her to tone it down or leave.
The Political side of this piece is that Taco trucks are the low-hanging fruit, publicity-wise. The facts are that the inspectors are so busy with opening permits they only have time for one establishment inspection every 18 months. If all special permit fees were allowed to go into the department, rather than the General Fund, we would have a better-funded, more useful Health Department.
It's a mess.
Gary Wise
Banquet Depot
Excellent article Chris. I also abhor this type of journalism that feeds on people's fears. My experiences with food trucks in Houston has ranged from satisfying to phenomenal. Let's not denigrate these hard working people who are trying to irk out an honest living and provide a service.
Apparently the people at channel 11 have NEVER followed the inspectors to a regular sit in restaurant, these people do not have a clue of how badly the inspections go at these yuppy restaurants in town, maybe just like the taco trucks
Apparently the people at channel 11 have NEVER followed the inspectors to a regular sit in restaurant, these people do not have a clue of how badly the inspections go at these yuppy restaurants in town, maybe just like the taco trucks
While this does not make a taco truck safer I almost always find that the taco's I get from a taco truck are so hot that I have to wait for them to cool.
Excellent article, as usual, Chris. Personally, I lurve me some taco trucks and I'm always sure to mock and shame those who insist on being a-skeered of 'em.
Having just taken the food managers certificate for the COH, a full 25% of the course is rules for mobile food establishments, in which I have no interest in learning, but had to. There are some surprising restrictions on the trucks and many of them are to try and make it difficult for them to stay in business.
Personally, I find the quality of the food often higher, and the cost always lower than some of the better known names in the business of tacos. I would like to see a comparison with the other Tony's on Ella, where the quality of cleanliness always leaves a lot to be desired in the public areas.
Thank you for actually fact checking and comparing to a standard, something that our recently departed Houston Press food writer seemed loathe to do.
I regularly eat at taco trucks. I've eaten at most of the ones in the back of Canino's. Best food in the city! and in Houston, that's saying a lot. I have yet to get sick from, or see anything going on that would make me think I might get sick from, a taco truck. I did get throwing-up-sick at Disneyworld once, though.
YOUR AWESOME
YOURE*
Very well written article. You presented the facts and your opinion, and most importantly, your true experience with Taco Trucks. It would have been more interesting if the reporter had gone to several Taco Trucks and tried out each one. Heck, even a story on how hard working these guys and gals are. I am white, but can appreciate the determination of Taco Truck workers, no matter what their race/color.
I started eating from Taco trucks a year ago, but my wife is petrified of them. I wasn't sure they were inspected or legal, but after reading this article, I can rest assured they are.
Saw this post through Guns and Tacos, and as someone very much removed from the Houston foodie scene (I'm from CT) I have to say the comments you quoted are disappointing, but certainly unsurprising. We get bombarded by racist and ignorant tripe via the comment section at my job's Web site (I'm a reporter for a daily paper up here) but such is the way of the Internet. This post provides plenty of context that KHOU's piece didn't, which completely changes the tone of things. Maybe this one post doesn't prove that journalism isn't dying, but it certainly gives people like me hope.
Also, I'm jealous you have such a vibrant food truck scene and we, well, don't. ;)
I love taco trucks and I am not afraid to eat from them. I am not an illegal alien and I wash my hands more than anyone I know.
I rarely watch TV news and if I do, I don't watch that station for this exact reason.
Now, what's the best taco truck in Sugar Land/ Richmond area? Anyone?
the taco truck at my job is nasty... the guy NEVER washes his hands and handles both money AND food.. plus they stuff burritos with rice and a small scoop of meat.. i go to the other truck that seems a bit more sanitary but they give me a USED fork with dried food particles on it.... ughhhh lol
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