Meet the jalapeño/cream cheese bolillo

    The jalapeño/cream cheese bolillo from El Bolillo's new S. Wayside panaderia. Photo by Alison CookThe jalapeño/cream cheese bolillo from El Bolillo's new S. Wayside panaderia. Photo by Alison Cook

    Why should kolaches have all the fun? The jalapeño/cream cheese mini-bolillos from El Bolillo panaderia are an instant Houston classic, drawing inspiration from the way Tex-Czech sweet rolls come filled with an array of multi-culti ingredients, from boudin to ranchero sauce.

    You can tell the savvy El Bolillo brain trust was thinking in kolache terms, because they also offer rectangular sausage-stuffed pastries that look mighty Tex-Czech. But really, it's those splendid baby bolillos you want, crackly of crust and slashed dramatically to allow the green jalapeño cartwheels and soft cheese to peek through.

    These fat, pointy little torpedoes are gorgeous. They're also great with coffee as a breakfast that will get your blood pumping (El Bolillo pours local Katz brews from big thermos jugs) as the capsaicin and caffeine enter your system. Grab your tongs and silver platter, pluck up a half dozen at 50 cents each, and freeze some individually in foil to heat up in the oven all week long.

    Can boudin bolillos be far behind? Personally, I'm hoping for a bit of bacon to go in with those green chiles and cheese. Just think of the possibilities.

    The palatial new El Bolillo store on Wayside near the Gulf Freeway, while under construction in March. Photo by Alison CookThe palatial new El Bolillo store on Wayside near the Gulf Freeway, while under construction in March. Photo by Alison Cook

    El Bolillo, 2517 Airline Drive, 713-861-8885; 2421 S. Wayside Drive @ Gulf Freeway, 713-921-3500; 7610-D Office City Drive, 713-643-2625)

    Comments

    Pistolpete Mon, 05/21/2012 - 1:28pm

    Looks great and so close, too. Thanks for the heads-up.

    KJ Mon, 05/21/2012 - 2:07pm

    I can't believe this place is one mile from my house and I hadn't heard about it - that is messed up! Will be by tomorrow, bright and early!

    pescador Mon, 05/21/2012 - 9:11pm

    The secret ingredient: You use candied jalapenos. Great on chips too!

    Rudyard Tue, 05/22/2012 - 5:44am

    Nice. I work about a mile from there. I'll have to check it out later this week.

    Alison Cook Tue, 05/22/2012 - 6:52am

    Take home a package of their flour tortillas, too. They are thin, layery and truly excellent.

    Sue3 Tue, 05/22/2012 - 9:13am

    Thanks for the 4-1-1, looks yummy. This area is just great with some real hidden gems from a food and neighborhood perspective. Keep up the able appraisals Alison.

    AnonymousGoogle Tue, 05/22/2012 - 11:20am

    I've had these before at the El Bolillo on Airline. Not much filling, but very tasty. I would definitely buy again.

    El Bolillo Wed, 05/23/2012 - 9:34pm

    Busted.....I use to own a kolache place before I opened El Bolillo 14 years ago. I guess I will have to have a little more fun with the bolillitos....Thanks Alison, and get ready for a new coffee, Cafe de Olla(coffee, cinnamon, anis, pilioncillo) coming soon.

    Alison Cook Wed, 05/23/2012 - 10:48pm

    aha! I thought I detected a kolache vibe. And I love just typing the word bolillitos.

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