Gulf Wild-tagged red snapper: Courtesy Gulf Wild
Can you taste the difference between red snapper and tilapia? For the average diner, probably not. And given the traditionally exotic preparations of some seafood dishes in Southeast Texas and Southwest Louisiana - snapper pontchartrain, blackened catfish opelousas, any fish drenched in butter and lump crab meat - the often subtle flavor of the actual fish can be lost.
Which brings up the question: how do I know that the red snapper I get at my local seafood joint is actually red snapper? Until recently, there was no way to be absolutely sure. Of course, you can choose to patronize only those restaurants you trust. If you are familiar with different types of fish, you can ask to see the fish before it is filleted/prepared. And in some cases, usually when prepared simply by grilling or in raw form as sushi, you can decisively taste and confirm.
Why does this matter? Do restaurants really have an incentive to swap different kinds of fish for what is listed on the menu, thus deceiving the customer? Unfortunately, the answer is yes. Recent studies by the organization Oceana, the Boston Globe newspaper and Consumer Reports magazine have confirmed a growing trend of mislabeling fish. The Globe investigation was particularly worrying - of 183 samples of fish taken from Massachusetts restaurants, grocery stores and fish markets, 87 samples (48 percent) were incorrectly labeled (identification was done through DNA testing). Stunningly, of the 26 samples labeled as red snapper, 24 were actually different species of fish.
The mislabeling of fish can occur for many reasons, some harmless and some nefarious. Sometimes it's an honest mistake - a distributor sends the wrong fish to a restaurant and the chef doesn't notice. But more and more, due to economic conditions, restaurants are actually serving less expensive fish in place of more expensive fish listed on the menu, and pocketing the difference. In the vast majority of cases, the consumer never knows the difference. This is harmful for several reasons.
First and foremost, it's a food safety and human health issue. For example, in the Globe report, a less expensive fish known as escolar was surreptitiously substituted for the more sought-after white tuna. Escolar, for some people and in large portions, is known to cause serious gastrointestinal problems. Similarly, for those people who eat fish as their main source of nutrition and protein, some less expensive fish species will not provide the nutrition needed to maintain optimal health.
Another problem with the mislabeling of fish is simple economics. Consider those fishermen who spend an immense amount of time and money to catch real, wild red snapper. To survive, they must sell the fish at a certain price. If less expensive, mislabeled fish is sold at a lower price, they are undercut and can't sell their catch. Obviously, this has a significant economic impact for the individual fisherman. And for those areas where fishing is big business (like the Gulf Coast), it can have a serious impact on a regional level too.
Finally, mislabeling of fish is an issue of reputation (known as the "brand" by advertising folks). The "brand" known as Gulf red snapper enjoys a reputation as one of the most sought-after fish in restaurants due to its delicious gastronomic properties. If a diner goes to a restaurant and orders Gulf red snapper, but unbeknownst to them gets a previously frozen, mushy, muddy fillet of farm-raised Chinese tilapia, the opinion of that diner toward Gulf red snapper will be diminished. The reputation - the brand - is damaged (not to mention the sense of pride that fishermen have in their catch as well as the pride chefs have in cooking it). Demand is lowered along with reputation, with all the associated (negative) economic consequences.
I'm not aware of any formal investigation into the mislabeling of fish on the Gulf Coast. But surely it must occur. Others along the Gulf Coast seafood supply chain, from fishermen to distributors to restaurants, have also recognized the potential for problems. In response, the Gulf Wild initiative was created. Gulf Wild is an organization (and a brand) that guarantees the identity, quality, sustainability and safety of the fish that it markets. It was created as an initiative of the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders' Alliance - an organization supporting Gulf Coast fishermen participating in the "catch share" program (a type of quota to prevent overfishing) that was implemented, in part, to ensure the sustainability of fisheries along the Gulf Coast.
The Gulf Wild system is "end-to-end." As soon as a fish is caught, a "gill tag" with a unique identification number is attached to the fish. Back in port, the numbers are entered into a database along with details of the catch like the name of the fisherman and where it was caught. When the fish reaches a market or restaurant, a consumer can review the tag, type the number into the Gulf Wild website, and get the details about the exact provenance of that fish. In addition to tracking functions, Gulf Wild will also audit participating fishermen to make sure they are following procedures and regularly spot-test fish for contaminants.
In Texas, fish guaranteed by the Gulf Wild brand will soon be available in all Central Market seafood departments. In collaboration with one of Texas' largest and most respected seafood distributors, Louisiana Foods, Central Market has made the commitment to offer Gulf Wild products to its customers. Undoubtedly, the price of Gulf Wild fish will carry a premium over non-guaranteed fish. Will customers buy into it? Considering the immense value that guaranteed seafood adds in terms of health, economics and the reputation of Gulf Coast products, it seems like this would be a small extra price to pay.
Follow J.C. Reid on Twitter @houston_foodie and his blog J.C. Reid, Texas.
this is a great article to help raise peoples awareness.
At Whole Foods Red Snapper will be 47.99 a pound.
well dont shop there then, get your farm raised talipa and be happy.
I cannot afford Kobe beef, do not whine about it.
LOL, keep overpaying at Whole Foods. Its like a hippie tax or something. They see it as a badge of honor that they paid $5 more a pound for something. Worse yet they can't even spell the fish they use as an insult.... "talipa"?
Identify the restaurants and stores that were mislabeling their fish. Call them out!
The underlying problem is that the state of Texas, unlike other states, has no "truth in menu law" that has a penalty on restaurants that serve anything but what is described on the menu.
Florida did the same kind of survey for grouper. Much of the so called grouper was actually swai a southeast Asian catfish at a third of the price wholesale. I have eaten both along with friends who have lived and fished here for over 50 years. We could not determine a taste difference either grilled or fried.
I've seen swai at the local grocery and I've never heard of this fish before. Is it a "trash fish?" How is it best prepared?
If anyone can enlighten me, I would be most grateful. 29-95 readers usually tend to know this stuff.
Nothing wrong with the fish itself, it has more to do with not wanting farm raised seafood imported from Asia. As a commenter below said about antibiotics in Asian shrimp, the conditions fish is raised there is less than ideal to put it nicely....downright disgusting to put it more accurately.
Farm raised American catfish is fully sustainable and clean.
excellent article. please do what henrygates suggested above - publicize the names of the restaurants & stores that mis-label their fish. You will NOT be surprised at how quickly this problem will go away.
if you can't tell the difference between a red snapper and a tilapia, just forget seafood and go back to eating your steak, then
"Oh, I love the '82 from the lower Napa Valley. I had the biggest laugh when my brother thought it was an '83. Everybody knows the '83 wasn't nearly as earthy as the '82 and had more of a blackberry to it. I told him to head down to the corner market, because maybe he should stick to beer. We all had quite the giggle."
HenryGates has anexcellent suggestion, but it will be hard to implement. Most of us only suspect the fish is being switched - we've not got the wherewithall to check each and every instance in which we suspect the fish we ordered is not the fish we received, and it's unfair to "call out" someone on a suspicion when you've not got proof.
I'm now afraid to ask you to do this story on whether we are actually served chicken at restuarants....
Ask Mama Lai at Kim Son
Now THAT is funny - I don't care who you are!
I once had a catfish restaurant try to pass cod as catfish. I complained to the owner who insisted it was catfish. I grew up on catfish, eating it before it became popular (and farm-raised). Others must've agreed with me because that place didn't last long.
I'm in wholesale food sales, and I have a few customers who buy black drum and list it on their menu as redfish. They save $5-6 per lb and don't pass those saving on to the customer, that's for sure.
As someone stated earlier..."it's unfair to "call out" someone on a suspicion when you've not got proof."
But Mr "Redsoxfan"...you've seen the evidence, maybe you can give us some names.
I've seen places that have a Ahi or Yellowfin tuna appetizer listed with a cool red center (rare/med rare) which is awesome but end up getting something similar to Albacore tuna which has a soft pink center when cooked rare/medium rare. I'd say something but the servers and managers act clueless as to how this happened.
If you are afraid of "unmarked" seafood, stay far away from anyplace that is associated in any way with T. Fertitta. These restaurants, and I use that term loosely, will call your plate whatever you want it to be. As of a couple of years ago they served NO, NONE, ZERO, NADA, Texas caught and harvested Gulf seafood. 100% of their menu was imported. Reports show that Shrimp imported from just about any country that has aquaculture, the Shrimp have up to 100 times more antibiotics in them than is considered safe. They literally use GALLONS a day of antibiotics to keep the ponds from turning lethal to the shrimp. They do this because they don't want to keep a clean flow of water into and out of the ponds, it saves money.
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Next time you dine at a seafood restaurant, ask to see their certificates for authentication for the food they serve.
Pappy