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Click on the photo above for a peek at the food inside Xuco Xicana
I felt a certain reverence come over me as I constructed my second fish taco at Xuco Xicana, the revised version of El Patio Midtown headed up by chef/partner Jonathan Jones.
Xuco Xican's fish Tikin Xic (here, black drum) daubed with achiote and orange and cooked in a banana leaf.
I nudged a length of black drum from a fillet glistening with deep-orange achiote and orange paste that jumped out against its banana-leaf wrapper. I tucked the fish into the softest, thinnest little corn tortilla peeled from a steamy pile. I already knew not to add any further embellishments: so fresh and dewy was the drum, so dusky and gripping the marinade, that the fish and tortilla stood proudly all by themselves.
This was simple perfection. So was my tablemate’s wild-caught Gulf shrimp sauteed in a resonant chipotle sauce that had a slight, sweet fruitiness under its insistent smoky heat. I swiped a pearly twist of shrimp and a slice of avocado to make another taco.
“You know,” I blurted out, “nobody’s eating better than this in any Mexican restaurant in America tonight.”
That’s how good Xuco Xicana can be in these heady months after Jones, who made his reputation at Max’s Wine Dive and more recently at Beaver’s, remade the menu and began leading the kitchen in a more chef- and ingredient-driven direction. As El Patio Midtown, the restaurant traded in the diesel-fuel margaritas and family Tex-Mex recipes that had limped along for decades, pleasing old regulars but failing to fulfill the promise of the Midtown location in back of Spec’s Warehouse.
There was some overlap between the El Patio and Beaver’s partnerships, and in some ways, Jones seemed a natural to revitalize the Mexican restaurant. The ferociously curious LaPorte native had shown himself adept at Mexican flavors and techniques at Beaver’s, where his chilaquiles and tortas ahogadas had won loyal fans. He had recently married a fellow chef, Maritza Sepulveda, who inspired him to delve even further into the cuisine.
So far, Jones’ remake of El Patio Midtown as Xuco Xicana (pronounced “Chuco Chicana” and rife with possibilities for “dos equis” wordplay) has played out as a textbook case of consultancy done right.
The food can be terrific, and it seems to be constantly improving, along with the enthusiasm and pride of the staff. The tabletops, once covered with old-fashion white linens that created a funeral feel, now snap with oversized aerosol roses created by Gonzo247, a local graffiti artist. Pierced-metal stars sparkled over enclosed patios, upstairs and down. Jones is a frequent, ebullient presence in the dining room and the kitchen, which is run by chef Kenny Pullin, another LaPorte native.
A ceviche del dia of amberjack with avocado, serrano, cilantro, radish and julienned beet, at Xuco Xicana.
All that’s missing are the crowds. Word hasn’t spread yet that Xuco Xicana is one of the best Mexican restaurants in Houston — or in Texas, for that matter. Despite Jones’ disavowals that Xuco Xicana is doing Tex-Mex fare, it still has plenty of familiar Tex-Mex staples, from an excellent chile con queso laced with serious hunks of green chile, to the obligatory fajitas and nachos.
Really, what Jones and company are cooking up here spans the whole wide and ever-evolving spectrum of what we think of as Mexican food in Texas — from Tex-Mex icons to interior Mexican dishes to contemporary inventions that point the way to the future.
Jones’ daily ceviches at Xuco seem like the best in town right now, shaped by his trip to Peru when he worked for the Cordua group, by his keen interest in Gulf of Mexico bycatch species and by his talent for building and layering flavors. Recently a ceviche of amberjack dazzled, from the meaty softness of its finely cut fish cubes to the surprisingly roundness of its lime marinade, which had been fleshed out with juices from a vegetable mirepoix. What I took at first to be skinny batons of unskinned radish turned out to be spindles of crisp beet: a brilliant addition that added sweetness against the pungent radish.
A half order of Nachos Borrachos at Xuco Xicana.
Even the nachos are done in Jones’ trademarked, swagger-y style. I prefer my nachos to be composed in careful layers, not piled up higgledy piggledy, but I make a huge exception for Xuco’s newfangled Nachos Borrachos. Even a half order comes in a frighteningly large heap.
But the flavors rivet: earthy, spiced chorizo bounces off gentle scrambled egg; bursts of pickled carrots and green chiles light up swags of refried beans; serious red salsa meets ribbons of cool Mexican crema cultured in-house. It’s nachos in near-chilaquiles form, the tortilla triangles a little softened, a little crisped, the textures and colors running riot. They’re like nothing else in town.
Jones, with his typical guy-guy humor, has labeled these nachos “borrachos” because he prescribes them as an antidote to a boozy night on the town. That’s marketing to the club-happy Midtown audience, all right. These days, there’s actually something good to drink at the restaurant for folks who want to party on-site. And the diesel-fuel margaritas of yore (including the unspeakable blue version), have not been banished, out of respect to El Patio regulars.
Xuco Xicana
★★
2416 Brazos
713-523-8181
www.elpatio.com/locations/
All that’s missing are the crowds. Word hasn’t spread yet that Xuco Xicana is one of the best Mexican restaurants in Houston — or in Texas, for that matter.
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I went a few weeks and service was terrible. Couldn't get a drink refill. Food was so mediocre. Taco meat was bland (no flavor) and shells were store bought, not even fried in house. Rice was just not edible. The queso which you raved about in a previous review was so flavorless. I think I saw 2 pieces of tomato.
Good Tex Mex will draw a crowd hence the lack of a crowd. Service alone is why I won't return.
Thanks for the heads-up. Alison's reviews are always way off the mark, but the comments they create are worth putting up with the bias rhetoric. I've relied on Alison's reviews to point me in the right direction....which is 180 degrees from what she writes.
I stopped here as(El Patio) last October. Had the Felix Restaurant Queso and bought a container to bring it back home. Was bothered about the news of this being transformed BUT - Will now try this new one out. (and vis the El Patio on Westheimer for the queso). Thanks Alison for staying out front on the latest foodie news!
I may be in the minority here, certainly not a fan of foo foo places, hot chefs etc..I liked the old fish tacos and jet fuel Margaritas..went there semi regularly for lunch..once since the change and not again...
Cue the my Mexican restaurant is better that your Mexican restaurant arguments....NOW!
What I think I hear you saying is that Mexican food is many things to many people. I agree wholeheartedly. Ceviche may not be on everyone's list of menu items, but to some, it's the epitome of Latin cuisine. I proudly say, when it comes to what makes our tummy's growl, to each his or her own.
well said, and Zeppelin is best
ALISON YOU JUST INSULTED SOME OF THE BEST MEX REST OWNERS IN HOUSTON CAUSE THERES ALOT OF BETTER MEXICAN REST THEN THE THE ONE WITH THAT STUPID NAME
You ought to try it before toy make that comment.
fertitta.....your ego is as big as your prices...and stay out of my tv screen at Astro games....you just have to position yourself to be in every pitch shot!
It looks and sounds really good. I will give it a try and tell my friends too. Also Gringos is very good so let's compare, lol.
this is a littler more upscale than gingos hunny
Gringos is bad....really bad
How much are they paying you?
Everyone knows the best mexican is at pappasitos and has been for 20-30 years.
El Patio? More like El Yawnio
Pappasitos? You are pulling our leg, methinks. And the best Cajun food? Let me guess ... Papadeaux. You might consider breaking free of the chains.
the chicken and beef fajitas at pappasitos along with the bacon wrapped shrimp are the bomb. I only go to little pappasitos on richmond and they have the best fajitas ever. You guys like to make yourselves feel better at places like el patio or this new joint here that chron is shilling. First of all tex mex is one thing and mexican is another. I lived in mexico... go to fogo de chao or go to brazil, go to el patio ,go to your grandmas taco stand on telephone road. Pappasitos fajitas blow it away.Im not talking about margaritas or something like that.. if you are looking for margaritas go so freaking cafe adobe.
Dont order a enchiladas or ceviche at pappasitos order the damn fajitas. Nothing like it and all you haters have fun eating this foo foo garbage from an authentic cook named jones. gotta love it!
Dude you mean "little papasito's" .. which IS NOT like the regular Papasitos .. that is why you are getting flamed for posting that .. papasito's is junk, but little papasito's is awesome
where does jethro eat? let me guess you are the same guy that eats at ragin cajun to feel more authentic?Drives to new orleans and pulls off the road to eat some coon and speak cajun?yawn
pappasitos is hands down proven as the best tex mex in houston and they continue to kill it in the fajitas dept. Dont go to pappasitos and order the ceviche thats like going to paris and ordering a hamburger. I am going to venture to guess that I have eaten at whatever foo foo or whatever garbage hole in the wall 100 times over that you have and will take the pepsi challenge any day of the week with the fajitas of pappasitos. You disappoint jethro and I cant wait to hear what mexican place you like. If its this swill that chron is advertising allow me a moment to contain myself with laughter at how sad and misguided you are.I have lived in Mexico for many years( where the real mexican is totally different btw) and have lived in Dallas , Houston and sampled all the tex mexican you can think of from ninfas navigation to los tios to el pueblito la mexicana jaliscience donerakis el patio el tiempo et al. Your place is nothing no matter what you name cannot even hold a candle to the del mar platter at pappasitos. this is fact.
Seriously? So I guess Joe's Crab Shack has the best seafood?
Papasitos? BLAND. Horrible Margaritas. Love the comment on Joe's Crabshack - that place is horrible, too. Yes, definitely stay away from the chains!
WRONG
No, farrrrrr from the best seafood. Your analogy fails
I agree! Pappasitos done right transcends the fact it is a chain. I'm done trying hole-in-the-wall places (for service, especially)... I'll keep my stomach.
Its not El Crapio anymore read the article stupid!
yeah Jones is a real authentic mexican name too
going to check it out.
Far from the best.....
Alison, there are no "best Mexican foods" because they are one of the unhealthiest foods around and is probably one of the main reasons why Houston is one of the fattest cities!
Real Mexican food is simple, healthy and delicious, lots of herbs, vegetables, spices and meat. Tex-Mex is where you get the fat, like burritos, queso, etc.
Healthy and Mexican food don't go together moron.
So because it's unhealthy means it can't be the best? So to you there's no best burger, or best steak? Go troll elsewhere you idiot.
My Favourite Mexican Restaurant Is Malina's Mexico City.
.
Me too! I LOVE Molinas. Sometimes I just get a craving for it. I am always disappointed in other restaurants.
I don't know what that stuff is, but, it isn't Mexican Food.
you wouldnt know mexican food if you were sitting a bowl of beans
It wouldn't take much to be rated top Mexican food in Houston. The stuff around here doesn't compare well with other parts of the state like San Antonio and the Valley.
I've been to S.A. and the Valley and neither of them have anything on Houston Mexican Food.
The best Mexican Restaurants in Houston are Los Cucos or Donerakis. Nuff said!!!! Affordable and delicious :)
Los Cucos is terrrrrrible compared to Pappasitos. I'd rather go to a hole in the wall place like the one in this article than Los Cucos... nuff said
This place really suck.
If you see a bunch of white people and a bunch of white employees it has been my experience that you will have a mediocre Mexican meal. I recently had the best carnitas ever at Frida's on Main just north of downtown, awesome! You gotta go where the Mexican people, go where the food is cooked by the abuelita type people if you really want the good stuff.
haha...that's so true and I'm white!! I've been married to 2 Hispanic women over the past 15 years so I've become accustomed to the mom and pop taquerias and tend to stay away from the foo foo places. Call me crazy but there's something about paying $20 for beans and rice that bothers me, not to mention stupid. Also, there's a difference between Tex Mex and authentic Mexican food. There's nothing wrong with Tex Mex at all as long as that's what you're after. I digress, though. Like you, I know if I walk into a so called Mexican restaurant and there are too many white people I will usually go somewhere else.
I went to this restaurant last week and I thought it was disgusting. The service was okay - I read someone said it was bad.. It wasn't great, but not as bad as described. But the food was terrible.
I am glad the writer enjoyed it. If my trip wasn't so recent and wasn't as bad - I might give it another try, but really doubt my opinion would change and it would be a waste of money.
Can't wait to try the place. I love habinaros on Milam! OUTSTANDING
I have traveled all over Mexico and Mexican food does not look like this. I think you mean you have found great Tex-Mex.
Oh and another thing about Frida's, they were kind enought to host a benefit for Barrio Dogs Rescue Group who is doing wonderful work, I got my third dog Holly from them.
All I can say is that after having eaten at Xuco Xicana, Alison Cook must be getting some sort of payola or kickbacks from the restaurant. Cook has lost a lot of credibility in my eyes with this review.
The problem with saying “Best Mexican food” is that Mexico is a large country with many different variations. On the coast, you get delicious seafood, go inland, like Mexico City, and they excel at beef, but the regional differences are as big as you get here in the states.
THANK YOU! the first person that realizes there isn't a singular item that makes mexican food. I think Cook even said it's a mix of tex-mex, mexican, and modern interpretations thereof. If it doesn't sound good, don't go.
I love how the disagreement of a commenter with opinions expressed in this article instantly indicates that Alison is on the payroll and THERE IS NO OTHER JUSTIFICATION. It's a difference of opinion. Specifically, it's a difference of opinion about food. Accept that your palate differs from hers, go grab a quesadilla explosion salad at Chili's, and get over yourself/selves. Jesus.
Anyway, the molletes are clutch here, and JJ makes a mean posole. That's really all I've got that is constructive in any sense of the word.
Funny thing. When you're a critic and you throw out the word "Best" in not only Houston but Texas then there better damn well be some people backing that opinion up. That has yet to be done, so why wouldn't the insintuation of being paid be accurate? Everyone has their own taste buds, but you'd assume a professional reviewer would be more in sync with the public and that doesn't seem to be the case now does it?
User Comments are the best thing about the internet.
King,i think I'm addicted to them.I don't comment much but I like reading people argue.Very sad I know.
Are you serious!?!?!?!?!?!
My favorite Mexican place in Houston is Teotihuacan on West Bellfort (they have a location of Airline too). Will have to try out this place to see if it compares!
No, all that's missing is doors! The photo makes the place look like a beer garden, not a restaraunt. Are there windows or is the entire place open air? Is there AC?
Ha. Yes, there's plenty of AC in the inside dining room, which looks great now with the new tabletops. The open-air enclosed patios are on the end of the building, which is quite striking with its clean lines of corrugated metal.
I've never had Mexican food cooked in a banana leaf
Then you've probably never been to Oaxaca.
Or Veracruz, Chiapas, Quintana Roo, Yucatan!
what a stupid comment!
You are obviously have never been to my ancestral Mexican state of Oaxaca. I grew up with tamales in banana leaves, and other foods using this as a natural casing (like steamed fish).
--
M
Good Job AC!!! I like El XX and I'm not even a fan of Tex-Mex or Mexican food....Chef Jones doing good things here...I'm not sure what it was like beforehand, but I kinda like it now!!!
Ate here last weekend....medocre at best. Service was slow and sloppy. They must have known you were a food critic!!
I had the tortillas enchiladas and there was something wrong with them. They were bitter. Margaritas sucked. Again, something truly wrong, not just not to my taste.
Service sucked at first -- they tried to put us at a dirty table by the bar. Then we got a waiter who was at least nice.
I will say this though. The nachos were amazing.
I think people are hearing Mexican food and expecting Tex-Mex. I haven't been to Xuco Xicana yet but I believe it is suppose to follow traditional Mexican cuisine mixing both the coastal seafood creations along with old country recipes. You also have to understand that there is many different styles of cuisine across Mexico. You will find bread and butter over chips and salsa usually and white rice with black beans more than the orange spanish rice and refried beans.
I've been to XX a few times yet - both with larger groups and just my wife and I. When the food is 'on', it's great - like a more reasonably priced and as-well-executed version of Hugo's just up Westheimer.
However, I've had a few visits where it just wasn't quite right - flavors of the stacked enchiladas were a little muddled, chicken wings were a little overcooked. I don't get the queso. It tastes like, well, plain old Velveeta and Ro-Tel queso to me. Then again I'm one of those rare fans of the old Felix queso, so perhaps my palate doesn't 'get' it.
The service has been pretty bad in all my visits. At first I chalked it up to the menu changeover and general upheaval, but it hasn't seemed to improve. However, when the food is 'right', it's some of my favorite in the city, and the location is ultra convenient being just up the road from my wife's office - so I'll be back.
The Xuco burger/torta/sausage awesomeness is one of the most memorable things I've had this year, and my first go-round with the stacked enchiladas and wings left me near speechless. They also make a hell of a mojito - or at least my unrefined cocktail palate thinks so :-)
Let's see. You raved about the salsa and chips at El Real because you couldn't bring yourself to give its sorry TexMex a bad review. Your review of Mexican breakfast included Goode Co. Taqueria, when there are a million great Mexican breakfast joints in town. Let's just say right now that you don't know the first thing about good Mexican or TexMex food. I saw you tweet that you were disheartened by the comments here. Do you ever consider that your cultured palate has no application to, let's say, 95% of the people looking for recommendations about good restaurants in Houston?
food is uneven, leaden tres leches, service is absolutely horrible, management doesn't bother to respond to customer comments, why bother going back
Spanish Village on Almeda has been in continuous operation under the same family since 1953. It is still the best Mexican restaurant in Houston. Their longevity is a pretty good indicator of that. No new foo-foo restaurant named Xuco Xicana can even come close. In five years, no one will remember it.
I love Spanish Village for its cheese enchiladas, unique frozen margaritas with fresh lime juice, Sunbelt Special and fried chicken. I've been going there for decades and have written about it often. It's my home away from home.
XX had some of the worst Mexican food I have had in a long time. Only Habaneros is worse. I miss El Patio.
El Crapio always sucked!
Wow, lots of closed minds commenting here. I think the comments speak more to the unfortunate lack of imagination that is too typical among Houston restaurant goers than it does to the pictures shown here or the food served. This is why truly innovative restaurants (not that this is necessarily one) have such a hard time making it in this town. You'd be surprised how much variety there is in "Mexican" food. Thanks for the review, Ms. Cook. I hope to try it out!
Irony: people bash El Real because it's not reinventing anything, and people bash XX because it's not old school Tex-Mex. Flip those two expectations and enjoy your meal already.
Panchos is the best
It was pretty decent as El Patio, and the blue margueritas rocked. I've been twice since the change (I live close by and wanted to give it a full vetting). Serice was barely passable the first time and lacking the second. Both times the food was not that inspiring. I get it that it is not Tex Mex (I prefer the Original Ninfa's and Cyclone Anaya's is not bad), but I would expect more taste than I found in my two trips. I'll give it one or two more trys since it is close, but barring a noticable increase in food quality (and better service), I won't be returning after that.
I'm sorry, I must've found the Casey Anthony trial. I was looking for a freaking food blog.
I'm sorry, this must be the Casey Anthony trial. I was looking for a freaking food blog.
I enjoy reading the comments from people that are too above going to a chain restaurant. These are the same people that don't like certain music because it's too popular. Pappasito's is delicious, the only reason I don't frequent it more often is the price.
Get out more often and get a life. It's too short to waste at Pappasitos!
Yeah, it's just like the comments from people who brag that they only eat at chains, instead of "foo foo" restaurants, call people who refuse to shop at WalMart snobs, and ridicule people who buy coffee from a coffee shop instead of McDonald's. Funny how stereotypes work. BTW, Little Pappasito's on Richmond is OK, not great. The service at all Pappa's restaurants sucks because you are constantly urged to "hurry up" so they can flip the table.
We were there a couple of nights ago, and while the food (posole, fajitas) was good/very good, the service was so dreadful that we could not wait to get out of the place!
It seemed highly likely that our waiter was stoned out of his mind. All of his interactions of us were incredibly awkward.
We were seated and got menus, and almost immediately, he asked for our order. We asked for more time, and boy, did we get it!
We finally had to resort to a sustained flagging, what some might even call obnoxious arm-waving, after attempts at eye contact and small gestures were futile. Normally, I'd cringe at having to do that, but there were only 4 tables seated and 3-4 servers standing in the corner with their backs turned to all of us.
At one point, the music went off, but then stayed off for 5-10 minutes. Had the restaurant been full, it might not have been as noticeable, but you could tell that people at the other tables felt, as we did, that we could either drop to whispers or become the entertainment for everyone else in the place. It was the most awkward silence I've ever experienced in a restaurant - I can't really explain that. There was just NO ambient noise whatsoever, which seems crazy for a concrete and metal building in midtown with open doors at one end, 10 diners, and at least as many staffers.
The ambiance made me feel uncomfortable. Not in a "I'm not hip enough" way, which is certainly a way I've felt in other places, but in a "a team of commandos is holding the kitchen staff hostage and if our server smiles at us, they'll start cutting off hands, starting with the dish-washer" way.
I would like to go back to try the food again, but if that zombie vibe + bad/stoner service is the norm, forget it. Maybe it is just bad feng shui and a new table layout would help? Maybe they need to do some kind of sage smudge cleanse?
Allison, if you want a real critic to taste the BEST Mexican food, find some Mexican/Spanish ladies in their 70's who've known nothing but made from scratch homemade recipes all their lives and ask them to taste the food; they will tell you in a heartbeat if it's the best or not. Now they know how to cook. My mother (rest in peace) was known in her neighborhood as a great cook and I can unbaisedly say made the best menudo (other peoples input) and she only knew of a couple of okay Tex-Mex, Mexican, Latin restaurants.
Your point is well taken. I understand perfectly that when it comes to "Mexican" food, for some, only what mom made (and made sensationally, I'm sure!) will do and is the standard. My question is, why limit what Mexican food can be to only include what mom perfected in her kitchen? When I think of French food, I think of techniques, flavors, etc. But I don't think French food absolutely must be this and this and cooked this way or it's not French. It seems very limiting to demand that anyone who cooks under the umbrella of Mexican food must cook what you describe or they fail. Can't you still use spices and certain techniques but maybe with different ingredients and call it "Mexican" food? That is a compliment to Mexican food. It speaks to how inclusive and versatile its flavors can be. I've been to Hugo's countless times, for example. I know there are dishes Hugo has dreamed up using Mexican spices and ingredients because he's a stellar chef. Just because moms didn't make the dish in their Mexican kitchens doesn't mean it's not Mexican.
I know what you're saying, and you're comment makes sense (and makes me hungry), but shouldn't a restaurant critic in the biggest newspaper in the 4th largest city in America know good food when she eats it? No one seems to agree with her.
"The ferociously curious LaPorte native had shown himself adept.."
I thought Mr. Jones was Oklahoma born?
hmm, he told me he was from La Porte, and something about his childhood there, so I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that he was born there. I'll check it out and report back.
Perhaps you're thinking of Chris Shepherd, who comes from North of the Red.
You are correct, as Jones himself notes in a comment (from "JJ") further down. Oklahoma-born, moved to Texas as a toddler and La Porte at age 7.
I'll give this a try this weekend.......Even though I prefer Tex-Mex over true Mexican food.....Tex-Mex is my comfort food:)
One of the points I was trying to make--perhaps unsuccessfully--is that the food at Xuco Xicana is a blend: a continuum of dishes that spans interior Mexican dishes and more familiar Tex-Mex staples like chile con queso, fajitas and nachos. It's not an either-or situation at the restaurant, which I think is very reflective of Mexican food in Houston as a whole. We've got it all; we eat it all; and it's constantly evolving.
This food is nothing like food from interior Mexico. It is shocking to see that statement. Serving dried out rice, packaged shells, flavorless tamales would be a slap in the face to the chefs of Puebla.
Allison, you should not have to defend your self in this instance, with your star rating or you thoughts as a food critic. Of course, everyone has their favorite Mex or Tex-Mex restaurant and wants to let everyone know.
Read the comments and you realize several of the comments come from ignorant folks. You beautifully describe the wonderful sounding dishes and the comments appear to come from uneducated people.
Mexico is a large country with different states. The food is as diverse as its people. They do not eat fajitas in Mexico. Stewed pork, fish/chicken in banana leaves, mole, etc.
People, wake up and try Mexican food.
Wonderfully sounding dishes and good tasting dishes are two different things. When I went the tortillas weren't even homemade. The pork I've eaten in Mexico was nicely seasoned. The one served in Xuco Xicana's tacos had no flavor whatsoever. Had to pour salsa on it to flavor it.
We all know Mexico is a large country with different states and that its food is diverse as its people. Attempting to compare this to real Mexican food is just wrong.
Agree with ME4TRISH. My mami makes out of this world menudo, pozole, albondigas, frijoles borrachos etc. She HATES anything with the words TEX and MEX together. haha. We seldomly find a real Mexican food place and it's certrainly NOT any chain. Not even Ninfa's who's kitchen staff are all Mexican but... I think since it's a chain, they already have the food pre-made. You have to actually go into "the hood" and walk into a small restaurant where the owner/host/cook/waiter is all the same person. One of the best breakfast spots with homemade flour tortillas and huevos rancheros with a killer salsa is El Mirasol on 6800 Avenue E corner with Wayside Dr. I know there was a fire a while back so i'm not sure if it's re-opened yet. Anywho... surprisingly, I went to a grocery store in Pasadena called Mi Tienda on the corner of Spencer @ Shaver and they have an area where they sell whole rotisery chickens and ceviche and they also serve plates. They have tables set up for if you want to eat before you shop. So, I tried it and it was super duper good. You know what they say.... Don't grocery shop on an empty stomach... cause you'll buy the whole store. hahaha
For what it's worth, Mi Tienda is owned by HEB. Not saying that's good or bad, just saying.
If you're in that area there's a Taqueria nearby called La Favorita that's the real deal. They make homemade corn and flour tortillas. Also, each table is equipped with squirt bottles of homemade red and green sauce--both are excellent. Try the machacado a la Mexicana, or the pork in red sauce.
Allison, best Tex Mex in the Houston metropolitan area is La Brisa in the Clear lake Area. The old bacliff location has more atmosphere but a smaller menu. The gulf freeway location is larger and louder and usually packed. La Brisa features not just standard Tex Mex but lot's of seafood dishes which are unique recipes. The Chili de Golfo is a shining example. The crusted tuna is yet another. The stuffed avocado on the ixtapa platter is the best avocado recipe that I have ever eaten. try it and I'm sure that you will agree.
really? you need to get out more
I've been to XX and it is legit. Food is far superior to the previous greasy Tex-Mex (which does have its own place in my Southeast Texan heart) served pre-JJ takeover. The new menu is inspired, fresh and interesting. The execution was just as perfect as Cook's experience and I for one, cannot wait to go back. As for those of you who haven't tried it, don't knock it until you do. You might be thrown a pleasant surprise.
How dare Alison not be an elderly Mexican great grandmother whose posole's been simmering on the stove since 1973. Why even try to review a "Mexican restaurant?" This comment section is only slightly less ridiculous than was the one for Alison's Whataburger review. People in this city are very beholden to their own Mexican food traditions. I even have them myself, and I consider Tex-Mex and Mexican flavors the taste of my home. Apologies for XX not being Los Tios. Apologies for some of you being intimidated by a banana leaf. Sorry folks, but Pappasito's ain't the height of any cuisine--even if drowning flank steak in butter is great fun.
the only time I would be intimidated by a Banana leaf is if my waiter were wearing it....
Messin' with Whataburger in Texas is like pissin on the Alamo!
Wow! Such passionate comments... unfortunately many of you are not pleased. We will work diligently to be better. We love what we do and hope to grow into a better family. It is difficult to make change, we are sorry for those failures we have had. We WANT to be better. Thanl you
Point: in a world of shifting paradigm it is hard to define what is, isn't or should be...This is a pursuit of passion and an ode to being raised Bi-Culturally in Texas. A "giving back" and sharing of what I hold dear from a place I call home.
Fact: I was born in Oklahoma, Raised in Texas (from age 3), moved to La Porte at age 7 and started learning to speak Spanish at 7 (best friends were from Monterrey), worked for 25 years (closely) with Hispanic people...My wife's a Guadalajara native...I am Tejano.
There are 31 states in the Federal Republic of Mexico...all have different foods and Ideas and Identities. I hope, over time, we can share this with you...
Yo, JJ. If you were born in Oklahoma, you are NOT Tejano. Honorary, maybe :)
Hugo's has what could be a three star restaurant in Mexico City, the food is not necessarily traditional, but is nevertheless very Mexican and excellent. I haven't tried the Xuco Xicana (what an stupid name, by the way) restaurant but I'm willing to give it a try. The argument about how good or bad it is will never be settled because those fans of Tex-Mex don't like real Mexican food and those who know Mexican food don't like Tex-Mex.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT, mess with Whataburger...
I went there with a friend on a random Thursday evening and experienced delicious food and great service at the bar. At the recommendation of the bartender, we ordered the hot wings, pozole, and seafood enchiladas. Chef JJ was in the house but not in the kitchen, and still, just one bite of the food and it felt like all was right in the world. My friend who is Peruvian, said it was some of the best pozole he'd had in a long time. The seafood enchiladas were just plain good. The hot wings were actually too spicy for me, but overall we had a great meal. I had the $5 mojito which was great as well. The food is not what you'll find at Hugo's, but its not what you'll find at a Pappasitos either. The prices are higher, when compared to other tex mex jointsj perhaps there's a built in expectation that the food should be different somehow. All I know is, when i went home, I couldn't stop thinking about how El XX exceeded my expectations, and I found the review well-deserved.
xx gag, las brisas in league city fixing to close,alison your dont know jack
So glad to see Chef Kenny Pullin mentioned in the review. Super-talented guy. Expect to see alot more of him in the future...
I have many favorite Mexican restaurants. Molina's, Cadillac Bar, El Patio, XX, Ninfa's, Los Cucos, Tony's, Cyclones, El Tiempo, etc. That is what is so great about Houston the choice's.
I don't see the point in attacking Alison. It's her opinion and everyone has one. She is just lucky enough to test them all and tell us about it. Nobody has to be mean.
I think many of you misunderstood my comments. Allison was stating in her review that this was THE BEST Mexican food. I haven't been to the X X yet and who knows, I might like some of their food; but THE best, I think that would be almost impossible to label any food as the best. Though it really is hard to beat a mother's or grandmother's cooking; but that's a personal opinion and because everyone has an opinion; I don't think we'll ever have a definitive criteria that will crown a dish with that distinction. I'm always up for trying new foods at new restaurants and if it's good and the service is too, I'll go back. I didn't mean to offend any chefs by the mother statement, but I'm sure many chefs were inspired by mothers who were.
I have to point out here that I didn't write "the best." I wrote "some of the best," which is altogether different. A headline writer for chron.com may have tossed "the best" out by mistake, or out of enthusiasm. I was careful not to say that. But I stand by my judgment that some dishes at Xuco Xicana are among the best Mexican food in Houston and Texas.
Went last night for dinner and wasn't impressed. Maybe we didn't order the right dishes? I dunno. Margaritas tasted salty, shredded beef enchiladas rojas were just ok, rice was bland and crunchy, service was SLOW. The refried black beans were really good though. After last night's meal I think I'd rather eat at El Real.
In n out burger
Why do people change something that has been working so well? El Patio (westheimer) has had wonderful food and service for many years. Now I understand the midtown location is under new management. This is HOUSTON, TX and we like Tex-Mex. This isn't LA or Sante Fe...
Food was awful, service was worse than that. Had to ask for refills, had to ask for my bill...I won't return here..unless they restore it back to the original menu.
Can we get a post counter on this review? This has to be a record. I've enjoyed my recent visits to XX, but am particularly excited by the enthusiam on these message boards. Regardless who is the "best" in town, mexican food is alive and well in Houston.
The "counter" on the main page shows 111 comments. Now 112. By far not a record, though. Houston foodies are angry people.
We don't officially share traffic information, but I can tell you that the page views on this post are into the 5 figures.
Can we get a post counter on this review? This has to be a record. I've enjoyed my recent visits to XX, but am particularly excited by the enthusiam on these message boards. Regardless who is the "best" in town, mexican food is alive and well in Houston.
Service is slooooow, but the food is bangin. A bit pricy for mexican food but imo, very much worth it, and i very much agree with the rating.
It's depressing, but not unexpected, to read just how many people have no clue about the differences between Tex-Mex and Mexican cuisines. The ignorance is nevertheless astonishing.
We visited XX recently, and I have to say the mushroom enchiladas were one of the beat things I've ever eaten. Freaking incredible. Overall, I like Ninfa's on Navigation a little better (and El Tiempo when someone else is paying), but we'll definitely be coming back to XX fairly often. Still need to try Hugo's....
This looks awesome. I'm excited to try out XX. Also grateful for the ambitious chef community we have growing here in Houston.
I've been twice, once for lunch, once for dinner. Lunch with co-worker, $22 for ceviche and an iced tea. Co-worker liked the tamale, but noted that was a pretty high price point for weekday lunch. I enjoyed the ceviche, but perhaps XX hasn't "caught on" for this reason.
Dinner visit with restaurant reviewer friend of mine from Portland. Told him nothing of the place (or the local media love/attention). I had a barbacoa taco ($5 for one, so I was thinking this had better be like the $5 milkshake of barbacoa). He had verdes enchiladas. Both were thoroughly "meh". He left wondering what all the fuss is about.
I respect Allison's opinion a lot, but on repeat visits I come back broke and underwhelmed. Why would I pay $5 for subpar barbacoa when I can get 4 excellent barbacoa tacos for the same price (referencing the taco truck parked by Alabama Ice House, for one)?
I'll try again and perhaps do the nachos and fish tacos, but at some point just phase out the old menu, because you can't keep going back to the "well, that's the old El Patio menu" crutch. Stop trying to sell ideas/controversy on Mex-Mex.
And dude, please stop trying to claim you're white Mexican, it's embarrassing to watch.
i live across the street from W alabama ice house and that taco truck ROCKS!!!
..then don't look! In his field, the man has talent, it's undeniable. Why be condescending towards someone who's doing what they love, and making many people happy in the process?
After a few bong hits just about any Mexican restaurant is the best in the world.
El Tiempo 1308 on Montrose. THOSE are the best fajitas I have ever had. Sure its pricier there, but it doesnt get any better than that (so far).
Houstonians seem to have a very narrow definition of Mexican food. That is why I rarely eat Mexican or TEXMEX in this town. Bland, covered with queso--it all tastes like Sysco reassembled crap to me. As a few have mentioned, Mexico has many regional cuisines, most of it fresh and healthy---not covered in Velveeta! Fish and shellfish creations are staples all over Baja and the West Coast (have not spent much time on the East Coast of Mexico so don't know)...and yes, Southern Mexico (Oaxaca) is unique for Mayan inspired flavors and preparations. Most of the comments here are too ignorant (and rude) to bother with, as usual.
Xuco Xicana is not fresh. Sysco is their vendor! Comparisons to fresh food from Mexico is not accurate. Definitely Americanized tastes are the norm at Xuco Xicana.
Warning! Logic error.
Geez try it, dont like it,then dont go back...
Lighten up
texas made mexican food better them mexico.in mexico the food is cook in old grease incorrect temp and has no flavor
that's a disgustingly ignorant comment.
But surprisingly fresh. And, in many cases very accurate.
I will eat where I want and dont care what anyones opinion of it is. Pretty simple.
Banana leaves and such were all the rage in California more than 20 years ago---not really that novel as far as far as Mexican food trends go....
who said it was novel? Not me. It's been around in Houston for decades, too, at Pico's Mex-Mex, for instance.
So "the best Mexican restaurant in Houston, or Texas for that matter" only receives 2 stars?
First of all, you have misquoted me. I wrote that Xuco Xicana was ONE of the best Mexican restaurantS in Houston, or Texas for that matter." That's very different from outright calling it "the best."
Secondly, as I explained above, the two stars ranking mean that XX is "one of the best restaurants of its kind in the city." That's in line with my evaluation. I think if the service rose to meet the exciting food and the execution smoothed out, Xuco Xicana could earn three stars, which would mean "one of the best restaurants in the city."
Its nice to go to a Mexican restaurant that taste fresh and not thaw and serve
as 90% of the ones throughout Houston now.
Everyone knows im the best mexican food cook...my wife agrees