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Heirloom tomato salad from the Brennan's summer menu. Photo by Alison Cook
Sometimes I forget how much I like Brennan's Houston, probably because the restaurant's super-opulent cuisine isn't really my style. I prefer my dishes more pared-down, and intelligent editing of ingredients is a value I hold dear. Then I go back to Brennan's after an absence and am beguiled anew not only by how exceptionally well run the restaurant is, but by the realization that in certain rare circumstances more really can be ... more.
More is certainly more in the case of the wild Anahuac catfish dish on Brennan's current menu. I ordered it during a long, highly civilized Friday lunch a couple of weeks ago, and I was floored by the lush, intricate effects achieved by chef Danny Trace and his crew.
Wild Anahuac catfish with goat-cheese grits and Louisiana bbq sauce at Brennan's Houston. Photo by Alison Cook
Pork chop with Texas peaches and corn risotto, Brennan's Houston. Photo by Alison Cook
The catfish really did taste wild with the mineral twang I prize in certain fish, and it was beautifully fried to a thin cornmeal crackle, not a jot overcooked. The fish sat on a bed of grits suffused with the salty tang of goat cheese, so rich and delicious they made my eyes widen. There was a lot more going on: blissful hush-puppy nuggets and spears of fried okra pods; dribs and drabs of a buttery goat-cheese emulsion; and a unifying bayou of Trace's "Louisiana barbecue sauce," deep and dark and hottish and tart, with what seems to be a current of Worcestershire running through it.
Lordy, that sauce is fine. When Trace passed through the dining room, making his rounds of the tables, I told him he ought to bottle it. He says he's thought of it.
There was plenty more to like that noon, all enhanced by discreet pacing from one of the old-hand, old-school waiters. ( I love it when I get seated at their stations in the main room, rather than in the outlying precincts where the young sprats earn their spurs.) He gauged immediately that my friend and I wanted to take our time, and there was not an instant when we felt either rushed or ignored.
Shrimp remoulade with pickled shrimp-boil vegetables at Brennan's Houston. Photo by Alison Cook
I loved the heirloom tomato salad that's part of the summer's crop of dishes, set off by peppery arugula, milky mozzarella and dabs of basil oil, with the cool, pale-green crunch of hearts of palm adding some low-key surprise.
I noted with pleasure the return of Texas peaches to the menu: Trace does a nifty peach salad with cane vinaigrette, but instead we sampled a mighty pork chop with peaches and a brisk, sweet-sour peach and pork reduction that worked unexpectedly well (given my aversion to sweet meat dishes). It was great stuff, particularly in concert with a sweet-corn risotto that had a regional maque-choux swagger.
Brennan's Gulf shrimp remoulade remains one of Houston's best dishes, in my estimation: the shellfish sweet and pearly, the remoulade jumpy with flecks of Tabasco mash, and the Trace touch — a bed of vegetables lightly pickled with shrimp boil — a stroke of genius.
Pecan pie sundae at Brennan's Houston. Photo by Alison Cook
We drank a luminous Soter pinot noir, with its characteristic notes of black fruit and white pepper, from the restaurant's always-interesting wine list. I tried my first Soter at Brennan's years ago, back when Underbelly chef Chris Shepherd was their wine guy, and sometimes I like to recapture how happy it made me. (Still does.)
The old-school desserts here make me happy, too. Peach season meant peach cobbler with a snowbank of whipped cream thrumming with tart Creole cream cheese, an inspired idea. Pecan-pie sundae layered into a highball glass and crowned with caramel corn would have been utterly swell had the narrow confines of the glass not caused the ice-cream to melt too quickly. (Given free range in a coupe-style dish, the wonderfully sticky satin of the hot pie filling might have let the ice cream survive better.)
Texas peach cobbler with Creole cream cheese whipped cream, at Brennan's Houston. Photo by Alison Cook
Through it all, the subdued babble and chink of the lunchtime crowd reminded me of what a happy restaurant used to sound like, before this era of calculated roar. If chef Trace and owner Alex Brennan-Martin could bottle that precise, joyful not-quite-noise, it might make them richer than Louisiana Barbecue Sauce could.
We were the next-to-last table to depart that serene and deeply Southern room. I grabbed a praline on my way out the beveled-glass door, already promising myself not to stay away so long next time.
Brennan's Houston, 3300 Smith St., 713-522-9711. Lunch Monday—Friday 11 a.m.—2 p.m.; dinner daily 5:45 p.m.—10 p.m.; brunch Saturday 11 a.m.—2 p.m, Sunday 10 a.m.—2 p.m.
For some reason I always think Brennan's is perfect for lunch on a rainy Monday. I don't really know why because it can brighten up any day.
It all looks delicious, especially the pork chop. Thanks for the update.
OMG....everyone of those pictures, coupled with your eloquent descriptions made my mouth water. I'm in Singapore right now, and can't wait to get back home to this kind of scrumptous dinner before a show in the theater district!!!
ah, but Singapore! How lucky you are to be there. That's high on my list of places where I'd love to eat myself silly.
Oh, how I love Brennan's.
Alison, did you not give a star rating or did it just not get any stars?
I didn't do stars since it was not a full review, but this is definitely a solid three-star restaurant, i.e. one of the city's best.
Brennan's is thoroughly good. Sunday brunch there is simpy sublime.
Um, err, "simply" even...
One of my favorite places in the whole world. Feel like I'm giving myself a present when I dine there. Try to eat there every couple of months.
that's a good way to put it. Me, too.
We went there for a family gathering for a dinner and my fondest memory (I am surprised to remember at all as I had three) was the Mint Julep served in the traditional style. It was amazing. The whole experience harkens back to a less rushed time period. That pork dish looks to die for and the peach cobbler is a must have. Thanks again for spotlighting one of Houston's better traditions. Look forward to restaurant month in August. Can't wait to try Feast. I am sure you will do a steller job of covering the event.
Great photos and descriptions. You'd have to hate food not to be enthralled. I'm planning my next Brennan's visit.
Other than the salad - the plating is mediocre at best. More here is just more - not better. Too many ingredients glopped everywhere. Creole cream cheese sounds disgusting on a dessert. The catfish looks more like something the cat threw up rather than an elegant dish you would want to enjoy. They should really focus on less is more and on quality ingredients that stand on their own instead of cheap catfish and tilipia.
you've got to be kidding. Anahuac catfish IS a luxury, the kind that makes me happy to live on the Gulf Coast. Yeah, it looks too-too busy, and it tastes fabulous. That's the bottom line for me.
You just have no idea what good food is!
....one of the true standout places in houston...just wish they would make it mandatory for men to wear coats at all times, nothing more than a turn off to look over and see some douche in jeans and a clubby t-shirt in a place that deserves much more respect......just wish some restuarants would stand up to guest and appreciate those who actually care what they wear when the dine out and a fine place like this......it sickens me they allow this type of dress....
and this has to do with the food how???
@wuwu Douche????? What is your problem? You paint with a very broad brush. Is it the lack of a jacket? Or is it the wearing of Blue Jeans and T Shirts? Draw a line and stick with it. I could wear a $1,000 cashmere sweater, dress slack and fine leather shoes. Yet somehow I don't, "actually care what they wear when the dine out and a fine place like this". Grow up.
me thinks you the douche, you just don't get it, good luck....it's called respect, how 'bout that line....
Respect for whom? If you do not like the attire worn by the paying customers, then frequent a different establishment.
You haven't answered what is a reasonable question. Is the lack of a jacket what offends you or is it the choice of alternate attire which may too casual in your eyes?
Simply put would in your opinion blue jeans, t-shirt and a sport coat be acceptable or not? It is a serious question and if the restaurant in question is worthy of a certain level of sartorial respect, so should the discourse in the discussion of said restaurant, so please refrain from the smarm.
Pat we realize your brilliant and angry and the defender of all, but do you really have argue everything to death?
Brennan's....my all time favorite. We recently went for a celebration and I was on medication that prevented me from having my favorite dishes. The waiter graciously, and without having to think about it, pointed out other options that I could have. The were not my favorites but were wonderful. He even brought me a non-alcoholic Cosmo just to make me feel better about the predicament! Can't wait to go again!
Five of us went for Father's Day dinner. Special days are always tough on a store, but Brennans shone brightly as always. Our server Alex, no not that one, was terrific as well. Definitely a Houston Top 10 in our book...
I like you, Alison, prefer the simpler foods. But Brennan's is so special, my blood pressure goes down as soon as I walk in the door. It is my number one choice for celebrations big and small.
Is the Anahuac catfish from Trinty/Galveston Bay? We live on the water south of Anahuac about 25 miles at the end of the world. So excited to see Wild Anahuac Catfish on the menu. Do I need to now save the wild Anahuac catfish that I catch to take to Brennans, or do you want to come to our house for dinner?
We had a guest chef from Brennan's in our dining facility this week....panko crumbed redfish, yukon mash, a tomato/cannelini/balsamic salad thingy and some microgreens with cane dressing. It was lovely. Feel very lucky to work in a company that provides this type of nicety for their employees.
Having recognized Ms. Cook leaving the dining room that day, mine happened to be the last table served for our lengthy lunch. I rarely stop to dine for lunch but needed to finalize some business and my customer chose Brennan's as the spot to discuss and dine. Both of us ordered the Anahuac Catfish because it is rare to find wild catfish on a menu. Even though Chef Trace creates dishes that typically can't be described as simple, the combination of ingredients, sauces and sides awaken the senses and liven up taste buds. Since my lunches aren't normally so large, I thought I'd be ready for a nap afterwards but instead I found I had energy to spare to finish up my day. Besides, ours was part of Brennan's 3-Course Business Lunch $20 menu! This was by far the most delightful, inexpensive lunch I've ever experienced. And even though we were relative cheapo diners the service level remained consistently high.