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Oysters with chimichirri as served at U.S. Smith's BBQ, Beer and Garden.: Brett Coomer : 29-95
Simply grilled oysters as served at Gilhooleys.: 29-95 file
This time of year, I’ll drive many miles — (I’m looking at you, Gilhooley’s) — for a good plate of oysters.
That’s one of the reasons I was disappointed to read of the overcooked oysters in my colleague Alison Cook’s review of LA Bar last week.
After reading that review, I spent some time thinking about my favorite spots for oysters, and here are my notes.
Oyster Manuel Style as served at Floyd's, where its taste over presentation.: Syd Kearney : 29-95
I’m a long-time fan of Gilhooley's, the San Leon dive where my favorite “last meal” is a fried balogna sandwich and a dozen perfectly charred grilled oysters. The negatives: the no-child policy (it’s a beer joint, folks), the pro-smoking policy and, yes, the distance. There’s no ducking out for lunch at Gilhooley’s. It’s a destination for most of us.
Luckily, there are some good versions a little closer to home.
I grew up eating pan-fried oysters, a style that’s not widespread in Houston. I’ve tracked a couple of versions that remind me — in a good way — of childhood. At Floyd’s Cajun Seafood and Texas Steakouse, the oysters are described as blackened and pan-fried. The official name is Mañuel Style Oysters. The presentation of this appetizer leaves a lot to be desired. The dark oysters “nuggets” come out on a small plate with a plastic tub of frothy lemon butter. Very homely but delicious, with a peppery afterburn.
Oysters Cajun Style as served at Benno's in Galveston.: Syd Kearney : 29-95
An even more satisfying version — because it’s a complete dinner and much more attractively plated — can be found at Benno's on the Beach in Galveston. They call their pan-fried version “Cajun style.” Fat, flour-dusted oysters are delicate, fleshy bites and served with roasted potatoes and cole slaw.
This week, I shared news about the opening of the new backyard restaurant U.S. Smith’s BBQ, Beer and Garden. The slow-smoked brisket and freshly grilled burgers are sure to be a hit, but I’m already a fan of the grilled oysters. Chef Christopher Williams’ version is topped with a super-garlicky chimichurri. Kick them up with some of the house-made pepper sauce and you’ve got a potent bite of the Gulf.
A mug of raw oysters as served at Sonny's Place in Galveston.: Alison Cook : 29-95
For purists, there’s nothing better than fresh-shucked raw oysters. A squeeze of lemon, a dash of Tabasco and a quick slurp: sensational. Among the best oyster bars: Tommy's, Danton's and Liberty Kitchen. Those are the nice spots where the oysters are shucked right in front of you and served on the half shell. Want to go old-school? Consider a stop at Sonny’s Place in Galveston.
In season, this greasy spoon, best known for its burgers, serves freshly shucked oysters by the half dozen in a beer mug, topped with cocktail sauce and a dollop of horseradish.
Baked oysters can be tricky. Too much topping can overwhelm the bivalve, and overcooked oysters are a crime. A good spot to try baked oysters is Goode Company Seafood, where a sample platter allows you to taste five versions. Among them: ribeye-wrapped and spinach-topped.
Oyster Copano as served at Goode Company Seafood.: Syd Kearney : 29-95
My favorite is Oyster Copano. Topped with Italian sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and Fontina cheese, the dish is just shy of too, too much. Instead, it’s a luxurious bite of surf and turf. (Enjoy three for $5.50 during happy hour at the I-10 location.)
Fried is arguably the most popular way to enjoy oysters. And I’d be hard-pressed to choose a local fave. Okay ... Branch, Floyd’s, Olympia Grill in Galveston, the family-run Schilleci’s New Orleans Kitchen in The Woodlands and the lively The Rouxpour in Sugar Land.
Seafood gumbo is topped with fried oysters at Liberty Kitchen.: Karen Warren : 29-95
Currently, my favorite fried oyster sits side by side with deep-fried okra atop the made-with-love gumbo at Liberty Kitchen in the Heights. The crisp little oysters are the perfect foil for the rich stew.
Details
Benno's on the Beach: 1200 Seawall, Galveston, 409-762-4621
Branch Water Tavern: 510 Shepherd
Houston, 713-863-7777
Danton's Gulf Coast Seafood: 4611 Montrose, 713-807-8883
Floyd’s Cajun Seafood and Texas Steakouse: Find the nearest location at floydsseafood.com.
Gilhooley's: 222 9th, San Leon, 281-339-3813
Goode Company Seafood: Find the nearest location at goodecompany.com.
Liberty Kitchen: 1050 Studewood, 713-802-0533
Rouxpour: 2298 Texas, Sugar Land, 281-240-7689
Olympia Grill at Pier 21: Pier 21 at Harborside Drive, Galveston, 409-765-0021
Schilleci’s New Orleans Kitchen: 9595 Six Pines Drive, The Woodlands, 281-419-4242
Sonny’s Place: 1206 19th, Galveston, 409-763-9602
Tommy's Restaurant & Oyster Bar: 2555 Bay Area Blvd., 281-480-2221
U.S. Smith’s BBQ, Beer and Garden: 5512 La Branch, 713-568-2505
Syd, I agree with all of the above except for one place that I will never again visit - Liberty Kitchen.
The food is okay there but not quite "all that." What irritated me most was the hostess and waitstaff - they all appeared as if they couldn't give a flying flip about providing top-notch service and a pleasant dining experience. Plus, they seemed to be under-trained and when you asked them a question about the menu, they looked as if you were speaking Russian.
When I alerted the manager of the whole situation, he had that "New York" attitude about my concerns and basically told me to take a hike. So I did - straight to Danton's, where they know how to treat customers well.
And needless to say - the food was 100 times better and served in a nicer atmosphere.
Houston is a buyer's market when it comes to restaurants. Out of 100 new places that open up every year, 99 will shutter within 12 months. I will quote my 29-95 friend Intrepid: I'm surprised Liberty Kitchen has lasted this long.
OK, trolls and foodies - tell me where I'm wrong without resorting to personal attacks. Thank you.
Your experience is interesting.
I've been dropping by and eating at the bar about once a month since it opened. I go for the food not the service, although I do understand how those things go hand in hand. Most of the time I'm craving a gumbo and there's is very good, second only to Danton's. (I go to Liberty because I'm normally dressed pretty scruffily and feel under-dressed at Danton's.)
Since I always eat at the bar, I pretty much ignore hostess. (Well, I say, 'Hi' and point at the bar. They seem pretty relieved not to have to mess with me.)
Service at the bar -- as is at many bars -- ranges from really good (and informed) to rushed (with no time for pleasantries). If I have a quibble with Liberty Kitchen, it is that too many times the staff gives off an in-the-weeds vibe, even when it's not busy.
That's how much I love oysters. I'll put up with a lot for some good ones.
+1, I'm with Tequila -- The food poisoning post below ties this little package up nice n tight.
Wow, I have to say how surprised that I am about the negative comments on Liberty Kitchen. My wife and I are regulars (about once a week on avg) and every meal we've had was great. My only real complaint is the sometimes over-whelmed waitstaff can be slow or forgetful when we're waiting on something from the bar. Or once in a while an onion ring still has the outside paper-layer on it, but I view that as proof that they're sliced fresh and cooked to order - not par-cooked and frozen.
FTR, their charcoaled oysters are perfect, IMO. We also find management very engaging.
My favorite place to enjoy a plate or two of oysters has always been Stingaree's in Crystal Beach.
You owe it to yourself to go try Dickinson Seafood's fried oysters. Zero atmosphere but the food more than makes up for it.
I had a dozen fried just recently at Shrimp N Stuff in Galveston that were fantastic. I still like the remoulade at Ragin Cajun the best with fried oysters. Both of these places have been around for a long time and know what they are doing.
It's hard to beat the oysters Baton Rouge at Pappadeaux, but I love baked and Goode Company is definitely up there
Andrew 1418 - try their Oysters Pappadeaux. It's a take-off on Oysters Rockefeller with spinach and hollandaise sauce.
Incidentally for you food historians - Oysters Rockefeller were invented at Antoine's of New Orleans around the 1930s or so. The name was inspired by the "richness" of the dish. The butter sauce was a big secret, and because nobody could get the exact ingredients, it was never successfully duplicated.
Travel tip - when in the Big Easy, try Drago's at the Hilton Riverside if you want great chargrilled oysters. The other good places in the Quarter for raw oysters are - in no particular order - Dickie Brennan's, Felix's, Acme and Deanie's.
Excellent recommendations for New Orleans. Drago's oysters set the standards. Dickie Brennan's raw bar is stunning. Love the Bucktown Blues Salad at Deanie's. If you ask nicely, they'll top it with a half dozen fried oysters. As Emeril would say, "Bam!"
Thanks, Syd. Anytime!
PS - Just between us, there's a nice little eatery on Decatur near the river that has the locals raving. It's called Daisy Duke's. Not only do they serve breakfast until 2 pm (definitely a plus for us night owls), but their Cajun/Creole dishes are great, plentiful and inexpensive. It's the first place I hit in town when I arrive (besides the Napoleon House, where I catch up on the local gossip).
You know I've seen that place and poo-poo'd it for the name. I'll definitely stop by next time I'm in town, says someone who truly knows what it means to miss New Orleans...
I would recommend Drago's in Metairie, not at the Hilton which gets really bad marks for their food. Felix's is in distress unfortunately and is now cash only and no beer, wine or liquor available. They will let you carry in your beer though. Acme is so over-rated. Half shells come on a tray with no ice and at room temperature. Not for me. In Houston, Danton's is my go to for plump, sweet, cold oysters.
Houstess - thanks for the info. I will take it into consideration when I head to NOLA later this month. Especially the info about Felix's. How did they lose their liquor license? They were really good back a year or so ago with their drinks - best whisky sours in the Quarter.
I agree 1,000-plus about Danton's. If you check the blackboard in the oyster bar, they'll specify where the catch was from that day.
PS - I avoid anything even remotely associated with Emeril. The guy's a con job if I ever saw one. YEECH!!!!
I don't know but it's too bad about Felix's. People standing in line across the street, and Felix's going under.
Liberty Kitchen - We have been going to Liberty Kitchen once or twice a month (at least) since they opened. My wife and I both got food poisoning at Liberty Kitchen. It was the sickest we have both been. I emailed the restaurant and gave the details (I had not eaten in 24 hours prior to my meal and my wife and I had not eaten at the same place in more than 2 days). I stated that I did not want anything and was just letting them know in case other patrons were also sick. I never received any sort of communication back from Liberty Kitchen. I will not be going back.
EWWW. I hate to say I told y'all so, but, well...
GF, I hope you and your wife are okay now.
Matagorda Bay, produces the best oysters in the world, bar none!
AS an oyster buff (if not a connoisseur), I have slurped and chomped many an oyster across the Gulf Coast. There's only one place I would go for my last meal, and that's Rainbow Lodge. Have no idea what the chef does to his fried oysters, but they are to die for. PLUS-- the 'home made' bread takes me back to the aroma and tastes of my childhood kitchen.
Scald - thanks for the tip. I've tried Rainbow Lodge's game and fish dishes, but never tried the fried oysters. I will now!
And not to hijack the thread, but to continue the discussion about poor/indifferent service, the people at RL definitely know and care about their dishes! Even the bartender is knowledgeable about how some of their fine cuisine is prepared. That's why the place is so successful. (Liberty Kitchen, take note.)
Try their happy hour sometime!
Where is Rainbow Lodge ?
It's at 2011 Ella Blvd. http://www.29-95.com/restaurants/rainbow-lodge
Can we please please eat oysters over the weekend....please
kl
list of oyster restuarants
Swamp Shack in Kemah also has a fantastic selection of oysters. The grilled with garlic butter is amazing.
I was at Sonny's in Galveston last week (Friday and Saturday) for their oysters. I spoke to Sonny and he told me he gets them from San Leon. I was always bothered they they came in a mug, instead of on the half-shell, but he said that they come shucked already, so that's how they serve them.
I had 12 Friday night, and 24 Saturday night. Do you think I liked 'em? Disappointed to be back in Houston.
I used to hear good things about Capt Benny's on South Main, but haven't been there in years. Does anyone have a review on that place's oysters? I do know that it's a dive, but I don't care if they have good oysters.
24! Dang, good for you.
I bet his wife didn't think so!! He probably wore her out. ;-p
Hahahaha.......:)
Thanks, Intrepid. I knew you'd get it.
I had Capt. Benny's on S. Main last oyster season they were medium to small good and around 7.00 for a doz.
How can you review oysters in Houston and not include Captain Tom's? The 1960 store has been there since the 80's. It was once named after a Marine base and once a Captain Benny's.
Ditto on the bad service at Liberty Kitchen. Heard they were opening another one and I have to wonder why. Food is okay, but have never had spectacular anything there over 3 - 4 visits, trying to figure out what the raves are about. Sorry to say, we won't be going back, even with the promise of Heavenly Oysters. Too many great choices vying for my restaurant money to re-visit okay food and lukewarm-to-bad service.
Not one mention of Brasserie 19? They have 4-6 types of fresh oysters daily from around the world, including some of the best Gulf Oysters I have ever had.
Syd, I have to disagree with your reference to Sonny's being a greasy spoon.
Yes, they do sell burgers and to be honest I've never ordered their burgers. I believe they are also known for "Grandma Teresa's Spaghetti", shrimp bun, Friday's gumbo in addition to there burgers.
Burger joint maybe oldest restaurant and bar in Galverston but defiantly not a greasy spoon IMHO
I enjoy the food, the ambiance (throw back to the mid 1900's), prices vs quality
And course my mugs of oysters, sauce, extra horseradish and lemon
The owner/manager at Sonny's is a card. He's funnier than a barrel of monkeys and even has been known to trick customers with a fake mustard jar. (You have to see it to believe it.) He's one of the reasons that Sonny's is my go-to place on the island. Oh, and the food is divine! He pulls the trifecta: food, ambiance and prices.
I am not an oyster fan, but my husband is and he REALLY enjoyed the ones at Prime Time Steakhouse on 1960 near Perry. They had several different kinds to choose from. He tried 3 different styles and said they were all great. Service was wonderful too.