Whine & Dine: Expecting upscale, reader disappointed with Hawthorn

    Inside the Hawthorn. There is a TV visible in the far right corner of the bar.: Thomas B. Shea photoInside the Hawthorn. There is a TV visible in the far right corner of the bar.: Thomas B. Shea photo
    Kent Lacy writes:

    “My wife and I visited Hawthorn on Thursday (Dec. 27) at 7 p.m. to celebrate her birthday. I chose the restaurant because of the review in the Chronicle. It was not at all what I expected. Instead of the atmosphere of a dark, upscale restaurant with piano background music, the lighting was similar to most restaurants, there was a large bar with several patrons watching a TV with a football game on. I will say the food was very good, and the service was excellent. It just didn’t match the description in the Chronicle. I would not return because of the atmosphere.”

    Hawthorn Restaurant: 3200 Kirby, 713-523-3600

    A feast at Alicias Mexican Grille.: Craig H. Hartley photoA feast at Alicias Mexican Grille.: Craig H. Hartley photo
    Reader raves
    Norman Diaz writes:

    “I’d like to extend my compliments publicly to Alicia’s Mexican Grille and server Nelson for excellent service extended on our visit (on Dec. 23). My wife and I arrived in the company of a large and varied party of 16, ranging from great-grandparents down to small children. The service was flawless under those difficult conditions and with separate checks requested/issued (and with no mandatory gratuities included, as is sometimes the practice of some restaurants when serving large groups). No orders or checks were mixed up and the visit went very smoothly. On a busy Sunday afternoon, I thought, service-wise, that was impressive and was greatly appreciated.”

    Alicia's Mexican Grille: 26326 Northwest Freeway in Cypress, 281-304-1833

    Carol J. Rhodes writes:

    “My holiday guests, who live in an area where they do not get fresh seafood, and I went to eat at Denis’ Seafood (on Dec. 26). Each of us ordered a different entrée and declared our own was the best after sampling a bite of the others. In addition to the fabulous food, our waiter, Hunter, gave us impeccable service. Denis’ Seafood on Katy Freeway gets five gold stars in my book.”

    Denis' Seafood: 9777 Katy Freeway, 713-464-6900

    Comments

    Texmex01 Wed, 01/09/2013 - 1:36pm

    Why does an upscale restaurant have to be dark, I mean what are you doing at your table that you do not want other patrons watching????
    On second thought nevermind.......

    Rose Fri, 01/11/2013 - 10:49pm

    Not sure what you do at restaurants, Sir/Madam/Whatever, but appealing ambient lighting goes a long way toward creating a pleasing dining experience.

    Whitehouse Bo-B-Q Wed, 01/09/2013 - 1:59pm

    I don't understand Mr. Lacy's comment. He does not mention whether or not the piano was playing, so scratch that as a complaint, leaving only the lighting as an "issue". Service and food were both good, but apparently not dark enough? I prefer being able to see my food and read the menu versus asking for a flashlight, plus looking adoringly at my "date" in the light reflecting off her beautiful face would seem as a "plus" unless she was just ugly. TV playing football-my gosh, the Horror!! Not going back because of lighting seems quite petty.

    Thanks, I'll be looking forward to Hawthorn soon.

    cabbagerolls&coffee Wed, 01/09/2013 - 3:18pm

    At $30+ a plate he should have received what he expected. Especially at those prices.

    If he went to a Chili's and expected white linen I'd say he should have lowered his expectations.

    Sihaya Wed, 01/09/2013 - 6:32pm

    Well, I don't think Hawthorn's was promising a darkened, quiet piano bar and grill. Rather, the restaurant review description let the reader believe it was a darkened, quiet piano bar. The complaint isn't so much about the restaurant as the writing, I guess. That's really got nothing to do with the price.

    Frank J Wed, 01/09/2013 - 4:20pm

    He based all of his expectations on two sentences out of that one review? There is a picture in the review that shows the restaurant interior. I doesn't look all that dim to me. This person needs to understand that restaruant reviewers sometimes use hyperbole in there reviews. What is 'dark and supper clubby' to Alison Cook may not be the same to him.

    Rose Wed, 01/09/2013 - 11:02pm

    I disagree completely. "Dark and clubby" -- or, "supper-clubby and discreet," as Alison put it in her original review, does not make one think of a place where a game may be blaring in the background. I think that Mr. Diaz's expectations were completely reasonable based on the review. And, "restaurant reviewers sometimes use hyperbole in 'there' (sic) reviews"?? Well, no, they really don't. Not the good ones at least, and Alison is among the very best. No hyperbole in her work.

    Frank J Thu, 01/10/2013 - 8:27am

    I like Alison's reviews. But, when a reviewer uses words like 'a room out of Houston's past' and 'a dreamy bit of time travel', that is hyperbole. If you are searching for a special restaurant for a special occasion you need to do more research than reading one review.

    And, I really do know the difference between there, their, and they're...I must have had a brain spasm.

    Alison Cook Thu, 01/10/2013 - 10:52am

    Frank, I must disagree. I was so strongly reminded at Hawthorn of the dim, clubby restaurants from the 1970s (places like Courtlandt's and Rudy's) that I had to say so. I did feel that I had been transported back in time. Sure, that dates me, but I went to those places and Hawthorn rang those bells for me. I was just being honest.
    And although i went three times and spent part of my first visit waiting for my guest at the bar, I never even noticed the TV, probably because it was on mute. The lights were low, not bright--although happily, the tables themselves were spotlit so that you could see how pretty the food was without feeling a glare.
    I stand by my descriptions.

    Frank J Thu, 01/10/2013 - 12:41pm

    Alison: Like I said in my first comment, what you think is dim lighting may be too bright for the person who was complaining about the review. I am sure that it did remind you of 70's supper clubs but he obviously had a different impression. When you, or any reviewer, uses words like dim and clubby readers need to remember that those are soft words that may not agree with their definition. Unless you go in with a light meter, there is not much you can do.

    As I said, I enjoy your reviews...especially Burger Friday. Thanks

    Cathy Wed, 01/09/2013 - 5:54pm

    I think he expected no TVs. I really hate TVs in restaurants and they especially do not belong in an upscale restaurant.

    SterlingMinor Sun, 01/13/2013 - 1:14am

    Agreed on both counts. It is the TV, not the lights.
    At a "club" the bar with a TV and the nice dining space are in two separate rooms. Hawthorn needs to decide which it is, for one room is not likely to be successful as both a TV room and a $30 entree dining room.

    gmizzle Wed, 01/09/2013 - 11:58pm

    I love eating at Alicia's and have been there twice in the last two weeks. Great service, large groups both times, 10 & 12, but, there was a mandatory gratuity on our checks. I'd still go back, the food is awesome!

    FrankieSaysRelax Thu, 01/10/2013 - 9:11am

    I too love Alicia's. I live right by the newer one on Richmond Ave. I'm not going to claim it's the greatest Tex Mex food ever, but the service is fantastic, the food is good, and they give you all the fixins for fajitas :) Sour cream, cheese, guac, pico...and PLENTY of it. Plus they do peppers and onions, unlike some other places. It's nice not to have to ask for the "extras" for my fajitas, or have to pay $2 for a glob of sour cream (LOOKIN' AT YOU, CYCLONE ANAYA'S!).

    I'm sure the fajita purists will laugh at me, but I need my sour cream and cheese or I get grumpy.

    Texmex01 Thu, 01/10/2013 - 10:26am

    the TVs were in the BAR, not the dining area....

    intrepid Thu, 01/10/2013 - 12:05pm

    TexMex01, maybe you have been there and can shed some light on this point more than I can. Is that bar really separate from the dining area so that patrons in the dining area wanting to enjoy the food and company of their companion without distraction from the TV can do so?

    intrepid Thu, 01/10/2013 - 11:58am

    Why can't we just turn off the TV and have a nice meal? I haven't been to Hawthorne but I'm disappointed that they have a TV in the bar that is visible as they should know it could be distracting or annoying to diners in the main room. From the photos I can see how it might be overlooked easily, especially if it was muted. But having a TV on, even muted, could be distracting in a place like Hawthorn's. I would expect it to not be there in the first place. Do they feel their patron's must be distracted from the food they offer in order to have a satisfying experience in this "physically posh venue with a kitchen dispatching signature dishes such as Rose Ravioli for a Starter, Pekin Duck Breast as a Main Course Entrée and Ricotta Cheesecake as the Dessert."

    Jonlaz Thu, 01/10/2013 - 12:20pm

    I'm so sick of televisions in nicer restaurants, even in the bar. Why is a television even remotely necessary in a place like Hawthorn? A group of men drinking and watching a game are typically loud and disruptive, especially to diners expecting a fine dining experience, and not a sports bar.

    Heaven forbid grown men and women actually have conversations with each other rather than being glued to a screen. Even at a casual place, why have a television in the room? The big screen in the center of the tiny dining room at El Pollo Bravo on Memorial is almost comical, and a total distraction when dining there.

    If I want to watch television while eating, I can plop down on the couch at home. Dining out (not just eating out) should be a dining experience. I agree with Kent, I might reconsider going to Hawthorn for dinner now. Maybe I'll stop in to have beer and watch a game instead.

    Alison Cook Thu, 01/10/2013 - 12:26pm

    Honestly, I was there three times and never even noticed the TV--and I am generally attuned to my surroundings. That tells me it was not distracting on any of my visits. I understand that some people really object to the presence of a TV screen, but all I can tell you is that it did not impinge on my personal experience at Hawthorn in any way.

    intrepid Thu, 01/10/2013 - 3:12pm

    I completely understand and appreciate that the TV's were not distracting when you were there.

    It's also likely that on the readers visit the TV was turned up for the football game and the patrons watching it were also loud and distracting.

    I think most people who may have had a bad experience at Hawthorn's due to the distracting TV's just haven't expressed it in a public forum like this. So, it has probably been a more extensive complaint than just this one.

    Maybe the question really is if Hawthorn's is a fine dining restaurant or a "fine dining/sports bar"?

    If they really want to be perceived as the former perhaps it's time to turn off the TV and act like it,

    Syd Kearney Thu, 01/10/2013 - 12:39pm

    After further examination of the photo shoot, there are two televisions at the Hawthorn bar, one on each end.

    Barks Thu, 01/10/2013 - 2:13pm

    "an area where they do not get fresh seafood"? Where is there a place that fresh seafood is not available?

    Houstess Thu, 01/10/2013 - 4:27pm

    @Barks, apparently you've never been to the interior states? Or even El Paso? Not available, I assure you.

    I second Denis for freshness, consistency and service. We dine there a couple of times a month and have for years. Always the same great friendly service and top notch fish.

    Tequila Mockingbird Fri, 01/11/2013 - 12:52pm

    I always say if the interior is dark, it means the chef is hiding something. I like to see what I eat.

    Jenny_Tull Sat, 01/12/2013 - 5:15pm

    Oh my, Kent! All in a snit because the lighting didn't suit you? You admit you enjoyed the food and service. But go to the trouble to whine to the Chronicle over something as trivial as this? Why not leave if the atmosphere was not what you expected?

    rgvguy Sat, 01/12/2013 - 6:55pm

    If people are watching a football game at a bar, it's not upscale. Houston still has a long way to go.

    JoeA Sat, 01/12/2013 - 9:11pm

    You people don't have a life.

    knifeman Sat, 01/12/2013 - 10:48pm

    People in the Texas panhandle and Oklahoma do not have access to "fresh seafood".

    Owenr Jeff Mon, 01/14/2013 - 11:18am

    I want to thank all of you for your comments and appreciate your thoughts, but to clarify in regards to our TV's. They are only on if a guest asks for a special event or (not regular), but special sports show, otherwise they remain off. That is our policy. As for Alison's review, I think she hit it on the head with what we are trying to accomplish as a restaurant. A throw back to a 1950's or in her discriptions a 1970's supper club and piano bar. I've never met Allison so for her to get it as we intended says that our designers got it right.

    I thank you all and would love for your all to come out and try our place and see what you think and then post your opinions back here. If I am in the restaurant I would like to personally come by your table to say hi.

    Thanks again,

    Jeff

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