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Mango Tejano Ceviche at Yelapa Playa Mexicana.: James Nielsen
Yelapa Playa Mexicana, a Pacific coast-inspired Mexican restaurant that earned good reviews for its inventive fare, closed Tuesday, just shy of its two-year mark.
Opened in November 2009 with hotshot L.J. Wiley as chef, Yelapa (2303 Richmond) soon was known for its killer ceviches, bold flavor juxtapositions (Asian-kissed Mexican) and exuberant plating. Chronicle restaurant critic Alison Cook gave Yelapa a 2-star rating and had this to say about Wiley’s guacamole: “So is an amazing rendition of guacamole that is really more of a tortilla-based chilaquiles salad, its crunchy/soft chips interspersed with lush avocado, bits of persimmon and triangles of white-rimmed watermelon radish. Lime lifts it up, green herbs give it a nervous energy, a hint of cinnamon transports it to Neverneverland. I couldn't stop eating this dish, and marveling over its balance and ingenuity.”
But Wiley left a year after the restaurant opened and Brandon Fisch, its most recent chef, decamped in July (he now works at Xuco Xicana).
On Sunday, Yelapa served its last meals and announced to its staff today that it was closing, co-owner Chuck Bulnes said.
Yelapa co-owner Chuck Bulnes and original chef L.J. Wiley: Nick de la Torre
“It’s regrettable. We could never get over the hump,” he said. “It’s a hard pill to swallow.”
But Bulnes was comforted that Yelapa’s culinary flame burned bright and was a favorite among foodies. It just never caught on among a wider audience.
“I don’t think a lot of people got it. I think they were more inclined to go to Chuy’s – that’s what they were looking for in a Mexican restaurant,” he said. “We tried not to do that and it didn’t work. We wanted to bring something different to the table. I think we accomplished that. It obviously wasn’t enough.”
Ceviche with pineapple, litchi and jicama.: Ralph Smith
Another fusion place bites the dust.
Another example of what might appeal to foodies and food critics may not necessarily appeal to the rest of the dining public, who vote with their dollars. Chefs should stick to creating dishes that sell and leave the fusion cuisine for private dinner parties at home...
I completely agree. When the same thing happens at Xuco Xicana, I won't be surprised. A place that used to be full of customers now often sits empty. Since they changed we changed places to eat.
I am so sorry to read this. Yelapa was one of my favorite Mex restaurants in town. Food was excellent, drinks good and wait staff so friendly. I will miss you all and wish you the best.
It's not that people PREFER Chuy's it is a place the average individual/family can afford during these trying economic times. I loved the food at Yelapa; but, I really could not afford to go there but on VERY special occasions...... :(
Walking Distance from Little Pappasito's, Ninfa's and Aztecas Bar & Grill. LOL. Surprised they stayed open that long with all that competition. What were they thinking?
It was awesome at first but then after Wiley left it just was not the same...last time I was there it was so greasy and I was so disappointing. I thought it had such potential when it started out!
This place used to be the Galleon, then Gentry's and now this place is going out of business. Location curse?
I loved the food and ambiance, but the parking situation was horrible. If I'm inviting friends who live in the suburbs for dinner (which I did a couple of times in the case of Yelapa), I don't want them to have to spend 15 minutes trying to find parking, and then after, ultimately, parking on a residential street behind the restaurant, have to trek the uneven pavement in heels to have what is supposed to be a stress-busting dinner with friends. Plus, the service was hit or miss. If it were only about food, this place would have been a keeper.
Real friends in downtown have their guest from the burbs meet them at their house, and then they ride togehter.
Not always an option. Some real friends have very real, hectic lives. But thanks!
This is River Oaks Houston. Unfortunately, give them easy cheese melted in a bowl or plain avocado mashed and call it queso and guacamole. They love that crap. I'm sorry a coastal Mexican concept could make the cut. Barbacoa and ghost chili tacos and a variety of ceviches will be missed. Houston, you are less of a culinary destination without Yelapa.
You are 100% correct !! I refuse to eat at one of the million Mex restaurants in Houston that serve the "usual crap" ..
I completely agree! :(
I'll miss the food. I won't miss the service. They should have gone down to Little Pappasitos and studied the concept of service. As far as Chuys is concerned, that's like comparing Whataburger with Lankford Grocery. They both sell burgers & fries, but the comparison ends there.
You are soooo right, Anon. Whataburger is much, much better than the burgers served at Lankford. One dried out puck there was enough for me.
Bottled sauces and packaged tortillas seemed to be the norm here. First time was just bad and I wouldn't return as a result. This seemed to be popular with people who didn't know what authentic food was.
I think it was a location thing. Hard to spot and/or turn into from Richmond and then having to face that dreadful pitted unpaved parking lot.
Except for the part where Blue Fish House and Hobbit Cafe next door do just fine....
We went once with a group. The food was interesting, but there are so many interesting places to go in Houston. The deal killer though was the service. We had a very overbearing waiter--a big guy who kept insisting that we order particular items. Think "Himalaya".
Yelapa was our favorite place for creative Mex cuisine .. Obviously too many in Houston flock to greasy gravy-laden enchiladas and greasy bowls of cheese ( queso ) .. But a place serving habanero infused tequila and fresh fish and ceviches cant make it , just shameful !
Sauce out of a bottle isn't considered fresh.
I prefer coastal Mexican to Tex-Mex, but I didn't like Yelapa. Why? Snotty service and terrible inconsistency in the food. Some dishes were great, others were terrible. Silly shortcuts like store-bought tortillas. And more than once, I felt cheated by the amount of actual fish in the seafood dishes.
Regardless of how "interesting" your food might be, you need to be nice to your customers and serve up consistently good food. And if you don't, please don't blame your patrons' unsophisticated tastes for your demise.
Location and food bad, service worse. Good riddance!
Sorry this place was not authentic nor Tex-Mex and the comparison to Chuy's or Tex-Mex is not a valid one. The food was just not good. Period. And closing is a result of that.
I went once and never went back. It took the wait staff 20 minutes to even come to our table once we sat down. After hiking through the parking lot, having no service, and then getting mediocre food at a high price, why bother?
The first two times I visited, Yelapa served excellent wine, unique and fresh guacamole, and tasty ceviche. Two weeks ago during my last visit, the wine was still good but the guac was presented in an unappetizing manner and the ceviche was a bit fishy. I REALLY liked the atmosphere, the menu, and the service overall. I liked being able to be seated promptly on a Friday evening for a fun meal. I am so glad I witnessed Yelapa at its best, and I would love to see a wonderful ceviche bar in the area. Best wishes to the owner, chef, and staff.
Reading all these comments, it seems that the system works. Lousy service, overpriced food and you are out of business.
Bueno, adios
In 2009 the BEST and creative Mexican food in the city without a doubt.
I really liked this place. Great quisadillas and the best rice and beans ive ever had.
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