On a semi-rural stretch of Gessner, turn in at the sign of the pig in a jaunty blue neckerchief for Adrian Handsborough’s serious pecan-and-oaked smoked meats. Satellite items are done in a sweet East Texas style here, from the sauce to the mashed-potato salad, horseradish-spiked slaw and itty-bitty baked beans. More rewardingly savory are Handsborough’s sunny-natured hefty ribs, smoked to the bone; or his melting fatty-side brisket; or the zippy pork links, rough-textured and red peppery, with a snap to their casings. The prim setting was hand-fashioned from the grocery store once run by Handsborough’s mother, the Virgie invoked by the name.
-- Alison Cook